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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm kicking off my T56 swap this week.

I know that cutting is required to achieve the proper driveline angle, and I've seen pictures on here of people who have done it, but I can't find them.

Does anybody know who did the swap and documented the clearancing?

Also, on a side note, I'm going to be using Quicktime's 6023-PB bellhousing to keep my stock clutch linkage. Supposedly it keeps the trans closer to the engine which may help with clearance; if that's the case I'll share.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Damn. :D OK, then here goes:

Parts list:
Trans: D&D fully built LS1 T56
Shifter: Pro 5.0
Bellhousing: Quick Time 6023-PB (PB stands for pivot ball)
Crossmember: X-Factor XFGM-10301 Aluminum
Clutch: Centerforce Dual Friction DF148552
Speedometer: TBD
Driveshaft: Denny's 3.5" Aluminum
Bearing retainer/collar: CAGM-50003 (American Powertrain)
Scotch: Macallan 12 year

Wiring info, AAW part numbers for reverse lights and reverse lock out:

500952 T56 Backup Light Switch Pigtail Wires
500950 T56 Reverse Lockout Module Pigtail Wires
 

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I hope this helps some. I have the magnum which I think is bigger than a stock T-56, not sure. I made my own crossmember and my angle is 3 degrees down. I'm also using the Quicktime 6023-PB. Here's some picture's of the floor before and after with transmission set at 3 degrees down. Here's a link to Team Chevelle that I posted last summer when I did a T-56 magnum install in my brothers Chevelle, might be some info in there that helps.

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=357712&highlight=








 

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Discussion Starter #8


Collar from American Powertrain. My LS1 T56 only has two bolt holes. I do not know what the stud on there is for, and if I use it or not. There are two installation positions for it.



X Factor crossmember



Threaded plates for crossmember installation.


Hit my first snag tonight. The bellhousing cannot slide over the dowels as the pivot ball bracket hits one of the 'ribs' on the transmission. Gotta call American Powertrain tomorrow.
 

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Two quick questions completely unrelated to each other.

1. How much clearance does having it up on 2x4s give you under the car, it looks like you have a ton of room to work with.

2. Was it previously an automatic (I hope it was, we need more cars with three pedals), I don't see the shifter hole but maybe I'm blind?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Two quick questions completely unrelated to each other.

1. How much clearance does having it up on 2x4s give you under the car, it looks like you have a ton of room to work with.

2. Was it previously an automatic (I hope it was, we need more cars with three pedals), I don't see the shifter hole but maybe I'm blind?
If that question is addressed to me, I'm not there yet. I will be using a two post lift and trans jack.

My car was originally a Muncie.
 

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If that question is addressed to me, I'm not there yet. I will be using a two post lift and trans jack..
In the photos it looked as though the front wheels were sitting on a stack of 2x4s and that you were using them instead of jack stands to get extra clearance under the car while you were performing the modifications.
 

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Discussion Starter #15




If you look closely on the right hand "rib" on the trans you can see where the pivot ball bracket hits. Bellhousing will not sit flush on the dowels and trans because of it.

Nice work, Quicktime. I called D&D and they said it was alright to grind a little on the trans. I only need to take off maybe 1/8".

Also of note, the T56 mag has 4 bolts where the slave cyl would go and my LS1 T56 only has two; they said no worries there and just use two.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
More shots:


You can see the grinding up top and the section I had to take out.



You can see where the collar hits the bracket.


The bottom of the pivot ball bracket had MAJOR interference with the ribs on the front plate of the trans. I had to take out a section of it and grind it smooth to get the bellhousing to sit flush.

Once that was done and the bell was on, I noticed that the bearing collar did not fit either, again due to the pivot ball bracket. That just took some minor grinding.

Gun to my head, I think the bell and collar were desinged for the T56 Mag, not for the GM LS1 T56 like I'm attempting. Either that or I missed something simple and went way off course... which I really hope didn't happen.

At least now the bellhousing goes on and off with ease, and there's no binding in any spot.
 

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Collar from American Powertrain. My LS1 T56 only has two bolt holes. I do not know what the stud on there is for, and if I use it or not. There are two installation positions for it.
The stud is used if you are using a Hydro Collar style throwout bearing which uses the stud to not spin. I am using the same design on a T-5 transplant I am doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Update









I contacted Lakewood, where the tech was very nice but couldn't help too much, so he sent me to Quicktime's rep, who was also nice but couldn't help, and lo and behold a few days later I am contacted by the CEO/head of development at Quicktime to discuss my woes.

I will say that I got great service and support from them, and the CEO took a lot of time to explain to me the ins and outs of how everything goes, from spec'ing a bellhousing for production all the way to installation.

At the end of the day, I was "kind of" right with my post above. This bellhousing fits a Mag very well. However, it should also fit MOST of the LS1 T56's out there with no issue. Mine is an exception- there are 25+ different configurations of front plates out there, and I drew the short straw.

So for those of you at home, you will probably be fine, but in the off chance you are not, be aware that you may need to do what I did. Have no reservations about grinding though- that area is more than strong enough.

I will also be forwarding my trans tags to Quicktime so they can get a hold of one like it to test.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
:eek:

That is about the LAST thing I'd want to do to a transmission! :mad: Not saying that what you did is wrong though, you did what you had to do. Good thing you aren't shy with the grinder. Ah well, now it all fits, right?
Yeah, I didn't enjoy it in the least. I ended up calling 3 different T56 suppliers to verify that it was cool to do. I also took care to not leave any square edges.

At this point it looks like everything will bolt up fine. I am pretty much ready to start installing everything, just need to get the flywheel resurfaced. Then it all gets shoehorned in and I can get my driveshaft modified.

FWIW the Centerforce TO bearing I got (N1716) fits the American Powertrain collar very well.
 
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