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Discussion Starter #1
Hello to all .Im new to the site and also to the nova and have always liked the gassers so its my turn to build one.but have a lot of Qs .how wide an axle do you use?.straight or dropped,also can the stock steering box be used.
Ive just finished the new engine. And was wondering if my cross ram and a magneto is correct for this type of build .IM ready to purchase the axle setup
but will hold off till I hear from some of ya that have done this swap.
Thank you Walt

Ps how do ya post pictures.
 

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This is the axle I'm using its from speedway motors its 46" kingpin to king pin, uses 49-54 Chvey car spindles.

They use Mustang II brakes.
As far as a cross ram that would be cool. Check out www.gassermaddness.com They have alot of info on gassers
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thank you for the leads does your sit really high.I had looked at some threads
on here were they sead it was to high.Thanks Walt
 

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I haven't bought mine yet(got to get the wifey 62 on the road first) if it sits to high I'll have a custom set of leaves made. We haveqa spring shop nto far from here. You should be able to do a "spring under axle" that would lower the axle about three to four inches, or romove a leaf and re assimble the leaf pack. There is alot you can do.
PS Gasser Wars is some mandatory reading, wife bought it for me for Valentines day, kinda spendy but real good reading.
 

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If you were worried, use a 2 or 4 inch drop tube,if you want it higher,then you can use blocks later after install.
 

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1963Due100, sounds like you've researched this pretty good, how much does straight axle conversion cost, I'm curious on the total price. Got a '64 out back that would be a good candidate one day.
 

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Axle with springs and hardware $409.95
Spindles and brakes 9 1/4" chevy spindles $499.95
11" ford Spindles and brakes $599.99
Then there is steering and a front clip. I'm using a set of stock framerails and steering box. Will be using Heim jointed tie rods. Yeah it aint cheep but what is on theese things (still cheeper and MUCH cooler than any mustang II front end).
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
46" or 48" straight axle

1963Duce100,I was checking into the axle setup today and mas racing seem to have a better price on the complete set up $850.00 and $50.00 to ship just need to find out how wide to get either 46 or 48 inch.
 

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i'm havin' a hard time finding a link for 'em... found this, dunno if it's the right MAS racing...

MAS Racing Products
2288 University Ave.
St. Paul, MN 55114
651-644-6811

i found lotsa links related to MAS, HotRod links, they all had links for MAS Racing, but when clicked, they all showed just the address shown above...


maybe a phone call ???


i found one MAS Racing that builds model parts... RRRRR wrong answer ;)
all the others i checked related to the above addy :D





Johnny (tryin' ta help get ya GASSED) :cool: :cool: :cool: :D
 

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Discussion Starter #11
mas racing

I had talked with them on the phone .came across their add in street rodder
mag .at this time no web site.will be ordering mine tonight after work.

MAS Racing Products
2288 University Ave.
St. Paul, MN 55114
651-644-6811
 

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I've had a 66 straight axle car for 26 years and started the process of redoing the car five years ago. Bought a MAS axle first and ran into problems with king pin fit (too tight) and deflection (with the weight of the car-motor on it). Then bought the speedway kit. Same problem with deflection (about 3/4 to a degree of camber) This is with a big block with all aluminum parts so an all-iron small block wouldn't be much different. Then had a local firm make two more that they couldn't get the camber right and had the same problem with deflection (all these axles are 2" mild steel 1/4" wall steel) I also wanted the axles wider by 4" (the widest Speedway/MAS/Bell/ect makes is 48") because that makes the track comparable to the stock Chevy II width. Yes, I could have compensated for the deflection by having the builder alter the camber setting but the point was to not HAVE the flex.

So then I bought the Tom Medlock-Bill Thomas copy of the instant funny car kit. Tom sleeves the inside of his axles with another piece of stock, so that took care of the flex. But I was using the Speedway forged chevy spindles and Medlock only uses Ford ends, so there went about 600.00 out the window. The better part of that is there is a much broader (and lighter) brake-spindle selection for the Ford spindles than the Chevy. I sent the axle back to Medlock and he made me one wider, But I had him leave the pin ends tight so I could finish them myself. Most finish the pin ends too loose, and I didn't want the pins to oblong the ends (it happened to my first axle. I ended up not using anything else from Medlocks kit because I wanted to use my stock frame, and I didn't like his springs or mounts. Most of these kits use short boat/RV three-leaf trailer springs and you want to stay away from those. The six-leaf Speedway ones are automotive application, and the best by far.

The Speedway axle-to-spring mounts were the best as they were the best constructed (more area to weld to) and you could use U-bolts that clamped the spring, instead of the tube. Also, nobody offered any lower shock mounts that were little more that two tabs. I found a one-piece mount from an air ride company that resembled the shock mounts on a 70-80s 4WD Dana front axle. Looks much cleaner as well as being stronger. The optimum setup is to have the shackles in the rear (better geometry) but I didn't like the angle they would be on as the frame takes a downward turn at that spot, and I've seen them break from coming down hard mounted that way.

Using the stock steering box (what I did) cuts down on fabrication, and steers just fine. use a power-steering pitman arm so you can bolt thur it. it's not a good idea to bend the arm as it's cast. Cross steering is more prone to bump-steer so run the drag link to the drivers side. Rule of thunb is to keep the drag link level with the car sitting on the ground. Drag links on angles promote bump steer (see any 4WD sites about this). They also sell small rubber dust covers for the heim ends to keep the dirt out.

I also just found a motor motor-crossmember that will work with a straight axle setup. Most all motor mount-crossmember mount directly under the center of the engine mount. This won't work as it's going to interfere with the upwards travel of the axle. Chassis Engineering (street rod) makes a tubular mount that offsets the engine mounts to the rear three inches. This facilitates eliminating the strut rod crossmember and makes a stronger motor mount. I looked forever for one of these (a defunct company called PSI used to make this type of setup) and it looks period-correct. If you need more info or links, let me know.
 

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Straight axle

Good stuff here!
mIKE
 

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hey that camber isnt a problem if the front tires are off the ground for most of the run right???

Tony (envious of u straight axle guys...)
 

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straightaxlenova said:
Check out the major camber in this axle after I severely abused it. It was even worse by the end of the season. I've had much better luck with a new axle I built out of 4130.

My old axle was worse than that if you can believe it. It was a thin 1 3/4 CAE sprint car kit.
 

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So then I bought the Tom Medlock-Bill Thomas copy of the instant funny car kit
How many months(years) did you have to wait for Medlock to make your axle? Steve stole the axle from the Wilshire Shaker to use on his Fairmont altered wheelbase car, and called Medlock(who did the Nova piece) to build him another one--it took forever!! Medlock adds a piece of flat stock forced thru the tube(kinda like a torsion bar) to add strength. In talking to Pete Eastwood(who built hundreds of axles from 2" O.D. 1/4" wall mild for Blairs back in the day) he doesn't see any need for it. And the price that Tom charges for his stuff should include something a little better than $49. trailer springs that were never meant to hold up a car. The bushings in the new car lasted a couple weeks! For what Medlock charged Steve, I could build a new car!


Same axle--different car.
 

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bowtie0069 said:
How many months(years) did you have to wait for Medlock to make your axle? Steve stole the axle from the Wilshire Shaker to use on his Fairmont altered wheelbase car, and called Medlock(who did the Nova piece) to build him another one--it took forever!! Medlock adds a piece of flat stock forced thru the tube(kinda like a torsion bar) to add strength. In talking to Pete Eastwood(who built hundreds of axles from 2" O.D. 1/4" wall mild for Blairs back in the day) he doesn't see any need for it. And the price that Tom charges for his stuff should include something a little better than $49. trailer springs that were never meant to hold up a car. The bushings in the new car lasted a couple weeks! For what Medlock charged Steve, I could build a new car!
The kit came in a week. when I sent him the axle back to swap it for the wider one he made me it took about a month. He was timely with me, but who knows? As I stated before, Thats all I used from the kit. I've seen enough parts fail to know what I don't want.
 
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