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Discussion Starter #1
I've been piecing together parts for a front disc swap. Going the LS 98-02 F body route. Keeping drums in the rear for now. I scored a master cylinder and booster from a 2006 Corvette that I plan on using.

My question is, since the master/booster I will be using is for the disc/disc setup of the vette, can I run a standard disc/drum combo valve like this one?

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/GM-Disc-Drum-Proportioning-Valve-for-1-2-20-9-16-18-Outlets,9878.html

And only have to include a 10 psi residual pressure valve for the rear drums like this?

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wilw...MI58_DnZen3wIVkonICh0UuQTmEAQYAiABEgJLB_D_BwE

I like that the metering valve is built in to the standard combo valve vs. having to purchase a separate one of those if I were to go the adjustable prop valve route (trying to avoid).

I'm looking to keep this as simple as possible, and would like to just get in and drive once everything is installed. The car is strictly a cruiser, so I was hoping to avoid an adjustable prop valve if possible.

Will this potential set-up work?

Thank you for any help/suggestions.
 

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brakes

I just did the LS brake conversion using just the BRP brackets and what I could rob from a 98 LS Camaro. I had drum brakes all the way around. I turned my own hubs and followed the directions exactly. Only thing I had to do extra, was to knock out the lug bolts and replace them with longer. Autozone sells a part that will adapt your standard lines to the Metric LS stuff, if you're keeping the lines, which I did (for now).
I haven't replaced the M/C and don't have power brakes, so I will watch your thread to see what You get away with, as I probably will go the same route, or just grab a 73 M/C and Booster brackets and go that route. not sure yet.

At least my brakes work a whole hell of a lot better. Even though they are not power, I can throw stuff all over the car and set the nose down. YAAAY!

So if ya wanna go the cheapo route, the bracket is $89 and comes with instructions and a few pieces. You'll still have to get rotors and brakes of course, plus turn your hubs and install new lugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, I pretty much have everything needed other than the prop valve and soft lines. Luckily, I have a guy locally that can make custom braided lines using the newer banjo fitting on one end and the stock nova fitting on the other.

So far, this is what I have:

Caliper brackets from Church Boys $70
Bought new modified hubs from FlyNBye Performance with longer studs pressed in $125
Brand New Duralast Gold Rotors and Pads $70 on craigslist
2006 Corvette master and booster $40 craigslist
Rebuilt front calipers from Pep Boys $70
New Timken inner and outer bearings $36 Summit

Just need the lines and the prop valve/metering valve/residual pressure valve. Pretty sure with the type of booster/master I'm running I will need the reduced angle booster mount brackets made by Detroit Speed (part # 050302) on Summit for $25.

All in with the brake swap, I'm shooting for under $600 once I get the prop valve set up figured out. It's taken me about 8 months to slowly surf and find stuff to make it budget friendly. I think I'm going to save up and do tubular control arms when I make the swap as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What is the preferred setup of most? It looks like if I go the adjustable proportioning valve route, I will also need to purchase a separate metering valve to plumb in line with the front discs.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-8419
and
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Brak...MIid3Krcan3wIViB6GCh1JHAUrEAQYASABEgI0yvD_BwE

Or is it best to get the combo valve that already has the metering valve built in, but leave no room for adjustment for the rears?

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/GM-D...IcYueHdRuFGBvbbzbrSK6NdWTzD3OrtuXvxe-lDNFayYM

Thanks again for all the replies. There seem to be way too many options when it comes to the set-up. Almost like surfing for something to watch on Netflix...
 
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