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1965 2door HT Helena, GA 31037
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Discussion Starter #1
As a lot of you know by now a supposed dustless paint remover ended up sand blasting my whole car. The body shop has done wonders getting it back straight from all the wrinkles the sand blasting did but there is another thing that we are looking at. The roof was blasted from the interior and the top side so the roof metal is very thin now. You can take your finger and push the metal in at just about any point on the roof.

The body guy says there is some kind of plastic that can be applied to the interior side to stiffen the metal but didn't go into any detail about what it is or how it is applied except that it is glued on.

Does anyone have any info as to what he is talking about and where I can go look to see just how effective it really is? Thanks.
 

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Thin roof

This is going to sound really odd, but I think worth looking into. It's spray foam insulation, closed cell. They spray it in homes. You can spray it any thickness you want, and when it dries its hard as a rock. I had it sprayed in my home. It resists moisture too. The guy that sprayed it in my house showed me how tough it was by spraying 1/2" of it plastic leftover from batt insulation. I couldn't hardly break it. It's super rigid. If this would work you'd also gain sound deadening and thermal insulation.
You can buy the kit for a small area like that and spray it yourself, or go to a reputable spray foam contractor and you can see it for yourself. It's an option. Good luck to you!
 

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J Mark maybe on to something...

Carbon fiber/epoxy has been used successfully for structural elements in the marine industry, automotive and even building construction! maybe hit up a composite professional in your area for advise...

If your sled is on a rotisserie, it wouldn't be too difficult...
 

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You could also spray it with Lizard Skin as a sound deadener and insulation. Thats what I did and it took all the tinny sound out of it
 

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Ok ..... my 2cents ..... (only worth -- nothing) ...

I'd go with the "truck bed Lining" ... can be sprayed on thick and dries hard. And should not interfer with doing your headliner

Then, I'd also say --- for your application --- DON'T
DO the spray FOAM ... Why?
Because , most spray foam type stuff expands by HEAT.
It may get hot on your 'already thin sheet metal' ........... not a
good idea ...

Sam, I just thinking 'out loud' ... and you can picture what heat will do on your roof.

(I'd even do a test panel before doing your roof .. to see IF the bed liner gets hot ... then go from there).
 

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As a lot of you know by now a supposed dustless paint remover ended up sand blasting my whole car. The body shop has done wonders getting it back straight from all the wrinkles the sand blasting did but there is another thing that we are looking at. The roof was blasted from the interior and the top side so the roof metal is very thin now. You can take your finger and push the metal in at just about any point on the roof.

The body guy says there is some kind of plastic that can be applied to the interior side to stiffen the metal but didn't go into any detail about what it is or how it is applied except that it is glued on.

Does anyone have any info as to what he is talking about and where I can go look to see just how effective it really is? Thanks.
The roof is pretty flimsy, you can generally push it in with your finger anyway, I would compare it to another car first
 

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If your roof skin is really as thin as you're making it seem, I would cut it off and replace it with one from another vehicle..
 

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I stumbled across this process a while back.

https://metallisation.com/applications/metallisation-equipment-repairs-body-panels/

http://www.precisioncoatings.com/what-is-thermal-spray/

I've never used it, but it might help in your situation. I know that in your case you're looking for a way to restore the structural strength of the roof panel, and not fill holes, as described in the example here. I first read about this process on another site where the shop used an example of a 1930's vehicle restoration in which the roof looked like Swiss cheese. They used the metal spray process to fill the holes, AND rebuild the thickness of the whole roof panel. Unfortunately, I can't find the link to that site. But I'm sure that with a little investigation you should be able to determine whether this process is a viable solution for you.

I hope this helps,

Gerry
 

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1965 2door HT Helena, GA 31037
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Discussion Starter #13
All the suggestions seem to be viable for what I need done. I'm going to get back with the body guy and get some direct answers about what he is planning to do to rebuild strength in the roof.

I seriously thought about replacing the roof but couldn't find one that was good enough to bother. I went and looked at five different cars but they were all rust buckets and not worth the trouble. Humidity and rust are a real killer in South Georgia. Back in the mid 70's there was a big push to clean up old junk yards and junk cars across middle Georgia. Scrap metal was going for a good price and the vast majority of old cars disappeared. As a results, Novas are almost impossible to find so we gave up and went with trying to fix the roof I have.

That spray on metal system looks like it would be a great thing to have but for a small body shop the amount of use would probably not allow such expensive equipment. I'll pass on the link to my body guy though.

I'm not giving up as this car is part of the family now but I'm still at the mercy of the body shop to get her back on the road. Bed liner or Lizard skin sounds like it might be something if it will not come loose from the roof. The drawback is that the roof on the inside has now been primed since the blasting took it down to metal. It had to be sealed. I'm wondering if something like BL and LS would adhere to the primer enough to not peel?
 

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All the suggestions seem to be viable for what I need done. I'm going to get back with the body guy and get some direct answers about what he is planning to do to rebuild strength in the roof.

I seriously thought about replacing the roof but couldn't find one that was good enough to bother. I went and looked at five different cars but they were all rust buckets and not worth the trouble. Humidity and rust are a real killer in South Georgia. Back in the mid 70's there was a big push to clean up old junk yards and junk cars across middle Georgia. Scrap metal was going for a good price and the vast majority of old cars disappeared. As a results, Novas are almost impossible to find so we gave up and went with trying to fix the roof I have.

That spray on metal system looks like it would be a great thing to have but for a small body shop the amount of use would probably not allow such expensive equipment. I'll pass on the link to my body guy though.

I'm not giving up as this car is part of the family now but I'm still at the mercy of the body shop to get her back on the road. Bed liner or Lizard skin sounds like it might be something if it will not come loose from the roof. The drawback is that the roof on the inside has now been primed since the blasting took it down to metal. It had to be sealed. I'm wondering if something like BL and LS would adhere to the primer enough to not peel?
I have used the Lizard skin thermal insulation and this should do the trick that you are looking for. Its also supposed to be applied over primed, or epoxy metal. So all that has to be done is a scuff/sanding of the primer and it will stick like crazy. I had an accident when i was applying the product, and i managed to get it all of my walls in my shop. Let me tell you, it sticks to everything. I had plastic, cardboard, wood, concrete, counter top, metal, my clothes and everything else one would have in a garage covered with this stuff. It stuck to un-sanded hard toy plastic.

If you put the Sound insulation down first, and then come with the thermal over it, this will should give you more strength. Bed liner or lizard skin are probably going to be the best cost effective ways to go.
 

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I have used the Lizard skin thermal insulation and this should do the trick that you are looking for. Its also supposed to be applied over primed, or epoxy metal. So all that has to be done is a scuff/sanding of the primer and it will stick like crazy. I had an accident when i was applying the product, and i managed to get it all of my walls in my shop. Let me tell you, it sticks to everything. I had plastic, cardboard, wood, concrete, counter top, metal, my clothes and everything else one would have in a garage covered with this stuff. It stuck to un-sanded hard toy plastic.

If you put the Sound insulation down first, and then come with the thermal over it, this will should give you more strength. Bed liner or lizard skin are probably going to be the best cost effective ways to go.
Does POR-15 count as an acceptable surface for Lizard Skin if scuffed. When I pulled the old factory padding out I became pretty concerned. No way was I taking any sanders to that surface. It had to be pitted at least half the thickness of the roof. Quick cleaning with a scuff pad then POR-15. Those factory pads are like sponges holding condensation in against the roof.
 

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Does POR-15 count as an acceptable surface for Lizard Skin if scuffed. When I pulled the old factory padding out I became pretty concerned. No way was I taking any sanders to that surface. It had to be pitted at least half the thickness of the roof. Quick cleaning with a scuff pad then POR-15. Those factory pads are like sponges holding condensation in against the roof.
I have never top coated por 15, but I was reading the tech sheet and it looks like a tie-coat is needed to top coat over por 15. You may want to contact por 15 to see what is the best way to prep to it for putting lizard skin on top of it. A simple scuff and shoot might be enough.
 

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1965 2door HT Helena, GA 31037
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Discussion Starter #17
Can Lizard Skin be applied with a brush or a roller? I do not have access to a rotisserie. It would seem that now is the time to apply whatever I'm going to do before any other work gets done to the interior.
 

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x3 lizard skin

i have used it as a sound deadener and rust proofer on a 48 gmc and my 71 nova and it does add structural integrity.
 

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Does POR-15 count as an acceptable surface for Lizard Skin if scuffed. When I pulled the old factory padding out I became pretty concerned. No way was I taking any sanders to that surface. It had to be pitted at least half the thickness of the roof. Quick cleaning with a scuff pad then POR-15. Those factory pads are like sponges holding condensation in against the roof.
Yea I would find a good fiberglass man, epoxy resin and a few layers of mat and cloth fiberglass will repair and strengthen your iner roof, and if done properly it will outlast your car.
I will be doing the same for my longroof cause my gutter are rotted out. Hopefully this helps.
 
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