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Discussion Starter #1
im getting ready to install my subframe connectors since im going to be in that general area aka leaf spring bushings and subframe bushings any tips on what would be the easiest safest way to do this they are bolt on thanks for any feedback
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah I dont plan on using those crappy nuts im thinking of another way because I really dont feel comfortable using them they seem so unsafe any ideas
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah I know my motor is putting about the same out its just hard trust those little guys they seem so flimsy would you know the torque spec on those?
 

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dont tighten anything up until all four are on the ground(level). and take your time putting those clips in cause if they are crooked at all the new longer bolts will just push the top part of the clip up instead of threading through it and you will have to undo everything and drop the frame connectors and readjust the clips. the new longer bolts dont have the first few threads shaved off like the stock ones. that lil bit of unthreaded bolt helps guide the bolt through the clip.

I never welded mine and kept it strictly bolt on for ease of taking things back apart later. most suggest to have them welded tho. You mentioned new bushings, its good to do all the bushings in the front clip at this time.

Take a look at the front leaf spring bushing bolt and make sure you will be able to get the bolt out once the frame connectors are in. The very corner of the frame connector needs to be cut out for this to happen in most cases depending on the style of frame connectors you choose.

There is a couple good write ups on here showing good pics of everything I just mentioned. You will be very pleased with the way they stiffen everything up. I had to readjust the emergency brake so take that into consideration too. Good luck and keep up posted.
 

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another thing is when installing the competition engineering or summit style frame connectors, you cant use the locking style body bushings where the front of the frame connector goes into the rear of the front clip. I used the poly ones from energy suspension or whatever. But some of the high dollar body bushings have a locking style set up that the frame connector wont work with cause it has to be sandwiched in between. Just so you know..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hmm so I can't reuse the original bolts? My subframe connectors are are bolt on between the frame and that front leaf spring mounts and the body mounts im using are the detroit speed solid body mounts how come everything has to be tightened once ground level?
 

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if you tighten everything up in the air, it "could" bind when you put it on the ground, you want to make things tight, but torque it all when its on the ground.

it wouldnt be a good idea to use original bolts, the metal likely breaks off the nuts and bolts when you remove them, that, and new ones are much easier to thread, and they look better too.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
if you tighten everything up in the air, it "could" bind when you put it on the ground, you want to make things tight, but torque it all when its on the ground.

it wouldnt be a good idea to use original bolts, the metal likely breaks off the nuts and bolts when you remove them, that, and new ones are much easier to thread, and they look better too.
hmm any good websites where i could find new bolts??? i found the bracket nut on classic industries but no bolts :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
my old bolts seem to be good they came out fairly easy but some of the nuts barely made out out but didnt mess up the bolts on any of them
 

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72 Frame off, bare metal resto-mod. 383, TH350, Eaton Posi, Complete new suspension, disk brakes
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Treat your new assembly like you are doing an engine. I cleaned the threads on my captured body bolts by chasing the threads with a small amount of antisieze grease on a tap. I cleaned the bolts the same way after using the wire wheel on them. I wanted the bolts to go in with my fingers until they started compressing the parts. That way there was no added resistance when I torqued the bolts.
As to why on the ground. The bodies on these flex quite a bit when they are up in the air even if it looks like you have it supported in a same as on the ground position. You can really throw the door to fender fitment off.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Treat your new assembly like you are doing an engine. I cleaned the threads on my captured body bolts by chasing the threads with a small amount of antisieze grease on a tap. I cleaned the bolts the same way after using the wire wheel on them. I wanted the bolts to go in with my fingers until they started compressing the parts. That way there was no added resistance when I torqued the bolts.
As to why on the ground. The bodies on these flex quite a bit when they are up in the air even if it looks like you have it supported in a same as on the ground position. You can really throw the door to fender fitment off.
so i would be ok using the old bolts??? they seem ok not stripped no metal stuck on them what is the torque specs on those bolts???
 

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try to search for a nut and bolt shop in your town, there are places that specialize in fasteners all over the place. the problem with old bots or nuts, is the steel can sometimes look good, but the metal wears out over time, and depending on the location and type of abuse they take, some wear more than others.

if you absolutely cant get replacements or dont have time, then use them, but try to look for replacements as a priority.

i cant say i know any sites or anything, i have never checked really, i just happen to live near a store called edmonton nut and bolt, and now im going with all new hardware.
 

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you could use them if they fit but I wouldnt. adding the extra metal sandwiched between the leaf spring mount and the frame rail will cause your bolts to just barely bite the clip. My directions even explained to do so. I bought grade 8 hardware from lowes. You just need a 1 1/4" 3/8 bolt instead of the 1"? original. You can research further tho if your concerned. always torque any suspension stuff with the car on level ground. You also might want to make sure everything is squared up while your under there.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
try to search for a nut and bolt shop in your town, there are places that specialize in fasteners all over the place. the problem with old bots or nuts, is the steel can sometimes look good, but the metal wears out over time, and depending on the location and type of abuse they take, some wear more than others.

if you absolutely cant get replacements or dont have time, then use them, but try to look for replacements as a priority.

i cant say i know any sites or anything, i have never checked really, i just happen to live near a store called edmonton nut and bolt, and now im going with all new hardware.
yeah i dont like the idea of using old hardware either well maybe i can make something else work it just makes it hard since you cant fit any wrenches in that little pocket otherwise i would use a grade 8 nut and bolt :confused: aah hate space limitations!! there is somewhere here who wells nuts and bolts we have fast n all how ever its spelled ever heard of?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
you could use them if they fit but I wouldnt. adding the extra metal sandwiched between the leaf spring mount and the frame rail will cause your bolts to just barely bite the clip. My directions even explained to do so. I bought grade 8 hardware from lowes. You just need a 1 1/4" 3/8 bolt instead of the 1"? original. You can research further tho if your concerned. always torque any suspension stuff with the car on level ground. You also might want to make sure everything is squared up while your under there.
so the worst part would be using old hardware right? not the subframe connectors that go between the frame and leaf spring mount correct? im probably just gonna find another way to keep a nut in that little pocket and use some new grade 8 hardware with a longer bolt better idea???
 

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what you want to do would work well.

im a bit of a hypocrite as i am using old hardware myself. it seems likeyou are at the same stage as me; making it work.

once you get it working, then go into it and upgrade some things as time allows.

im going to do as much as i can right the first time. but come summer, i am going to have mine running. time and time again everyone tells me their worst decision was NOT driving it when they could. to me, if its going to be a 10 year project. you might as well enjoy it if possible then and there.



anyways. those bolts are connecting the wheels to the body, some may argue the wheels turn, push the diff, push the drive shaft, which forces the engine and tranny forward, which are bolted to the frame/car.

but the most direct route from wheel to your body is through those bolts that hold the pocket into the frame rails, so they do see some strain and stress.

but then again, i have seen some people slap in a motor and run cars harder than hell before going in for a full resto. to me, its a bit of a roulette, your first drive will always be the scariest after a repair/resto no matter what you do.
 
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