[blakesgst]

Hey guys,

I've been dealing with this off and on over the last few years. To many other projects have kept me from really nailing it down but, I have some time freed up and am determined to get it solved. Here is the issue....

Sometimes, when I try to start my 69 I just get a click, like the battery or starter is dead. I've replace the starter twice and the battery twice and installed new battery cables and I think at one point even a new grounding cable for the starter as well, the issue is still haunting me. At some point I figured out that if I make a jumper wire from the starter straight to the battery, it will kick over no problem. So, I see there is a purple wire that connects to the starter and goes along the firewall and from the looks of the wiring diagram, goes to the ignition switch? Since I am getting a clicking noise it seems like the purple wire is making contact but maybe there is a ground associated with that ignition switch? Can anyone tell me if I am looking for a specific grounding location associated with the ignition switch or have any other suggestions?

Thanks,

Blake

 

[Custom Jim]

Make sure the battery is charged up.

Next try get in the car, turn on the headlights,and try cranking it over.

If the headlights go off, you have a main power connection issue(s).

If the headlights stay on (and they may dim a bit but not go off), while trying to crank but still not cranking over but still clicking then you will have to start tracing the wiring down to and through the neutral/clutch safety switch, possibly the firewall bulkhead connection, or ????.

I know you said you replace some things but hopefully you do not have the cheap 99 cent battery terminal ends.

Jim

 

[seventynovaSS]

These damn things should be illegal!
They are just a Band Aid that will eventually cause no end of grief.
I saw a beautifully restored C10 pickup on display in a body shop,
had the hood open, and it had those pieces of crap on both terminals,
complete with nice green corrosion. OMG!
Buy a new pre-made cable, or have the local battery dealer made you
a new set, properly crimped with sealing shrink tube covering the joints.

Sorry about the rant, but those things just really irk me.

 

[Custom Jim]

These damn things should be illegal!
They are just a Band Aid that will eventually cause no end of grief.
I saw a beautifully restored C10 pickup on display in a body shop,
had the hood open, and it had those pieces of crap on both terminals,
complete with nice green corrosion. OMG!
Buy a new pre-made cable, or have the local battery dealer made you
a new set, properly crimped with sealing shrink tube covering the joints.

Sorry about the rant, but those things just really irk me.

View attachment 454280

I got caught trying to help another person at a car show with those but they were under tape and go to find out, the main power that went to the alternator, regulator, and the rest of the car besides the starter was under one of the bolts with a crimped on ring while the main battery cable was under the clamp part.

He had an issue of the starter clicking but not turning the motor over and go to find out the part of the cable clamped down was all corroded and once he cut the end of the cable off, stripped the insulation back to good clean wire he redid the inside of the clamp part with some sandpaper and then once this new connection under the clamp was made he was good to go again but I stressed to him very sternly, PUT the proper end on the wire. Hopefully he listened and if I see him again this year I will check it out.

I cringe at shows or cruises seeing really nicely done things and then spot those ends and wonder what were they thinking ?

Jim

 

[blakesgst]

Thanks for the replies guys, I have premade cables with solid/crimped ends on them already. Also, I forgot to mention that I bought these cables to replace the junky ones I had previously thinking that the old ones may have been the issue. At that time I made sure my grounds were good from the battery to the frame etc as well using a grinder to clean off a good spot etc and installed a new alternator thinking maybe there was an odd connection issue there or it wasn't charging the battery. Also today, I tried 2 batteries and a booster with the same results, just a click noise at the starter after i drove around for 20 minutes or so and tried to restart. I'll try your suggestions tomorrow Jim and report back. I also have this weird feeling that, it only does this after the engine is warm....

Blake

 

[Redrider66SS]

Thanks for the replies guys, I have premade cables with solid/crimped ends on them already. Also, I forgot to mention that I bought these cables to replace the junky ones I had previously thinking that the old ones may have been the issue. At that time I made sure my grounds were good from the battery to the frame etc as well using a grinder to clean off a good spot etc and installed a new alternator thinking maybe there was an odd connection issue there or it wasn't charging the battery. Also today, I tried 2 batteries and a booster with the same results, just a click noise at the starter after i drove around for 20 minutes or so and tried to restart. I'll try your suggestions tomorrow Jim and report back. I also have this weird feeling that, it only does this after the engine is warm....

Blake

you said..... I also have this weird feeling that, it only does this after the engine is warm....

so it starts good when cold ? when the engine is warm you could be heating the starter solenoid from headers an causing the click on the starter .i put a heat wrap on my power master brand starter an now no more problem.

 

[blakesgst]

Redrider, I had read some other posts about that as well but, it does work when I use a jumper wire from the starter straight to the battery still.

I'm not sure if it matters for any reason but, the starter in the car now is a Jegs mini starter.

Blake

 

[blakesgst]

Update this morning, Car fired right up no problem. I let it run for 15 minutes to get it warmed up, shut it down, and re started it twice with no issues at all. I'm going to take it for a drive later this afternoon and see if a bit more heat will replicate the issue or if its just some other gremlin to chase down. I checked the battery voltage before starting it this morning and it was sitting at 12.6 after sitting for about 20 hours over night. Tested it again while running, 14.0 so it appears the charging system is working correctly and the battery is stable. I forgot to mention that this all started while I was at the inspection station yesterday and the guys there tested the battery and said it was good. I'll update later today after my drive.

Blake