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Discussion Starter #1
I recently had a leak where the kickdown cable was hooked up to the tranny pan. didnt realize it till the car wouldnt click into first and would slip. filled the tranny fluid up and it was fine for a week. i was driving and at the light the engine would rev high and the car would accelerate reeeeal slow. i knew something was wrong with the tranny right away so i pulled into a sketchy parking lot and check the fluid. the level was full, but the oil smelled burnt. i tried moving the car in all three foward gear, but no dice. reverse worked fine. i called a tranny place and they towed the car and its sitting in the shop till they check it out tommorow morning. if the tranny is shot, should i get a rebuild? or would it be only a little bit more to put a 700r or a 4L60 in instead. it has a th350 in there now that the previous owner put it, but he had no paperwork, and i think he did it him self. how much does it ussually cost to rebuild a tranny as opposed to just putting in the upgraded one like the 700r or the 4L60, used or new?
 

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67 4 door, 65 wagon (in pieces)
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The rebuild on my 200 4R was about $650.

Cost of swapping it out depends on which one you go with. Usually you need a whole bunch of other goodies (crossmember, cables, lock-up kits and linkages.) May also need driveshaft shortened if the new trans isn't the same length as the old one. I have no idea on the lengths of a 700R4 or 4L60 compared to a Th350
 

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Go with a 200 4r you will be able to reuse most of the Turbo 350 parts. like crossmember and I dont know on the driveshaft.
 

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The TH200-4R will bolt up where the TH350 was and you can reuse the same driveshaft. You will need to get a TH400 crossmember, but they're pretty easy to find in the aftermarket. The TH700-R4 is about 3 inches longer than the TH350 and you will have to shorten your driveshaft.

If you do a search both these transmissions have been discussed at length on this site.
 

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There is a particluar shop in town that I use for my transmission repairs. Theya re pretty cheap, I seem to recall about $300 - $400 for a Th 350.
BUT.. I always seem to have to bring the car in to them, for something.. either a leak, or whatever.

So the last transmission I had built, I spent more money on a more expensive shop. had the SAME TROUBLE.. They were late on their time estimate, over on the money estimate, and I had to BRING IT BACK.

So much for getting more for the buck with the 'better' shop. Don't remember how much it was exactly, but I DO remember that for another $75 I could have gotten a SUMMIT performance transmission with a high-stall converter freight-dropped at my door!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
just got off the phone with the shop they said 1400 to overhaul it, he said theres steel in the drum and its burnt out. talked to another shop, they said they'd build a 700R for $900 so id rather do that...ill see how it goes.
 

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Do those prices include a new convertor? A rebuild around here is about 400. Thats bringing in the transmission out of the car. I guess it depends on your budget. An easy swap 350 is what I would do. No need to mess with the crossmember, driveshaft, etc.

summit 350 trans. have no idea who builds them or their reputation, just an idea of where the prices start.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D700300&N=700+4294925134+4294839071+4294861220+4294904013+115&autoview=sku
 

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Do those prices include a new convertor? A rebuild around here is about 400. Thats bringing in the transmission out of the car. I guess it depends on your budget. An easy swap 350 is what I would do. No need to mess with the crossmember, driveshaft, etc.

summit 350 trans. have no idea who builds them or their reputation, just an idea of where the prices start.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D700300&N=700+4294925134+4294839071+4294861220+4294904013+115&autoview=sku


I agree about the summit TH350. I would go that route myself. Summit has a pretty good repuation for parts they put there name on. I would expect no less out of that trans also.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
got the car towed to the shop and talked to the guy...we were gonna put the 700r in but i still have stock one-legger rear gears, he said id blow my rear. so hes gonna rebuild the th350 but make the tires chirp with each gear and put a manual valve body in it. good idea or bad idea?
 

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got the car towed to the shop and talked to the guy...we were gonna put the 700r in but i still have stock one-legger rear gears, he said id blow my rear. so hes gonna rebuild the th350 but make the tires chirp with each gear and put a manual valve body in it. good idea or bad idea?
What exactly is the reasoning behind his statement that you'll blow your rear? Just by upgrading to a 700r4? That makes no sense whatsoever.
 

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I went from a 283/th350 to a built 5.3L with 4l60E on my stock 8.2 peg leg rear with 3.08 gears, and have not blown out the gears....the guy is feeding you a line of BS. My rear was pulled from a 67 4 door, all original, all I did was change the fluid and it holds up just fine.

Jack
 

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There are tons of horror stories out there about tranny shops. I would do some research and get some referrals and scope things out a bit, unless you know who you are dealing with. I once pulled my 96 Jimmy into a trans shop cause I was having some noise on the highway, and there was a shop right there. "All American Transmission". After a 45 minute wait and diagnostic they handed me an estimate for $1,600 said my trans was shot. I get out of there and went to my regular guy, took the drive nice and slow, and he fixed my wheel bearing for 75 bucks. No problems with the trans whatsoever.
 

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With your gear ratio and a 700r4, you would have a perfectly drivable car. With the lower first gear in the 700, you can tolerate your 2.73s (yes, they're not ideal). On the other hand, the overdrive in the 700r4 allows you to run lower gears (higher numerically) and still be able to drive it on the freeway.

Now as for the TH350...Why did he suggest a manual shift valve body? There's nothing really wrong with one, but it's not as drivable for an everyday streetcar. Why not go with a B&M or Transgo shift kit? You can improve your shift firmness (and decrease overlap) and still have all the features of an automatic. The manual shift valve body seems like overkill on the street, ESPECIALLY with 2.73 gears.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
i do have a B&M shift kit in it already, but dosent the manual valve get rid of the trans brake? i am all new to this stuff, i feel like quite an idiot.
 
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