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Been a footbraker for a while have a transbrake in the car but just could not get used to it. I went to the last race of the season today and hit a .003 light in the first round, and a .000 in the second round. The so called perfect tree. I got worried and dropped a 1/2pound in the front tires. Staged in the third round and brought it up on the converter and I rolled about 4 inches forward. When I let it go .002 red.
I came to the revelation, that if I was using my transbrake I would of not of rolled forward and red lit. Next season no more footbrakin. I think a .000 light is a very bad light because it is so close to red lighting. What I consider a perfect light is around .01-.02 footbrakin. This gives me a margin of error for accidently inching forward when I bring it up on the converter. You racers that use a transbrake, what do you personally consider a perfect light.
 

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That's a loaded question. Basically in the electronics class with delay boxes, EVERYONE can go .000. I have done it several times. Sometimes in time trials when it does me no good. :mad: I try to be .010 on the tree. I think if you can do that consistently, you will be in the race at the stripe and win your share.
 

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I usually turn between a .018 and .000. This is what you need if you want to win. Don't get me wrong and think I'm a pro. :no:

I still get my brain farts and this year have gone .001 - .004 and have had a .106 :sleep: fortunately it was in time trials.

Oh and I do this the way drag racing was ment to be "Foot Braking"!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That's a loaded question. Basically in the electronics class with delay boxes, EVERYONE can go .000. I have done it several times. Sometimes in time trials when it does me no good. :mad: I try to be .010 on the tree. I think if you can do that consistently, you will be in the race at the stripe and win your share.
You are right I should have specified. I run a no electrontics class, That adheres to the NHRA heritage series rules.

Pandoras Box, those are good lights. On my nova I have to bring the RPMS up until the front of my car begins to rise to hit double O lights. that is with 22.5 inch front tires. on my camaro I just take the slack out of the throttle and leave just above an idle, and I can get double O lights. the cars are set up the same except the camaro has a th400 and the nova has a glide. I like to foot brake but 1 out of about 15 times I will inch forward into the beams with the nova.
 

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You are right I should have specified. I run a no electrontics class, That adheres to the NHRA heritage series rules.

Pandoras Box, those are good lights. On my nova I have to bring the RPMS up until the front of my car begins to rise to hit double O lights. that is with 22.5 inch front tires. on my camaro I just take the slack out of the throttle and leave just above an idle, and I can get double O lights. the cars are set up the same except the camaro has a th400 and the nova has a glide. I like to foot brake but 1 out of about 15 times I will inch forward into the beams with the nova.
That's a really small tire on the front. Try running a 26" tire, you'd be surprised how much of a difference that will make. It also pays to know the roll-out and the tree at the track you run at.
 

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You racers that use a transbrake, what do you personally consider a perfect light.

I consider a perfect light .000 or .500, all depends what timing system you have. But a comfortable light would be around a .015 or better, whether you're footin or transbrakin. As long as it's better than your opponent, then it's a dialin game. Dave
 

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What do I think a perfect light is? 90% luck and 10% skill/equipment. I've had a bunch of them, and while they make you feel good, wait till after the next round before you think you've got it mastered.
 

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What do I think a perfect light is? 90% luck and 10% skill/equipment. I've had a bunch of them, and while they make you feel good, wait till after the next round before you think you've got it mastered.
I don't know about it being ONLY 10%. :no:

There is plenty of skill involved unless you're a "once in awhile" racer.

You need to know your car, you need to have your suspension set right, you need to know the tree, you need to know the track's roll out. There's a lot to it that is NOT luck.
 

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I prefer to call "perfect lights" pushing your luck. :yes:

But it sure feels good when you do it! :yes: :turn:
 

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Been a footbraker for a while have a transbrake in the car but just could not get used to it. I went to the last race of the season today and hit a .003 light in the first round, and a .000 in the second round. The so called perfect tree. I got worried and dropped a 1/2pound in the front tires. Staged in the third round and brought it up on the converter and I rolled about 4 inches forward. front page When I let it go .002 red.
I came to the revelation, that if I was using my transbrake I would of not of rolled forward and red lit. Next season no more footbrakin. I think a .000 light is a very bad light because it is so close to red lighting. What I consider a perfect light is around .01-.02 footbrakin. This gives me a margin of error for accidently inching forward when I bring it up on the converter. You racers that use a transbrake, what do you personally consider a perfect light.
Can you share some pics of the perfect light?
 

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You guys haven't even mentioned the effect that the calibration of the photoeyes has on the perfect light. Haven't you ever run into the fact that what's good on the left lane isn't even close on the right or visa versa?
 

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Of course!

One of the tracks I run at, the 2 lanes are totally different. That's why I said it pays to know the track. :yes:
 

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I'll share my perfect light story and tell you what it looked like. It was a .5000 on the time ticket and it happened in the 3rd round of eliminations about three months ago. I was the faster car so I left last. My opponent had a green light launch. My yellow lights started coming down and I launched. The third yellow stayed on. No green light. Talk about confused! I glanced down track and there weren't any win lights on so I stayed in it. I caught my opponent before the stripe and dumped it so I had an easy win. I still didn't know what happened until the guy in the ticket booth congratulated me on having a perfect light. I found out later that the ticket only prints 4 digits past the decimal but the track computer sees 5 digits. The fifth was also a 0. I also race footbrake and I consider that playing way too close for comfort. I think a good footbrake light is anything between a .530 and a .570. Anything less will get you in trouble with red and much more will get you beat. You will win lots of races in footbrake with those lights if your car will run the dial-in.
 

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Always try to stay below 020, if i hit a 000 i will add 10 in my box and will be happy with 010 light. I read an article once in the NHRA mag and i have done this, if you are cutting real good lights all day, say all under 020 and you cut a 120 light and you actually see the light on, you just blinked, which takes .100 to do and that's one of the reasons you had a bad one. Stay focused and don't blink.
 
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