[bigbadbp7]

ok hes my story
Went to the track was all pumped up hoping to make some good times. Well the year before i ran a 16.093 @ 83 mph. This was all stock so i added a 4 barrell 600 cfm edelbrock and 4.10 gears and a posi.
The second run i do a 15.9! @ 83.4 mph what the heck! I though at least low 15s.
Well so the 3 run i pull up to stage and thier was problems with the light so I had to sit in the lane. So everythings good to get the novas ready to go and i get a good reaction time of .035 and then the engine cuts out about 4 feet after i luanch.
So I started her up and made my 38 second pass.
so i figured it was becuase we sat their to long so next run.. this is hot lapping no cool down time
and the same thing!
Now i wait for a good 20 minutes to let the nova cool. So i luanch good but its still stuttering and then it gets going then starts stuttering at the higher rpms. Whats going on! its never done this to me on the street and I hot rod the heck out of it.
Vapor lock?
im getting enough fuel its a stock 72 350!
timing is at 8* andi have an HEI

 

[jlowery78]

Where is your timing set at? You probably don't want to hear this but I would take that edelbrock carb off and run a 650 holley vac secondary carb. When was the last time it was tuned up? wires, plugs, distributor cap. Is the engine stock, you running the factory heads and cam, intake?

 

[jlowery78]

Sorry I did'n see the first time on your post where your timing is at 8 degrees. Have you tried setting it a little higher like at 10 or 12? Try that and see how it runs.

 

[bigbadbp7]

ya everyone on here is telling me to get a Holley well all in time. Well ill barrow a timing light and bump the timing but still doesnt explian why my car is dying all of a sudden its never do it and it was acting wierd at higher rpms. it just makes me mad when i running good then go to the track and it craps out but thats racing. I really thought i would be low 15s i mean i should be

 

[Denis the Menace]

How is it running now that you are not at the track? Is there an altitude change from where you thrash on the street to the track? Fuel filter, fuel pump, ignition components?

 

[chevyIIheavy]

stock heis are only good for about 4500 rpms they start popin after that might need to up grade the ignition to solve that also check your plugs to after a pass. if there brown there good if they are white its to lean may need to change metering rods. you say the car stutters when you nail it im assuming your coming of idle and then matting it. yeah them eddys have a pushrod sorta thing that i dont like some guys can get them to work but this may be your problem it may be binding or is it a bog ( does the motor bog down ) next time you get a time slip check your mile n hour & e.t.this will help tune your car if you make changes see what the car does only do one change at a time though or you will never know. one other thing too is the rear gear is a little to high for your stock motor its trying to keep it in the upper rpms and the distributar cant hang.

 

[02dmaxx]

Sounds like a fuel problem to me. Is the filter in good condition? Float set? Electric or manual pump? Do you use a fuel pressure regulator?My old '76 would vapor lock on hot days idling w/ a Holley "Blue" electric pump,never did find a remedy for it.

 

[davidr5610]

vacuum leak? Did you re-torque the intake bolts? When i first changed from a two barrel carb to a 4 barrel amnd intake, I went from 15.77 (stock) to 16.2, and slower. Re-torqued the intake bolts and 15.2s.

 

[Denis the Menace]

stock heis are only good for about 4500 rpms

That is not true! Easely good to 6K if in good STOCK condition.:yes:

 

[chevyIIheavy]

depending on the moduele ,cap,rotor yes some are capable of 6000 rpms in stock trim i just said 4500 cause some of them start loosing spark at this rpm i didnt mean to post incorrect info. all aftermarket hei distributers like msd, petronix, accell, mallory, gm perf parts, use very good modules ,cap, and rotors. the new street fire hei by msd is basically an stock hei with msd parts in it just like an upgrade you would do to your hei at home and its good to 8500 rpms or so. oh one more thing about heis check to make sure your mechanical advance is still working ive had 2 an msd and petronix freeze up on me some how condensation builds up in the caps and we all know what that does to metal :yes:

 

[bigbadbp7]

How is it running now that you are not at the track? Is there an altitude change from where you thrash on the street to the track? Fuel filter, fuel pump, ignition components?

It runs fine nope no altitude change. I have a new fuel pump works good its mechanical its like a cheepienothing specail. Its just the first 2 runs were decent then it started crapping out. Ya I know HEI isnt key but im only 18 and make like 600 bucks a month so im very limited becuase i have some bills. It was just running warmer i it just started choking out.

davidr5610

Yup all those babys are tourqed.

chevyIIheavy

Yes it is high for my stock motor but im going tru the trap at 5grand I only have a 215/70/14 tire on thier And I dont spin

 

[davidr5610]

I re-read the original post, and now it sounds to me like the problem I was having a couple years ago. It went away with a new distributor. Although it was an upgrade from points to hei, a new distributor fixed it. Might be the same deal with your car.

 

[bigbadbp7]

I re-read the original post, and now it sounds to me like the problem I was having a couple years ago. It went away with a new distributor. Although it was an upgrade from points to hei, a new distributor fixed it. Might be the same deal with your car.

I think it may have to do with it hitting my firewall

 

[71SS454]

If your distributor is hitting the firewall, you may have broken the cap. This could ruin a rotor as well.You could have broken the posts for the plug wires off when teh engine twists int eh motor mounts. Check them and "clearance" the firewall for that HEI.

 

[Manford]

rather than checking the initial timing, check the total timing, should be around 36 degrees.

 

[bigbadbp7]

rather than checking the initial timing, check the total timing, should be around 36 degrees.

if i do 36 for total my base is at 17!

 

[bigbadbp7]

If your distributor is hitting the firewall, you may have broken the cap. This could ruin a rotor as well.You could have broken the posts for the plug wires off when teh engine twists int eh motor mounts. Check them and "clearance" the firewall for that HEI.

I definetly doo need more clearnce and a new motor mount. but doenst expleian my motor from cutting out durning luanch on the street or any other time it wouldnt of done it only when i wanted to run and go fast

 

[novaracer1]

That is not true! Easely good to 6K if in good STOCK condition.:yes:

I would have to agree. I ran a stock ignition for the last 10 yrs or so and I shift at 7500rpm not once did it miss.

 

[burns]

I definetly doo need more clearnce and a new motor mount. but doenst expleian my motor from cutting out durning luanch on the street or any other time it wouldnt of done it only when i wanted to run and go fast

Are you getting traction on the street? You may only be cutting out on the strip because you are getting traction and the distibutor is hitting the firewall. The body will flex a lot more if you get traction. Your timing should be somewhere between 34-38 degrees at 3000 rpm with vacuum advance unhooked and plugged. Don't worry about you initial. Post some pictures of your plugs so we can see how your fuel curve looks.

 

[Denis the Menace]

You may only be cutting out on the strip because you are getting traction and the distibutor is hitting the firewall.[/qoute]

Good point!