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Discussion Starter #1
I am restoring a steering wheel for my Nova. I want to paint it black and I'm wondering what others have used for paint. I have some Rustoleum rattle can black, POR-15, and a couple of other rattle can paints too. My concern is what will hold up, long term, to body oils, dirt on hands, etc.

Is one brand better than another?

Thx,

Ed
 

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I use a single stage urethane with hardener.
You can add a flattener but I didn't as my rough hands will
knock down some of the gloss.
I would think any non catylized product could soften in the summer heat.
 

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For what it's worth......
I recently painted a junky wheel to make due,while i attended the Mini-nats. I used a quality wax/grease remove to soften the wheel slightly,then sanded and red scotchbrited the whole wheel. i flushed it again with wax/grease remover,allowed it to flash-dry and began applying light coats of rattle can acrylic semigloss. i wasted no time masking the chrome accents and simply painted over them(wasn't looking to have it last longer than the Labour day weekend...). i gave it several LIGHT coats and allowed it to bake in the sun for a couple of hours.
Once installed,i scraped the soft paint from the chrome accents with my thumb nail and let it sit untouched overnight.
Fast forward 1 month.....
It's holding up VERY well. As an Automotive Painter i realize this isn't the "correct" method,but i'm convinced that the proper preparation was the key to my success and the fact that the wheel "softened" slightly allowed the rattle can junk to really adhere. If i used an activated 2K type paint,i think it would be almost indestructible.
Good luck!
Leftcoast Carl.:)
 

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^^ Both above posts are excellent.

Just DO NOT use POR-15 for this Ed. It will not work for this application.....:no::no::no:
 

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The POR-15 base product is designed to work directly over rust.

However, they do offer engine enamels and high temp paints as well.

Info at: http://www.por15.com/
Alot of the POR15 products do not stand up to direct UV rays either.
A guy gave me a driveshaft that he coated with POR15, I left it outside a few weeks and the sun flattened the top, the bottom was still glossy.
 

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I used a base coat, clear coat urethane paint. The same paint used on the body and it has held up great for 16 years:yes:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I used a base coat, clear coat urethane paint. The same paint used on the body and it has held up great for 16 years:yes:
I'd give that a try if it came in a rattle can. And I don't think it does, but please correct me if I am wrong.
 

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used a single stage urethane with hardener. been painted 2 years and
lookes just like it did the day it was painted

 

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as a bump for this thread, and the one linked above...

when the steering wheel is painted, would there be any benefit to baking the paint?

Thanks. ;)
 

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Baked 2K paint is tougher than air dryed paint but i guess that the difference dossn't matter in this case. I did a steering wheel from a '66 Toronado in the garage without baking and it holds well too.
 
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