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364

i like the 364 deal using a 350 crank and offset grinding the rod journals down to small journal size to 3.562 stroke. Good way to make use of a 350 crank that has a bad rod journal. Lower bearing speed of the small journal rods , should be lighter too. If you have a stock deck block , you might be able to do a slight .005 mill to clean it up and check the deck clearence to see how much a 350 piston is out of the bore. Silvolite tech told me their pistons would be fine with as much as .040 off of the deck without nitrous so it would make for a cheapie stroker but still a stroker.
 

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i like the 364 deal using a 350 crank and offset grinding the rod journals down to small journal size to 3.562 stroke. Good way to make use of a 350 crank that has a bad rod journal. Lower bearing speed of the small journal rods , should be lighter too. If you have a stock deck block , you might be able to do a slight .005 mill to clean it up and check the deck clearence to see how much a 350 piston is out of the bore. Silvolite tech told me their pistons would be fine with as much as .040 off of the deck without nitrous so it would make for a cheapie stroker but still a stroker.
and those little strokers rev fast!!!
 

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you can get a 396 with a.030" over 350 and a 3.875" stroke crank OR with the same crank and a .060" overbore you have a 401 cube SBC
 

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How deep is your pocket book?
You can pretty much make anything from 355 CID up to 401 or maybe even squeeze it up to 427. It all depends on your individual block as to how much you can bore and stroke it. Although to get some of these off the wall sizes you will need custom pistons, rods and stroked crank in addation to the machine work on the block.

The reason 383 is so popular is there are a ton of stroker kits in this size and almost all 350 blocks can be bored .030" over and stroked to 3.75". It's basiclly .030 over pistons with a 400 crank.

377 used to be pretty popular.
My 388 is .060" over with a 3.75" stroke.
 

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Like what was said the 383 is popular for pricing. Off the shelf parts and minimal grinding work. JR
 

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The 391" I mentioned is made by offset grinding a 400 crank to use small journal 327 style rods. The last one I did used a $300 Chinese crank, $130 rods, and $200 KB hyperutectic pistons--It ran 10.25/131 in a 71 Nova.

The small journal rods will allow little, if any grinding to the block.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
That 391 sounds pretty neat. What can it rev to? Do you have any other specifics about the one you built? Heads, cam, Compression.
Also when you're clearancing a block for a 400 crank are you cutting material away for the counter weights on the crank or is it for the rods because of the longer stroke? Thanks
 

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You clearance the block to clear the crank throws. Not all blocks will have to be clearanced. I built one several years ago that needed no clearancing.
 

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Don't know, but I didn't have to clearance anything while a friend of mine built one and had to clearance the block.
 

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That 391 sounds pretty neat. What can it rev to?
As high as your wallet will allow--this thing about certain sizes of small block being able to rev higher than another is nonsense--all mine go 7500, no matter what size stroke. I have a friend with a 439" small block that shifts over 8000.
I did kick the rods out of one of the 391's after a 9000+rpm mishap in the waterbox! The little 40 year old rods didn't like free revving that high.

Do you have any other specifics about the one you built? Heads, cam, Compression
Heads were old ported AFR 220's, 13.9-1 compression, [email protected]/.630 lift roller cam (ancient Crane design) Victor Jr./850 Holley.

Is there really that much of a difference in casting one 350 to another?
Major differences--I did one that needed NO grinding, and another identical combo that took a LOT of clearancing.
 

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As high as your wallet will allow--this thing about certain sizes of small block being able to rev higher than another is nonsense--all mine go 7500, no matter what size stroke. I have a friend with a 439" small block that shifts over 8000.
QUOTE]

Yup, you just needs heads that can move enough air at 8000 RPM. You heads and cam will determin your RPM range. You put a set of heads that can feed a 350 to 6000+ RPM on a 302 and 7000+ RPM is easy.
 

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I had to grind on the block for rod and crank clearance and on the rods for cam clearance. There is no way to tell ahead of time with out actually test fitting the parts.



 

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I had to grind on the block for rod
I wouldnt be grinding the rod. Block relief is fine, just me, I wouldnt be grinding on the rods. Did you balance it after grinding. I think all engines should be balanced, rotating assembly. I just dont like the idea of grinding the rod. JR
 

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I wouldnt be grinding the rod. Block relief is fine, just me, I wouldnt be grinding on the rods. Did you balance it after grinding. I think all engines should be balanced, rotating assembly. I just dont like the idea of grinding the rod. JR
Grinding on the rods after balancing would put the crank into over balance which is fine as long as its not under balanced.
 

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If you look at the top rod, you can see a very minimal amount was taken off the rod and rod bolt head. Yes, it was balanced after all the grinding and test fitting was done.
 
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