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Discussion Starter #1
I have power to the starter solenoid when I turn the ignition switch to start but it will not engage the solenoid. I can jump the S terminal to the battery and it turns over. I installed a new starter switch and I still can't get the solenoid to engage. There has to be a reason. I'm stumped. I may pull the wiring harness off my other car and see if that is the problem. The car has started in the past. I have a small block 350 in the car and the under hood wiring harness is 6 cyl. I have 12.7 volts to the S terminal. Any ideas?
 

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12.7V to the S terminal indicates to me that there is no current flowing. If the solenoid coil was in the circuit the voltage at the S terminal would be less, determined by the resistance of the coil compared to the resistance of the rest of the circuit. How much voltage do you have at other points in the circuit, i.e. battery, ignition switch, NSS, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
This might help anyone that is having issues with the starter. It seems to be a ground problem. I hope to do a continuity test for ground tomorrow. I have to dig out the test equipment. I'll post the results.


 

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have same issue with a 63 vert (though still a inline 6). was going to swap the wiring harness with an extra, too.

curious to hear what solves your problem.

-Rusty
 

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Discussion Starter #5
have same issue with a 63 vert (though still a inline 6). was going to swap the wiring harness with an extra, too.

curious to hear what solves your problem.

-Rusty
I have had a neighbor that works at Honeywell trying to figure out the problem. We have tested voltage, resistance and everything that we can think of with no luck. There is a neutral safety switch and it's good. We still have voltage from the switch to the solenoid "S" terminal. It's beginning to look like something is causing a voltage drop from the switch to the solenoid. I was hoping someone had this problem and found a resolution. I have a guy coming by shortly that is really good at finding this kind of problem. Later.
 

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Installed a new harness in the engine compartment. We did find that the console neutral safety switch had some contact issues so I cleaned the contact surfaces and it seems to work fine now. I will reinstall the starter and solenoid tomorrow and see what happens. I see that the wiring diagram shows the column shift safety switch is on the steering column. I'll bet it's a pain to work on.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I may have a weak battery. I'll change it tomorrow. This video is the best one I have seen. It offers solutions that I think I can use to solve the problem.

 

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When checking connections at the starter you should show battery voltage on the big stud with the large cable connected to it.

You should then be showing a little less voltage on the S terminal with a factory purple wire connected to it when the key is ONLY in the crank position.

The other small stud terminal will show voltage when the key is in the run position AND the crank position. This would be the yellow wire on my below picture.



Jim
 

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the aforementioned '63 vert doesn't even click, yet has a new battery. can't wait to get back at it.

-Rusty
 

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Your battery is new but can you check the cranking amps? sometimes you get a bad battery off the shelve reads 12volt but does not have all the cells up to par.
 

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I have power to the starter solenoid when I turn the ignition switch to start but it will not engage the solenoid. I can jump the S terminal to the battery and it turns over. I installed a new starter switch and I still can't get the solenoid to engage. There has to be a reason. I'm stumped. I may pull the wiring harness off my other car and see if that is the problem. The car has started in the past. I have a small block 350 in the car and the under hood wiring harness is 6 cyl. I have 12.7 volts to the S terminal. Any ideas?
I'm not having any luck finding the problem. I have tried everything I can think of. I put the battery on charge and have 13+ volts. I can jumper from the battery to the S terminal and it engages. I have 13+ volts from the starter switch to the
"S" terminal and it will not engage. I even ran a ground jumper from the battery negative terminal to the starter housing and still nothing. I'm going to a guy that is probably the best in the state later today and see if he has any idea what is wrong. We'll see.
 

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Try bypassing your neutral safety switch (connect the 2 ignition wires from the switch together) and see what happens.
A very long time ago, I was having a similar problem as you are seeing... All voltage and ohm test on ignition circuit looked good, but no crank.
Then as I was checking ohms on this circuit, my foot holding the clutch pedal moved a little bit (but not lifted) and I saw the ohm meter needle move.
  • Note: My car was a manual, and the neutral safety switch was connected to the clutch pedal.
Seems that the internal components within the neutral safety switch were worn. They would make enough contact during testing, but loose the connection when actually trying to start the engine (increased load thru the switch caused the failure). I replaced the neutral safety switch and all was well.

I guess it would be possible for the same thing to happen to worn connections within the ignition switch too.
 

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1. I put the battery on charge and have 13+ volts.

2. I can jumper from the battery to the S terminal and it engages.

3. I have 13+ volts from the starter switch to the "S" terminal and it will not engage.
Using what you have said and referring to the picture below you can jumper from the battery to the S terminal and it engages. I'm assuming you are doing just that in that you have a test wire connected to the battery positive post and take the other end down to the starters "S" terminal and it cranks over and basically are bypassing the big positive cable from the battery positive post down to the starter.

If this is true and how you are indeed testing things, do this and see what voltage you have down at the starter stud where the main positive battery cable attaches (this would be terminal "A" in my below picture). One could also take a short wire or a screwdriver and connect terminal "A" to terminal "B" in my below picture and the starter solenoid should clunk and the starter motor start cranking over the engine.

2020-6-11 (1) Stevesnovasite Help.jpg


Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Try bypassing your neutral safety switch (connect the 2 ignition wires from the switch together) and see what happens.
A very long time ago, I was having a similar problem as you are seeing... All voltage and ohm test on ignition circuit looked good, but no crank.
Then as I was checking ohms on this circuit, my foot holding the clutch pedal moved a little bit (but not lifted) and I saw the ohm meter needle move.
  • Note: My car was a manual, and the neutral safety switch was connected to the clutch pedal.
Seems that the internal components within the neutral safety switch were worn. They would make enough contact during testing, but loose the connection when actually trying to start the engine (increased load thru the switch caused the failure). I replaced the neutral safety switch and all was well.

I guess it would be possible for the same thing to happen to worn connections within the ignition switch too.
I used a piece of #12 solid copper wire, flattened the ends, bent it in a "U" shape and bypassed the neutral switch.
For some reason I can get voltage to the "S" terminal and the solenoid clicks but will not engage the starter. It's all new. I may have to replace the harness under the dash. My neighbor is obsessed with finding the problem. I guess I am too.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Using what you have said and referring to the picture below you can jumper from the battery to the S terminal and it engages. I'm assuming you are doing just that in that you have a test wire connected to the battery positive post and take the other end down to the starters "S" terminal and it cranks over and basically are bypassing the big positive cable from the battery positive post down to the starter.

If this is true and how you are indeed testing things, do this and see what voltage you have down at the starter stud where the main positive battery cable attaches (this would be terminal "A" in my below picture). One could also take a short wire or a screwdriver and connect terminal "A" to terminal "B" in my below picture and the starter solenoid should clunk and the starter motor start cranking over the engine.

View attachment 405834

Jim
When the switch is turned to start, the solenoid clicks but will not energize the starter motor. I measured around 13 volts at the S terminal. Sometimes it clicks, sometimes it doesn't. I'm thinking I may need a new harness inside the car. It seems that the starter circuit can't find ground thru the solenoid. The remote starter switch will start the car but that's not something I want permanently.
 

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When the switch is turned to start, the solenoid clicks but will not energize the starter motor. I measured around 13 volts at the S terminal. Sometimes it clicks, sometimes it doesn't. I'm thinking I may need a new harness inside the car. It seems that the starter circuit can't find ground thru the solenoid. The remote starter switch will start the car but that's not something I want permanently.

Something is being missed or not stated/troubleshot well because if the solenoids "S" terminal is getting 13V from the remote starter switch OR the interior wiring, then it would work either way. You are sending the SAME power to the SAME stud on the solenoid. Just like in a house, we have two 120V lines coming into the house and it will not matter which one we use to a light, either will work.

Jim
 

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Joe Buddy - - aren't you in Phx ?

Get - in try too start = turn the ign key ; (column shifter ?) ; while trying too start = move your 'shifter handle'
at the same time …………. worth a shot . Thinking that your 'neutral start switch' may need a "jolt" .

Like not completing the circuit . just thinking …...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Joe Buddy - - aren't you in Phx ?

Get - in try too start = turn the ign key ; (column shifter ?) ; while trying too start = move your 'shifter handle'
at the same time …………. worth a shot . Thinking that your 'neutral start switch' may need a "jolt" .

Like not completing the circuit . just thinking …...
Joe Buddy - - aren't you in Phx ?

Get - in try too start = turn the ign key ; (column shifter ?) ; while trying too start = move your 'shifter handle'
at the same time …………. worth a shot . Thinking that your 'neutral start switch' may need a "jolt" .

Like not completing the circuit . just thinking …...
I'm at 59th Ave and Union Hills. The neutral safety switch is on the automatic floor shift. (Original 66 SS) Tried it in Park and Neutral. Nada. No trabajo hermano. No serve'. PS This is a 66 Station Wagon. I tried the harness off my 66 2dr HT and still no luck. I guess I'll be buying a new harness from C II Only.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I'm at 59th Ave and Union Hills. The neutral safety switch is on the automatic floor shift. (Original 66 SS) Tried it in Park and Neutral. Nada. No trabajo hermano. No serve'. PS This is a 66 Station Wagon. I tried the harness off my 66 2dr HT and still no luck. I guess I'll be buying a new harness from C II Only.
Did a complete voltage test on the ignition wiring and there too many connections that have voltage drop. Plus, the neutral safety switch is not going to work after all. I'm ordering all new wiring. Thanks for all the input Guy's
 
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