Hyd TO brg or manual z bar linkage? Im running super street (duel friction) w ram hyd set up, had to make sure shim clearance was good. Yes they say to break in, but Ive known guys to install and hit track same night, usually with steel flywheel. Need some info on what you are running.. TO brg wise.
Super Street Pro Clutch
Hi all. Installed a McLeod Super Street Pro clutch in my 67 post car (original 327, double bumps w/2.02s, solid 30/30, Holley 750, Hookers, MSD, aluminum flywheel) and it slips A LOT! Called McLeod and they said to put around 1500 clutch iterations (500 miles city) for the sintered surface to mate with the flywheel. I’m a product of the ‘60s when we changed clutches and went to the track (or Main Street) and flogged it. This seems odd to me. Has anyone had experience with these clutches? I’ve got about 270 miles on it but it still slips as soon as the throttle is goosed. It takes a really light foot to get moving from a stop - worse before the engine is warm. Is this normal or am I looking to replace the disc (this one has pads on the flywheel side). Appreciate any advice. Joey
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Doesn't sound right. Are you sure you have enough freeplay?. Ernie.Hyd TO brg or manual z bar linkage? Im running super street (duel friction) w ram hyd set up, had to make sure shim clearance was good. Yes they say to break in, but Ive known guys to install and hit track same night, usually with steel flywheel. Need some info on what you are running.. TO brg wise.
I ran the ram power grip with the disk pads. I put the car together and took it out and started driving it. I never had any issues with it. Definitely wasn’t counting to 1500 or 500 miles or whatever they say.
I know RAM specifically notes in their promo material that no break in is required with their product,ready to go out of the box;however,that being said,I would advise a couple easy days to let the 4 fresh surfaces scuff in a bit,like brake pads. There's no way your clutch should be slipping from the beginning under normal driving conditions regardless of the brand or break in procedure. As stated above,ensure you have some freeplay but if that's fine,I would suggest you have either faulty pressure plate or disc.
AND we haven’t heard back from OP… maybe he’s yanking a trans.
Honestly, I think you may have your disk in backwards... Have you re-read the instructions completely?
Yanking... LolAND we haven’t heard back from OP… maybe he’s yanking a trans.
huhmm….tugging…pulling….🤔Yanking... Lol
Funny, Yanking... Not Canuks,huhmm….tugging…pulling….🤔
Hi all. Pulled the trans and found the shop doing the work used a long TO brg that kept pressure on the clutch fingers. The clutch was never fully released and slipped when enough power was applied. Put in a short bearing and no slipping. But I do need a longer threaded adjustment rod. Thanks for the feedback - got me going in the right direction. Joe
Hopefully not too much glazing on the disc/flywheel, if there is, they should go good. Their screw up.
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