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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
If you don't see the answer to your question listed below feel free to post it in this thread.


Total Cost Involved Installation Manuals

'62-'67 Nova Coil Spring IFS clip (old design)
http://www.totalcostinvolved.com/pdf/install/mchev/62-67_Nova_New_Coil_Spring_Front_End.pdf

'62-'67 Nova Custom IFS clip (new design)
http://www.totalcostinvolved.com/pdf/install/mchev/62-67_Nova_New_Coil_Spring_Front_End1.pdf

'62-'67 Nova Pro-Touring clip
http://www.totalcostinvolved.com/pdf/install/mchev/62-67_Nova_IFS_Pro-Touring_Install.pdf

'62-'67 Nova 4-Link
http://www.totalcostinvolved.com/pdf/install/mchev/62-67_Nova-Rear_4-Link.pdf

'62-'67 Nova Torque Arm
http://www.totalcostinvolved.com/pdf/install/mchev/62-67_Nova_Rear_Torque_Arm_Pro-Touring.pdf

'68-'74 Nova Custom IFS
http://www.totalcostinvolved.com/pdf/install/mchev/67-69_Camaro_Custom_IFS.pdf

'68-'74 Nova 4-link (Stock Tubs)
http://www.totalcostinvolved.com/pdf/install/mchev/68-72_Nova_Rear_Stock_4Link.pdf

'68-'74 Nova 4-link (Minitubbed)
http://www.totalcostinvolved.com/pdf/install/mchev/68-72_Nova_Rear-Mini_Tub_4-Link.pdf

'68-'74 Nova Torque Arm (Stock Tubs & Minitubbed)
http://www.totalcostinvolved.com/pdf/install/mchev/68-72_Nova_Rear_Torque_Arm.pdf

***Track width information***

*Mustang II front ends purchased prior to Sept 1st, '09 have a 55.5" track width(62-65 = 8" wide wheels with 4.75" backspace)(66-67 = 9" wide wheels with 4.75" backspace)

*Mustang II front ends purchased between Sept 1st, '09 & July 1st 2011 have a 56" track width(62-65 = 8" wide wheels with 5" backspace)(66-67 = 9" wide wheels with 5" backspace)

*Mustang II front ends purchased after July 1st, 2011 that have the 10.5" rotors have a 56.5" track width(62-65 = 8" wide wheels with 5.25" backspace)(66-67 = 9" wide wheels with 5.25" backspace)

*Mustang II front ends purchased after July 1st, 2011 that have either the 11" Granada rotor or a Wilwood rotor have a 57.5" track width(62-65 = 8" wide wheels with 5.75" backspace)(66-67 = 9" wide wheels with 5.75" backspace)

All Pro-Touring & Custom IFS have 57.5" track width(62-65 = 8" wide wheels with 5.75" backspace)(66-67= 9" wide wheels with 5.75" backspace)

**Mustang II front end was discontinued and replaced with our new Custom IFS. We will still be able to service the MII front end should you need control arms, springs, shocks etc

***Rear axle housing width options***

Unless otherwise specified TCI Engineering builds their 9" Currie axles for 1st and 2nd Gens with stock tubs @ 54.5" axle flange to axle flange.('62-'65 = 8" wide wheel with 4" backspace & '66-'67 = 8.5" wide wheel with 4" backspace) If you are using DSE tubs you can go as narrow as 52.25" A/F to A/F.('62-'65 = 10" wide wheel with 5.25" backspace & '66-'67 = 11" wide wheel with 5.25" backspace)

Unless otherwise specified TCI Engineering builds their 9" Currie axles for 3rd Gens using stock tubs @ 57.5" axle flange to axle flange. (9" wide wheel with a 5" backspace)

Unless otherwise specified TCI Engineering builds their 9" Currie axles for 3rd Gens using DSE mini-tubs @ 55.5" axle flange to axle flange. (11" wide wheel with a 5" backspace)

*NOTE* We can build the axle at any width to accomodate specific wheel backspacing but if no specific dimensions are given the axle will be built to the specs above.

*NOTE* Modification to the Coilover cross member will be necessary on 1st & 2nd gens when using DSE mini-tubs. The 3rd gen 4-Link can not be made to fit with a DSE mini-tub. However, the Torque Arm frame bracket on the 3rd gen can be modified to work with the DSE tub.

*NOTE* Any rear axle built narrower than what is listed above may require frame rail clearancing for the brake lines to clear.

*NOTE* The Coilover crossmember will need to be modified if you are cutting into the stock frame rail on any year Nova.

General changes ***updated frequently***

Starting January 1st, 2008 1st and 2nd Gen Nova inner panels and hood hinge brackets were redesigned to make fitment easier/better.

Starting January 1st, 2008 We now use 300# coil springs standard on all small block equipped Mustang II front ends instead of the 350# springs previously used. These coil springs are 14.5" long and will take roughly 500-1000 miles to properly seat in. Once they settle in the lower control arm will sit parallel to the ground +/- 2 degrees. Yes, the springs will be VERY stiff as delivered. If you don't have the vehicle at full weight and the springs are not settled I would suggest leaving the springs out because you can damage the ball joints.

Starting September 1st, 2009 We now use 5/16" shortened control arms standard on all Mustang II front ends instead of the previously used 5/8" shortened. *Please be aware that this change has effected the anti-sway bar lengths.*

Starting November 1st, 2009 All Mustang II front ends will come with 1.125" O/D lower control arms for added strength. This is an upgrade from the 1" control arms previously available.

Starting December 1st, 2009 All '62-'67 Nova front ends now come with a 1" thick anti-sway bar instead of the 3/4" thick bar previously available. This new bar is mounted in front of the crossmember instead of the back. The new bar is nearly 20% more stiff and can be retrofit to an older clip(call or PM for details).

Starting January 1st, 2010 All 1st, 2nd & 3rd Generation Nova 4-links will now come standard with an adjustable Panhard Bar instead of a Track Bar. The new Panhard Bar can be retrofit to an existing Track Bar equipped 4-Link but it does require a bracket to be welded onto the axle housing.

Starting March 1st, 2010 All year Nova 4-links will now come standard with 1.25" O/D link bars for added strength.

Starting July 1st, 2010 Both Mustang II and Pro-Touring front ends will come standard with a newly redesigned inner panels and hood brackets to allow more tire clearance and easier installation.

Starting August 1st, 2010 All Mustang II and Pro-Touring front ends will now come standard with Large bore GM calipers and drilled/slotted rotors.

Starting July 1st, 2011 All Mustang II front clips will now come standard with adjustable down bars, completely redesigned upper hats to allow for shim alignment adjustments. *see post #13 below for details

Starting July 1st, 2011 Mustang II front control arm lengths were increased 5/16" which is back to stock length. The ball joint cups now have a 7 degree angle on the upper and 11 degree angle on the lower to keep the ball joint from binding at full compression & extension.

Starting August 13th, 2011 The lower ball joint size was increased so the taper going into the spindle is larger. These new lower ball joints will not interchange with the old spindle taper. K719 is the new part# of the lower ball joint


Starting January 1st, 2012 All control arm bushings have been redesigned by Energy Suspension. This new design has 6 valleys for the poly lube to be contained within in order to properly lubricate the inner sleeve. This means quiet articulation with drastically minimized maintenance.


Starting Summer 2012 The Coil Spring front end will now use a completely new upper control arm mounting surface. The new design eliminates the old style t-bolts that were used to hold the upper control in place. Instead, the upper control arm now mounts to a vertical plate making alignment adjustments very easy.


Starting April 1st, 2013 The Mustang II front clip has been discontinued and completely replaced with our new Custom IFS clip. This clip comes standard with coilovers and our Custom spindle making geometry, performance and ride much better without the hassles of installing a traditional coil spring.

Some additional information

4.75" bolt pattern front ends have 7/16"-20 studs
4.75" bolt pattern rear axles have 7/16"-20 studs(1/2" knurl)

Power rack fittings are 9/16"-18 pressure side & 5/8"-18 return side. These fittings seal with an o-ring and are torqued to 10 ft-lbs. We sell complete line kits including hoses, fittings and a flow reducer valve for $149(early style pump) and $199(late style pump) and the fittings by themselves for $40(pair).

Power rack & pinion shaft size is 3/4" X 36 spline
Manual rack & pinion shaft size is 9/16" X 26 spline

manual rack replacement = '74-'78 Mustang
Power rack replacement = '79-'93 Mustang (We use the TRW version which most parts houses call the "high Performance version" and it is 2.5 turns lock to lock)


Upper Ball Joints = Moog Part# K772(screw in)
Lower Ball Joints = Moog Part# K719(screw in)
Brake pads for use with GM calipers = 78-85 GM
Brake pads for use with 4 piston Wilwood = 150-8850K(BP10)
Upper Control Arm Bushings = Energy Suspension Part# 2652.01(4 needed)
Lower Control Arm Bushings = Energy Suspension Part# 2618.06(8 needed)
Anti-Sway Bar bushings(1") = Energy Suspension 5010G(2 needed)
Anti-sway bar bushings(1.125") = Energy Suspension 5012G(2 needed)
Anti-sway bar bushings(1.250") = Energy Suspension 5013G(2 needed)
Outer Tie Rod Ends = Part# 8024170 ('74-'78 Mustang - 9/16-18)
Rear suspension Link bar replacement bushings = Energy Suspension Part# 2652.01(8 needed)
Torque Arm front attachment bushing replacement = Energy Suspension Part# 2652.01(2 needed)

LSx oil pan = Use the '98-'02 F-Body oil pan to clear our crossmember and rack & pinion.

Alignment settings:

Power steering:
Camber 0 degrees
Caster 4-5 degrees positive
Toe-in 1/16"

Manual steering:
Camber 0 degrees
Caster 1-2 degrees positive
Toe-in 1/16"
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
***UPDATE 3-18-10***

Introducing the NEW '62-'67 4-Link drive shaft loop crossmember with exhaust reliefs.









**************************************

For those of you that already have a crossmember and would like to add these all you need is part# "C-NOTCH 001" @ $20 for the pair. We installed the c-notches onto the crossmember on 13" centers using a 4" hole saw to cut the opening. The c-notch dimensions are .125" wall x 3.5" diameter.



****Update 08-05-2010****

Here are the new 1.25" link bars now standard on all year Nova 4-links. *shown with optional powdercoating*




Here is the new panhard bar and brackets that replaced the track bar. *shown with optional powdercoating*


 

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IS THIS SET UP ALL BOLT IN OR IS THERE SOME WELDING REQUIRED, ALSO CAN YOU USE A 10 OR 12 BOLT REAR ON THIS PIECE? PM ME PLEASE:yes:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
IS THIS SET UP ALL BOLT IN OR IS THERE SOME WELDING REQUIRED, ALSO CAN YOU USE A 10 OR 12 BOLT REAR ON THIS PIECE? PM ME PLEASE:yes:
*PM sent

For anyone else reading this, you can use a 10 or 12 bolt with the 4-link rear suspension. The only welding required is the 4-link axle brackets onto the axle itself, everything that attaches to the body is bolt-on.

-J
 

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Jason, 18x9, 6" backspacing ?? Didn't read it ??? Hate to order wheels and them not fit,,, Will the bulge gone on my firewall help ?? or is it an issue of fender contact ?? I just want to be safe,, car has 5" ride hgt.. Any pos., info ?? Roger PS.- Had to build headers since engine is set back so far, also had to cut engine mounts and move back,,,
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Jason, 18x9, 6" backspacing ?? Didn't read it ??? Hate to order wheels and them not fit,,, Will the bulge gone on my firewall help ?? or is it an issue of fender contact ?? I just want to be safe,, car has 5" ride hgt.. Any pos., info ?? Roger PS.- Had to build headers since engine is set back so far, also had to cut engine mounts and move back,,,
http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1467707&postcount=9

I haven't updated that thread with the 9" width information yet but like mentioned in this post above a 6" backspace will work but the 5.75" is preferred.

-J
 

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I have a question about the 4 link rear for a 62 to 67 nova. I am wantin to run a 10" to 12" wide rear tire. and to do so im thinkin im gonna have to narrow the frame rails at the wheel wells area. i looked at the instructions on this thread for the 4 link, and noticed that part of the 4 link rear bolts up on part of the frame rails in this area and was wonderin if theres would still be any way of putting one of your 4 link rears in.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have a question about the 4 link rear for a 62 to 67 nova. I am wantin to run a 10" to 12" wide rear tire. and to do so im thinkin im gonna have to narrow the frame rails at the wheel wells area. i looked at the instructions on this thread for the 4 link, and noticed that part of the 4 link rear bolts up on part of the frame rails in this area and was wonderin if theres would still be any way of putting one of your 4 link rears in.
I tried to find a specific thread that had some pics and a discussion about this already but alas my brain fade is in full effect this late in the day. The outer brackets will have to be cut off in order to run a DSE tub. You will just have to trim the outer bracket if you are going to mini-tub it up to the frame.

There are a bunch of examples floating around on Steves of guys that have done it. Here is one such example. http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=162197

-J
 

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http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1467707&postcount=9

I haven't updated that thread with the 9" width information yet but like mentioned in this post above a 6" backspace will work.

-J
I'm a little confused. I sent an email about a week ago and George Oka replied that the widest rim I could use for my pro touring front clip on my 66 is 8" with 4.5 BS. The information in the tech questions says 8.5". I've been searching the forum but I can't find a lot of info on what other people are running. I want to run a 265-275 tire on an 18" wheel. Just curious if there is definite answer on what width and backspace will definitely work. I'm running coil overs with the 12" rotors and dynalites btw incase clearance issues make a difference for backspace choices.

Also you mentioned a TCI Z bar bracket in another post. Where can I get info on that?

Thanks a lot!
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I'm a little confused. I sent an email about a week ago and George Oka replied that the widest rim I could use for my pro touring front clip on my 66 is 8" with 4.5 BS. The information in the tech questions says 8.5". I've been searching the forum but I can't find a lot of info on what other people are running. I want to run a 265-275 tire on an 18" wheel. Just curious if there is definite answer on what width and backspace will definitely work. I'm running coil overs with the 12" rotors and dynalites btw incase clearance issues make a difference for backspace choices.

Also you mentioned a TCI Z bar bracket in another post. Where can I get info on that?

Thanks a lot!
What I posted in this thread is correct. I'll make sure George receives current information ASAP as he doesn't normally answer calls. The widest we have physically mocked up at this time is a 265 on a 9.5" wheel but it had room to spare on both sides. Sal will be running a 9" wheel with a 275 tire on his '66.

George designed the Z-bar bracket so he will be your best contact about it.

-J
 

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12 bolt torque arm suspension

I am installing your 12 bolt torque arm sus.in my 66 nova.I minitubbed the car in to the frame rails so I have to modify the outside saddle of the coilover mount.Should I just trim the top flange of the mount down to where it will clear the inner fender on the rail then drill horizontaily for two or three bolts through the frame?Is there a better way to do this?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I am installing your 12 bolt torque arm sus.in my 66 nova.I minitubbed the car in to the frame rails so I have to modify the outside saddle of the coilover mount.Should I just trim the top flange of the mount down to where it will clear the inner fender on the rail then drill horizontaily for two or three bolts through the frame?Is there a better way to do this?
You've got the right idea for a car tubbed up to the rail. On a car with a DSE tub the whole outer part of the coilover crossmember has to be removed.

As long as you have the 3 vertical bolts on the inner part of the rail and two going horizontally you'll be good to go.

-J
 

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hey I got the regular IFS coil spring clip for my 64 nova and wanted to ask about the upper control arm moutning bolts. In the above pictures the bolts are mounted with the nut on the inside(engine bay near motor mounts) which makes sense bc the nut would hit the spring perch not allowing to get a socket or wrench around it to torque it down to spec. Is that the correct way to mount those ? I ask this bc the directions I printed off for the install call for it to be reveresed and the pictures in the installation all show the bolts being mounted the opposite way of the above pictures.

thanks in advance
Nate Banks
 

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Ok so another question then....if the install directions are the way it should be installed(nut side out towards spring perch ) should the nut be hitting or close to hitting the perch? They are so close for me you can't get a socket around them and I believe its suppose to be torqued to 100lbs....trying to see if something is wrong with my install or how I can go about trying to torque to spec.
thanks again
Nate Banks
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I got a little more detail from Ed(the owner). He said originally they wanted them installed as shown on the display picture above. After they installed a BBC though there was very little room for the headers to pass through. They turned them around on all applications so they wouldn't have to make separate installations for the BBC vs. SBC/LSx. They ended up using the allen side to torque them down.

-J
 

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Coil Over Option

Hi,

I got the coil over option when I purchased my MII clip a few months back.

Where can I find installation instructions for these coil overs?

I'm particularly interested in seeing how the shock mounts into the spring hat on the clip. I have 2 bushings that I think sandwich the hat between them, but I only have one nut on top. I think there should be a couple of cup washers on the outside of the sandwich and another nut on the bottom, but I'm not sure as I only have the one nut for hardware? In addition, do the curved side of the bushings face the spring hat, or do the flat sides?

Also, the top of the shock has a thicker rubber mount/bushing that has a washer on top (inside it). The nut holding it down is loose. Should this be tight, snug, finger tight?

The bottom looks straight forward, as I have a bolt/nut combo and an lower a-arm with a hole to mount, but a picture here would confirm it for me.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hi,

I got the coil over option when I purchased my MII clip a few months back.

Where can I find installation instructions for these coil overs?

I'm particularly interested in seeing how the shock mounts into the spring hat on the clip. I have 2 bushings that I think sandwich the hat between them, but I only have one nut on top. I think there should be a couple of cup washers on the outside of the sandwich and another nut on the bottom, but I'm not sure as I only have the one nut for hardware? In addition, do the curved side of the bushings face the spring hat, or do the flat sides?

Also, the top of the shock has a thicker rubber mount/bushing that has a washer on top (inside it). The nut holding it down is loose. Should this be tight, snug, finger tight?

The bottom looks straight forward, as I have a bolt/nut combo and an lower a-arm with a hole to mount, but a picture here would confirm it for me.

Thanks.
Here is the install photo for both the regular shock and the coilover. If you are missing one of these pieces of the puzzle just drop me a PM with what you need with an address and I'll send them out.




As far as the big nut with the bump stop it should be tight.

-J
 
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