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I'm looking at Hellwig's stuff @ Summit. I'm liking their 1 1/8" front bar. My question is how effective a rear bar is on a 3rd gen small block car. I've heard that they actually handle better without a rear bar. Is this true? Also, is a 1 1/8" front and 1" rear a mismatched combo? Seems like the rear bar is too close to the size of the front bar to me.
 

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I used to run a big *** sway bar in front, don't know the size at least 1 1/8" to 1 1/4" and no bar in the back. Car handled fine, if you go with one in the back I wouldn't go with one more than 3/4" to 7/8". You still need alittle bit of roll for street driving. Road racing is another story.
 

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Sway bar size selection is more about understeer/ oversteer balance. Most cars should be set up "neutral", however, many driving styles and race course designs can benefit from a little oversteer.

A rear wheel drive solid axle car will usually tend to oversteer a bit. Adding a rear sway bar usually increases oversteer, hence the reason you have heard handling is better without one. I run a 1 1/8" front and 3/4" rear sway bar. My balance tends to oversteer a bit, but throttle modulation is key to keeping the car at bay. Since 3rd gens can run a bigger tire, I would run a large sticky tire to help neutralize your handling, then add a rear bar and see what effect it has. For me its trial and error since no two setups are exactly the same.
 

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Sway bar size selection is more about understeer/ oversteer balance. Most cars should be set up "neutral", however, many driving styles and race course designs can benefit from a little oversteer.

A rear wheel drive solid axle car will usually tend to oversteer a bit. Adding a rear sway bar usually increases oversteer, hence the reason you have heard handling is better without one. I run a 1 1/8" front and 3/4" rear sway bar. My balance tends to oversteer a bit, but throttle modulation is key to keeping the car at bay. Since 3rd gens can run a bigger tire, I would run a large sticky tire to help neutralize your handling, then add a rear bar and see what effect it has. For me its trial and error since no two setups are exactly the same.
Now this is good info!!! Roll bars are tuning aids. Some might say band aids.

If you have your suspension already set up, then a roll bar can be used to tune in the drive that YOU like. One bar choice may not "feel" right to another driver.

Some folks like and can handle a lil more oversteer. But with the added "point" (turn in precision) they can get into trouble on the road, there are curbs. Azz end will like to come around without notice. You cant be as aggressive with the turn in, more control at the steering is needed and throttle control is paramount.

So many cars (porsche not included) are sent from the factory with understeer. So you plow through the turn if yer in too fast instead of looping the rear and taking out the folks in the mini van in the other lane.

The factories like to put in understeer cause the average driver can control a car that they pushed too fast in a turn better than one with oversteer. You will scrub off speed (and rims and paint) faster with understeer, and maybe get it back in the lane VS looping it, and you are done at that point.

What another guy said, you will like to drive a car on the streets with some body roll. Its kinda a gauge really. Ok, Im leaning way out, Im too fast. So you slow down. A car that is missing those dramatic feedback signs (race car drivers dont need that big of a signal) might get a guy and his car off the road.

Ive driven some large sedans that leaned WAY out at a fast clip on a track. I was wrecking tires, they were scrubbing themselves off, not as fast as the same car with a stiffer suspension, but really, not far off the mark. And a whole lot safer. But you could plow the thing WAY deep into the turn at too high of a speed with some heavy late braking knowing the understeer was gonna tear off alot of the speed (and tires). We were eating cars up though. Tough on tires and brakes. JR
 
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