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1968 Chevy II Nova, Central Arkansas
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For less than $200 I got the Competition Engineering bolt on frame connectors part number C3116 for my 1968 Nova. I also picked up a set of the front spring perch bolts (3791510) and clips (378276). The install was pretty straight forward. The first thing I did was soak all the old bolts with some PB Blaster. The undercarriage of my car is pretty rust free and the bolts all broke loose very easy and I did not have to replace the clips. I did use the new bolts since I had them. I used the lift to loosely get them bolted up then sat the car down on some ramps to load the suspension before tightening everything up.
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My original thought was after install to take my car to the muffler shop and get them welded in. Competition Engineering sent eight bolts to use on the front of subframe. They listed the bolts as "optional but recommended". I got those bolts in and now I am leaning towards not getting the welding done. They seem secure and I am not building a drag car. I like the idea that I can take them back off if I need to for some reason. I took the car for a short test ride and you can immediately tell that the car feels much more solid. Thanks Dad for coming out and handing me wrenches and offering advice.
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For less than $200 I got the Competition Engineering bolt on frame connectors part number C3116 for my 1968 Nova. I also picked up a set of the front spring perch bolts (3791510) and clips (378276). The install was pretty straight forward. The first thing I did was soak all the old bolts with some PB Blaster. The undercarriage of my car is pretty rust free and the bolts all broke loose very easy and I did not have to replace the clips. I did use the new bolts since I had them. I used the lift to loosely get them bolted up then sat the car down on some ramps to load the suspension before tightening everything up.
View attachment 445362
My original thought was after install to take my car to the muffler shop and get them welded in. Competition Engineering sent eight bolts to use on the front of subframe. They listed the bolts as "optional but recommended". I got those bolts in and now I am leaning towards not getting the welding done. They seem secure and I am not building a drag car. I like the idea that I can take them back off if I need to for some reason. I took the car for a short test ride and you can immediately tell that the car feels much more solid. Thanks Dad for coming out and handing me wrenches and offering advice.
View attachment 445363
I was there in a "go fetch" capacity for Bruce as he was under the car. Bruce made the install with minor issues that he took care of.
 

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1968 Chevy II Nova, Central Arkansas
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2,374 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Nice install, nice Nova and nice garage (y)
I love the color combination!
Thanks guys. Those are the original colors. It had one respray in the early 2000's. Funny the exterior was kind of fancy with two tone paint, chrome window trim and chrome beltline moldings. Then the inside was rubber floor mat, radio delete with a three on the tree.

I started this thread to show that it's really not that hard or expensive to install frame connectors. I had them sitting in my shop since February procrastinating because I thought it was going to be really hard.
 

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1971 Chevrolet Nova 350/350
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226 Posts
Thanks guys. Those are the original colors. It had one respray in the early 2000's. Funny the exterior was kind of fancy with two tone paint, chrome window trim and chrome beltline moldings. Then the inside was rubber floor mat, radio delete with a three on the tree.

I started this thread to show that it's really not that hard or expensive to install frame connectors. I had them sitting in my shop since February procrastinating because I thought it was going to be really hard.
I had a ‘72 that had the two tone. It was like almost a lime green(when new, very faded) and white with all the chrome trim like a vinyl top car has. You don’t see many of those.
Nice Nova! I need subframe connectors, too. Good inspiration.
 

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1969 Nova . . 2dr . . Chino Valley,Az USA
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Hi Guys - I sure hope everything is well & good in Arkansas.


A geart post - Bruce , and good info ; as my 69 car has never had "connectors" installed (it's on my 'too-do-list' , now for sure) .
And, u'r 68 IS Looking very sharp . . plus , I like th' shop . (y)
Thank you .

jim
 
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Thanks guys. Those are the original colors. It had one respray in the early 2000's. Funny the exterior was kind of fancy with two tone paint, chrome window trim and chrome beltline moldings. Then the inside was rubber floor mat, radio delete with a three on the tree.

I started this thread to show that it's really not that hard or expensive to install frame connectors. I had them sitting in my shop since February procrastinating because I thought it was going to be really hard.
Have you noticed any differences yet in the way the car behaves?
 

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1968 Chevy II Nova, Central Arkansas
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Have you noticed any differences yet in the way the car behaves?
I really haven't got to drive it too much but what little bit I did drive it the car felt much more solid to me. I originally wanted to get subframe connectors after I put a bigger engine in but now I am convinced any of our cars could benefit from this upgrade no matter what engine you are running.
 

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The reason I asked is that I am also considering these for the future... I would imagine feeling less "twist" especially on hard acceleration. When you get to drive it a while, it would be interesting to see what your observations are.
 

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1968 Chevy II Nova, Central Arkansas
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
When you get to drive it a while, it would be interesting to see what your observations are.
I have been driving it more and to me it feels better everywhere to me. I recently mad several changes to my car. I had it lowered with 2" lowering blocks and had my coil overs in front set about as low as you can with the current coil spring. I loved the low look but the ride was not great. I bent my shock plates on the rear and the bent the long bolts on my rear sway bar. I have since removed the lowering blocks, raised the front end back to normal ride height, got rid of my 13 year old hard Nitto's for some Michelin Pilot Sport tires and added the subframe connectors. My car is driving like it's on rails. It doesn't waller on dips in the road or anything and lays flat through the corners. I do have CBR upper and lower control arms and a sway bar on the front but they have been on there for a while.
 

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Very nice.. I put the exact connectors on my 68. They went right in..sorta. After replacing the nut clips and bolts everything went as planned. I have yet to drill and install the four bolts as of yet. They look like they fit inthere ok. I was wondering if you had to take out the body mounting bolt to put those four bolts in the connector though. No biggie if it has to come out to put them on... I may do that this weekend.
They do make a difference as you stated, the car does feel much more solid....well as solid as a 1968 can..(y) I do have new subframe bushings, so that helps a lot. I didn't go with the nylon or aluminum bushings though...
 
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