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Discussion Starter #1
Had to remove distrib to get to sheered bolt. Having timing issue after replacement. Marked wires and distrib relative to block. Turned engine once reinstalled. On further inspection rotor is not set below #1. I assume that is issue. Wondering if I can manually crank using bolt shown in pic below. Don't want another "sheer" situation, so any tips/tricks would be appreciated.

Thanks!
 

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i'm pretty sure i've heard/ read don't turn the engine by that bolt.
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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Wondering if I can manually crank using bolt shown in pic below. Don't want another "sheer" situation, so any tips/tricks would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Personally... I prefer to move/crank the engine with a remote starter switch.

But if you do decide to turn/crank the engine by turning the crank pulley bolt shown in your photo, below are a couple suggestions that will help make it easier to rotate.
*Loosen all of the belts connected to the crank pulley.
*Remove all of your spark plugs.
*Set your emergency brake and put the trans in neutral.
*Use a 6-point socket to turn the crank bolt (Using a 1/2" drive ratchet is also recommended)
*Only turn this bolt clockwise (as if your were tightening the bolt).
NOTE: If the engine does not begin to rotate "relatively easily" when turning this bolt - STOP. You do not want to take a chance on over tightening/striping... or breaking this bolt.

Question... When you reinstalled your distributor, did you confirm that the distributor dropped in all the way down (base of distributor w/gasket was resting on the intake manifold) prior to confirming the position of the rotor?

Sometimes, the distributor does not drop down completely because the tab within the distributor gear did not engage the slot in the oil pump shaft. When this happens, the rotor is not pointing at it's final position... and as you crank the engine, the distributor will eventual drop down all the way and the rotor will turn a little more.
When I reinstall a distributor, I use a long flat blade screw driver to turn the slot in the oil pump shaft so it lines up the tab in the distributor gear... so the distributor drops all the way onto the intake and I can confirm the correct rotor position (it may take a few tries of slightly turning/adjusting the slot in the oil pump shaft to get everything to line up).
 

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Take the plugs out and you can turn it by that bolt. If you cannot, you have bigger problems in the engine. Only thing, is if it is a stick car, make sure its in neutral!!! Anyway, pull the driver side valve cover off and watch the rockers on cylinder #1 move. When the intake valve goes down and then comes up fully start to look for the timing mark on the balancer. Continue to turn the engine until the mark on the balancer is at the top of the timing pointer. 8-10 degrees before Top Dead center. Put your distributor in now with the rotor now just at #1 on the cap. It should start.
 

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Unless all spark plugs are removed, the balancer bolt should not be used to turn the engine over.


However... I do it all the time, even with compression. - But only with low or 'standard' compression engines.

Deliberately inserting a stop into a cylinder and then turning the engine over with the starter is a recipe for broken parts, in my opinion.
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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Deliberately inserting a stop into a cylinder and then turning the engine over with the starter is a recipe for broken parts, in my opinion.
I agree... and thanks for bringing this up!

I only mentioned the remote starter switch since the OP did not state they were using a piston stop to find TDC... but it is always wise to highlight these things :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Do you typically loosen the belts? I have removed the plugs and have tried to turn but only have a smaller 1/2 drive ratchet so hard to get any momentum from under the car. Engine will turn if I start it.
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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I have found that loosening the belts helps.

Another thing to try is slide a longer piece of steel pipe over your ratchet handle to increase the torque/turning leverage of ratchet (similar to using a longer breaker bar).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I was able to get my hands on a breaker bar. Bolt turned slightly and I stopped as a little bit afraid of sheer. I think I am going to try the remote start to turn the engine. If I crank the engine with key it turns. I have one around here somewhere. Will post progress.
 

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I permanently replaced the 3 lower pulley bolts with ones about 3" long and use a pry bar to turn the motor. Bumping with the starter is handy with a remote start switch but sometimes you need the ability to inchworm it around,especially when sticking a piston stop in there. The stop method is the simplest and most accurate way to zero in on TDC.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Using the remote starter - How do you view the position of the distrib rotor after each start (bump)? Do you have to pull dist cap after every start to see position?
 

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Just keep the cap off while bumping the engine over.

If you're setting timing, you don't want it to fire anyway. So just leave the cap off.

You can check for TDC and watch the rotor without additional work required each time.
 

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Pull the number one spark plug out and hold your finger over the hole where the spark plug came out of. Have someone slowly bump the engine over with the key. When the compression starts to blow your finger away you should be in the right place. You can look at your timing marks but you should be right at or before TDC. Install your distributor and if needed you can use a long screw driver to rotate the oil pump rod to make the rotor button point where you want it. I usually point it towards the #1 cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I went and bought a remote electric start and was able to bump engine to TDC. Looks like I had distributor in 180 degrees off. Pulled distributor and used long screw driver to move oil pump stem to #1. It turns very easily and actually has some play from side to side. Is that normal??

Thanks!
 
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