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Discussion Starter #1
I have a push button start, but I still need to turn my ignition switch on( no key needed) to power on the fuel pump,fan and so on. I want to put my ignition on a toggle switch instead. I don't want to remove the key switch. I just want to cut the wires and hook it up to the toggle. Does any one know what color the stock cable would be or were I can find them? I need help!! It's a 1970 nova

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
This is the new dash. I bought a 1978 dash bezel from craigslist then cut all the panels out. Then took abs plastic cut and plastic welded them in. couple new gauges and toggles and 4 hours of wiring it all up! I'm in the plating biz. And I run the plastic chrome plating. Plastic such as abs can be plated and is light weight,strong, won't weaken,rust or corrode! It's blooming on car and motorcycle industries!

I built this dash without guges for under 60$ bucks
Toggles from amazon ( buy 5pcs packs for cheap)$20
Bezel used Craigslist 10$
abs plastic mcmastercarr 15$


Any way the toggle on the left next to the push start is the one I want to hook as my ign. On/off. Just need to know if I can cut 1 wire put a switch on it or if I need a 4 way toggle and hook every thing up to it like the key switch?
 

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1974 Nova, 1977 Nova
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Just need to know if I can cut 1 wire put a switch on it or if I need a 4 way toggle and hook every thing up to it like the key switch?
The factory ignition switch has two feed wires (12ga red from the battery) and about 4 wires that it powers up at various different positions.

There's a 12ga purple wire that is powered only in the "start" position to activate the starter solenoid ... sounds like you already have this one hooked up to your push button starter switch.

There's a 12ga pink wire that is powered up in both the "start" and "run" positions. This one feeds power to the coil/ignition as well as the "GAUGES" and "B/U & DIR SIG" fuses in the fusebox.

Then there's a 12ga brown wire that is powered in the "run" and "acc" positions. This feeds power to the "RADIO" and "WIPER" fuses in the fusebox.

And there's a 12ga orange wire that is powered in the "run" position and feeds power to the "A/C HTR" fuse.

Connecting all of those wires to a single pole toggle switch would probably overload the switch unless it has some really heavy duty contacts. A multi-pole switch with a set of contacts for each circuit would be better. Or you could add some relays and use the switch to control them.

Finally, the factory ignition switch has a set of grounding contacts that are wired up to the "TEMP" light (green wire) to serve as a "bulb check" circuit. You can just ignore that wire unless you'll also be using a warning light in addition to your temp gauge.
 
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