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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
On a manual crank tailgate handle; when you lock it with the key, does the handle lock into place?

I only ask because I havent gotten a key made up for mine yet, and the handle always falls down. I can position it horizontally like it's supposed to be, but if I hit a bump in the road, it swings down.

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'66 Nova Station Wagon
 

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they dont lock into place, they push in maybe 1/4 inch and sort of rest there, when new it would hold fine, since its 40 years old they tend to get worn, and fall like yours does, not sure if there is any way to fix it w/o replacing the handle

robbie (probally not a lot of help)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
sLOW63 said:
they dont lock into place, they push in maybe 1/4 inch and sort of rest there, when new it would hold fine, since its 40 years old they tend to get worn, and fall like yours does, not sure if there is any way to fix it w/o replacing the handle

robbie (probally not a lot of help)
No, that was a lot of help actually... now I'm not in a hurry to take the cylinder to a locksmoith. Thanks robbie.

I noticed it was worn down but thought if it was locked, maybe it would stay. Mine is in really good shape, its just worn down in the spot where the pin rests. I guess a temporary fix would be to put a small bead of caulking where it is worn down. I'm open to ideas:eek:. Kind of hard to explain what is worn down w/o having a pic, but wagon people will know.
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1966 Nova Station Wagon
 

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There is a small spring inside that is supposed to keep the handle from dropping down. They do not reproduce the spring. I wish they did. I have not replaced mine yet. I have a picture of part of the spring. For some reason I can not post it.
 

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As mentioned, the "bat wing spring" (I made that up... :)) on the back of the knob nornally breaks and have seen some on ebay here and there. As you know, the knob pushes in and the knob pin rests inbetween 2 casting pieces, which holds the handle in place.

ALSO, much play is made in the area where the handle and the Plate fit together. (where the cylinder is) There is a snap ring and a "wavy washer" on the backside of the plate and if you add a thin washer, it will remove the play in the handle.

(the handle after years gains play where it can and will pull away from the base plate)

I have pictures and examples of the locking locations and these area's but they are on my thunbnail at home, but will post them later...

-Brent Thomas
Ohio
 

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Thanks. It is an "extra" handle I have an since the case is broken, it's basically junk, but it gave an easy way of seeing how the lock mech functioned.

Since that time when I was finding and buying manual cranks, I was able to get a good deal from a fellow member on the board on a Power Tailgate setup and now I have 3-5 handle setups (some broken, some working, some without keys, some with keys). I have them all boxed up and prolly won't bother with them until next year when we move.

I know one memeber here, and he and I have talked and he will get first dibs on a setup or the parts he needs, but if anyone else is interested in "parts" PM me and maybe with enough interest, I dig through the boxes and get the stuff out.

(Hopefully it would help fellow Longroofers out and save you some money and time bidding and searching on ebay for them)

-Brent Thomas
Ohio
 

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Brent, Is there anyway to get the lock cylinder out without the key? I bought another handle and want to put my lock cylinder in it. Also, do you have a picture of the spring in place on the handle. I just wish I had a spring? I am planning on working on my tailgate in the next few weeks.


Thanks,
novamaniac
 

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When I was playing with the couple I had, I couldn't figure out a way to get the cylinder out without the key. I thought about maybe with a couple small drill holes to push the pins into place, but never figured it out.

I got busy on other parts of the car and boxed all of it up and put it way, so I really don't know if it would work or not?

I thought I had a pic of the "bat wing spring" (kind of catchy) attched, but will have to double check and post tonight. (since we went High Speed I am able to do things from home now instead of bringing my thumbnail to work and waiting till work allowed "Play time")

If not, I'll see about digging out that box of Tailgate Handles and take a snap.

-Brent Thomas
Ohio
 

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Well, It's not great, but here is a snap of the "BatWingSpring" on the back of the handle. (well, half of it !! :) :))

As we all talked about (above posts) that spring seems to always break in half only giving half the "pull/push" or completly off and allows the knob to fall out of place.

As mentioned, I had seen couple on ebay, but only like 2 in the last couple of years, and since I was going power, I didn't buy it/them.



Anyone else suprised no one has repo'd this simple spring ?!

-Brent Thomas
Ohio
 

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nobodys is repoping the spring bc we are a small market....

as for removing the cyl w/o a key ive never done it, but i know a locksmith and in previous conversations (about other locks, similar) they can drill a small hole in the right place on the cyl and get it out w/o a key
 

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Thanks for the picture!!!! I bet most of us could use one of these springs. If someone did repro the spring they would sell a few here and there. So the spring goes into the back of the knob part of the handle. I guess that is supposed to keep the end part in place.

How much play should there be in the handle while it is off the car? I am trying to figure out if mine has too much play.


Thanks,

novamaniac
 

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If you "pull" the handle away from the plate, I think 1/4 inch gap or less is good, but it seems that 1/2 inch+ will allow the knob "nub'n" to not stay in the groove and to hang. (which looks crappy on a finished car and is annoying !!)

If you wanted to try and tighten the gap and are willing take the handle apart, the "wavy washer" is probably lost some wavy-ness. You can tweak it (ie. put some wavy-ness back in it) and it will take some of the gap away.

The C-Ring that snaps on top of the wavy washer is a pain to take on and off, bt can be done.

Good Luck and hopefully this will help keep your handle from dangling.
:)


-Brent Thomas
Ohio
 

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finally got what seems to be a functioning lock cylinder, how do I get this thing out? I do not have the key. I can sacrifice the handle as the chrome is horrible.

My intention was to have a locksmith make a key, can they also remove it?

Can they make a key? I have blanks

arndog
 

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Yes thay can make a key. They turn a blank in the cylinder, take the key out, and can see scratches on the blank. They file out the scratches, then repeat again and again. Call around you will find a local locksmith you can drop it off too.
 

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20 years worth of info..

In all the years of my living with my wagon since it was broken into and damaged, this is the most info i have ever seen on how to fix this one, elusive part on what seems to be a rare wagon. Thanks! Still no idea how to remove the unit though.

In combination with this which is very similar to our Acadian/ Nova wagons manuals, maybe i can get my tailgate to wind up and feel safe to drive it in a damp time instead of keeping it locked up tight to stay dry. worse then a vampire hiding from the sun;)
 

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Remove Manual Crank Handle

Remove the sheet metal panel from the inside of the tailgate. Once removed, there are two more metal plates to remove. with the tailgate down you have to roll up the window all the way. Make sure that you support the window since the tailgate is down. You can access the nuts holding the crank handle on through 2 access holes on the top/ leading edge of the tailgate. There is a hole in the window regulator gear that will line up perfect at a certain point so you can reach in with a socket wrench and extension.
 
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