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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
What happened to my alignment, on my 1967 put new Ball Joints uppers and lowers and Right stuff spindles and calipers on for a disc brake conversion right wheel stayed in check but left wheel toe in a whole lot any advise as to what I did wrong when I reassembled it
 

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Is it possible that you had a bent steering arm on your stock spindles..?
Are your new spindles the a proper matched set meant to be on your vehicle application..?
Did you have a bent ball joint..?
 

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Even just replacing ball joints can change your alignment. Replacing spindles as well almost certainly will change the alignment. If everything's tight and things still don't line up, why not just take it in for an alignment?
 

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I have had to adjust my toe in before. It’s not that difficult.

You will need to have a little bit of space around the front of the car..
You’ll need to settle the front suspension by rolling the car forwards about 10 feet as you are coming to a stop you need to make sure the steering wheel is centered straight ahead.. Don’t worry about what the wheels are doing just set the steering wheel up as it should be going straight down the road. If your toe is as far off as you stated in your OP your tires will be scuffing or dragging over the pavement when moving forwards. Just center the steering wheel. Now you have to get out and look at your wheels and determine which direction who will need to correct the toe. If you look from the back of the car down the sides you can visually line up the outer edge of the front and rear wheels you can do this from the front as well. If you are toe in or toe out you will be able to see it. Now you will make adjustments at the tie rod adjuster sleaves to correct the toe. It is easier to adjust the toe if the wheel is slightly off the ground so have a rolling floor jack on hand to lift the wheel off the ground. Lift at the control arm just enough to get the wheel off of the ground. If you have two floor jacks you can lift both wheels equally and make your adjustments. Make a mental note of where the adjuster sleeve is oriented before you make any adjustments and count your turns of the sleeves as you go. Because of the right and left hand threads on the sleeve and hardware any rotational adjustments you make are doubled in there effects. A quarter rotation will equal a half turn, a half rotation will equal a complete turn, and so on. By this I mean that on a single nut and bolt a quarter rotation of the nut there will be a distance change up or down the bolt of directly proportionate to the rotations a 1;1 ratio. Because of the adjuster sleeve being effectively two nuts and bolts with opposing thread pitch you have a. 2;1 ratio. So the effect are double what your input is..

Anyway, make your adjustments eyeballing it until it looks about right thighten it up set it down and take it for a spin.. See how it feels. Is the wheel centered? Is it pulling right or left? Does it feel loose or twitchy not enough toe. Is it pigeon toed..? Meaning too much toe.. You can repeat the process above to dial in the toe to your liking.. You will make quarter and half rotation adjustments to fine tune the settings.
 

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On a 62-67 front end, the camber is adjusted with an eccentric at the inner pivot of the lower control arm. These eccentrics are well known to slip. Let's say for discussion purposes that you get the front end aligned correctly and then one of the eccentrics slip. Not only does your camber go wacko, the toe in goes even more wacko! I had this happen years ago while driving home from the alignment shop. I couldn't even go around a residential street corner at 15 mph without squealing the tires.

The fix for this is an eccentric lockout plate that won't slip that goes on the lower control arm in place of the eccentric washer. Global West has them. I built my own which have finer adjustment than the GW ones but they work the same. I figured the alignment shop would have a problem with what to do to adjust the camber so I started doing my own wheel alignment too.

Of course all the more expensive fixes for 62-67 front suspension fix that too - CPP, Church Boys, tube front clips, etc.
 

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True the eccentrics have a known history of slipping on their own and this will indeed through the camber and toe off.. I totally forgot about that issue as I replaced my stock arms for a CPP Mini subframe kit soon after I got my 64.
 
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