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Discussion Starter #1
I think I have reached the point of taking the next leap in the suspension department.

Currently Ive had a best of 11.41 @ 118.91 mph with a 1.63 60' running 26x10.5x15 M/T ET Streets stock mono-leafs, Slide-a-links, and Calvert drag shocks around, rear 'rancho' style shocks set at "3". I think there is more to be gained with a little more adjust-ability and better springs.

The question now is do I back-half and add a four-link and coil-overs, or do I mini-tub, move the springs in, and go with the Caltracs with the Split-mono leaf springs? I know both are proven systems and each would work, just curious what your guys' thoughts are, and what has worked best for you.

This is mainly a bracket car, occasionally taken out to the cruise to remind people that neon's aren't real muscle cars even if they come factory with a turbo...

Goal is to eventually go around 10.50's

Thanks for your input and suggestions.
 

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My Wagon ran 10.10 E.T. with factory mono-leaf springs,shocks with clamp on traction bars on 29" x 9" Hooiser Slicks.... factory front suspension with Moroso Coil Springs and 90-10 shocks......



I don't know anyone that is using those Slide-a-link setups and I'm sure there is a reason that they are not.

If I were to start all over today, I'd use John Calvert's setup.
 

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I bet you are no where close to maxing out your set up. If you start to have issues, focus on the front end too. No sense cutting a good car up.

I have cal tracs, split monos and ranchos out back with a 255/60-15 et street radial and have been low 1.5's. Want to say even eeked out a 1.49 or so once. And it drives nice on the street too. My vote is stay away from the pro street stuff and keep a small tire. But I always go against the grain. Good luck and have fun.
 

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There is a reason real fast cars all have 4 links if the rules allow and not leaf springs and traction bars. Can leafs and traction bars work and hook a car up, sure but you see any T/S or P/S cars not running 4 links? Look around the drag strip you plan to race at and see what the guys that win races in the class you are running are using then decide what you like or want. JMHO
 

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I bet you are no where close to maxing out your set up. If you start to have issues, focus on the front end too. No sense cutting a good car up.

I have cal tracs, split monos and ranchos out back with a 255/60-15 et street radial and have been low 1.5's. Want to say even eeked out a 1.49 or so once. And it drives nice on the street too. My vote is stay away from the pro street stuff and keep a small tire. But I always go against the grain. Good luck and have fun.
X2 everybody turns to the back of the car,be sure the front end is working 1st.What springs/bushings/shock setting and how much travel in the front? What kind of frame connectors are you using bolt in or weld. How much time have you spent at T+T nights trying different settings.

I run my rear rancho's R side 7 clicks L 5 stock multi leafs with slide a links (got em cheap) and they work for me others laugh at them been low 1.5 60'

No need to cut the car up.
 

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whats ur current set up? motor,trans,,trans break? rear end gear

406 558hp on pump gas,cast heads..turbo 3 speed with a break and i leave at 3000..3.73 tail gear eaton posi unit on slapper bars..best et is a 11.47 @ 117 with a 1.58 60'..front suspension only CE 90/10 shocks rear CE 70/30 on a 26x8 slick...
however i switched to all caltrac upgraded the rear end to a 4.11&spool..upfront i installed global west upper and lowers..trick springs and caltrac 90/10s.. and my best is a 1.59 and 11.48 with the switch..also on a 28x9 slick now..im not all excited over the whole switch i did..feel like taking it off and goin back to my ol faithfuls(slapper bars)...if i could redue my set up id go mini tub but its 100% street car
 

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whats ur current set up? motor,trans,,trans break? rear end gear

406 558hp on pump gas,cast heads..turbo 3 speed with a break and i leave at 3000..3.73 tail gear eaton posi unit on slapper bars..best et is a 11.47 @ 117 with a 1.58 60'..front suspension only CE 90/10 shocks rear CE 70/30 on a 26x8 slick...
however i switched to all caltrac upgraded the rear end to a 4.11&spool..upfront i installed global west upper and lowers..trick springs and caltrac 90/10s.. and my best is a 1.59 and 11.48 with the switch..also on a 28x9 slick now..im not all excited over the whole switch i did..feel like taking it off and goin back to my ol faithfuls(slapper bars)...if i could redue my set up id go mini tub but its 100% street car
Sounds like a good setup but I think you're leaving a lot on the table somewhere. If you truly have 558hp I would think you should be in the high 10's @ 120+ mph or so. My 355 with camel humps is running real close to what you are and I'm no where near 550hp. Not trying to rain on your parade but I think your combo has a lot more in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all your input everyone.

I think I have decided to go with the Split Mono's and Cal-tracs, just less stuff I would have to buy between the frame rails, 4-link kit, and coil overs... This way I can just use everything I have and replace the springs and slide-a-links.

Just for information though, here is kind of a general list of my setup... if anyone has any thoughts or suggestions feel free to comment.

I am running my 383 at about 10.4:1 compression, on 93 octane pump gas with Iron World Motown 220cc 2.08/1.60 heads port matched to a Super Victor intake with a 950 Pro-Systems carb flowing about 840cfm... after the build I learned the cam is a solid lift Crower custom circle track grind with a lazy exhaust duration, don't remember the specific numbers but its something like .677 lift and 250/280 dur. with 1.7/1.8 ratio shaft mount rockers. Headers are Hooker 1 3/4, with 3" pipes mated to Dynamax Race Bullet straight through mufflers, I'm running a TH350 with a 4500 stall and 3.73 gears with slide-a-links and calvert shocks all around on 26X10.5x15 MT ET Streets

So this off-season I think I am planning on going with a 4.30 gear with 28" tall tires (thinking about MT Drag Radials this time), Caltracs and split mono springs, and also changing the cam to bring the power band down to meet the rest of my setup. Oh, and maybe a transbrake :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
X2 everybody turns to the back of the car,be sure the front end is working 1st.What springs/bushings/shock setting and how much travel in the front? What kind of frame connectors are you using bolt in or weld. How much time have you spent at T+T nights trying different settings.
I am running the lightest Moroso trick front spring I could find, with Calvert 90/10 front shocks. I have about 5 1/2" front suspension travel, Stock A-Arms, with polyurethane bushings. They are Competition engineering bolt in frame connectors, but i have since welded and boxed them in.

I did a bunch of testing when I first got the new shocks, and tried them at each setting, seemed to be that "3" worked the best, but there was minimal difference in any of the settings (Coulda been track conditions). All of these tests were back when I was running between 13-15 psi in the rear MT ET Streets.

Last time I was out, my tires are pretty much toast, especially on the outsides of the tread patch, so I pumped them up to 18 psi, before the burnout, just to get me through the rest of the weekend and try to utilize a bit more of the center of the contact patch... wouldn't ya know I picked up from a 1.74 60' to a 1.64 and broke out by about .07 and ran the second quickest pass I have ever made (11.43 @ 118.59) in 96 degrees around 5,500 ft. the quickest was 11.41 @ 118.91 back in April, about 74 degrees.

Long story short, I don't know how effective my testing was being as more air pressure seemed to help, and I haven't tested since then with the higher pressure.
 

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Sounds like a good setup but I think you're leaving a lot on the table somewhere. If you truly have 558hp I would think you should be in the high 10's @ 120+ mph or so. My 355 with camel humps is running real close to what you are and I'm no where near 550hp. Not trying to rain on your parade but I think your combo has a lot more in it.
ive tried alot..jets.different carsb..rpm launch settings and even shift points..im sure the elevation isnt helpin [email protected] give or take..if anything id b happy with 11-teens. ya guys here with the 355 combos r sure kickin ***..very awesome et numbers on tht cubic inch
 

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I think I have reached the point of taking the next leap in the suspension department.

Currently Ive had a best of 11.41 @ 118.91 mph with a 1.63 60' running 26x10.5x15 M/T ET Streets stock mono-leafs, Slide-a-links, and Calvert drag shocks around, rear 'rancho' style shocks set at "3". I think there is more to be gained with a little more adjust-ability and better springs.

The question now is do I back-half and add a four-link and coil-overs, or do I mini-tub, move the springs in, and go with the Caltracs with the Split-mono leaf springs? I know both are proven systems and each would work, just curious what your guys' thoughts are, and what has worked best for you.

This is mainly a bracket car, occasionally taken out to the cruise to remind people that neon's aren't real muscle cars even if they come factory with a turbo...

Goal is to eventually go around 10.50's

Thanks for your input and suggestions.
I think you have a proven set up, that may work fine at 10.50. the only thing I would probably change is the leafs. Stock mono's cant really handle the torque of a 10 sec car without the help from a good double ajustable shock, to control the wrap up. Your rancho's will work great with the split leaf, into the 9's.
 
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