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Discussion Starter #1
When trying to square up my rear, the "pin" in the leaf springe is pretty much covered up by the laser cut spacer plate supplied with the springs. Even if it wasn't covered, there isn't a hole or recess in the bottom of the spring perch on the axle to line it up with. So.... Do you just line the "pin' in the spring up with the center of the axle? Where's the best place to measure from? The perch is beat up alittle so measuring from there i could be off as much as an 1/8". What's the minimum the rear can be out of alignment and still track straight? What am I missing? Help!
 

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I will be real interested in this answer.I assume you have standard GM mono leaf spring perches that key the spring from the bottom? A four wheel alignment machine will tell if the rear is square but how to adjust it and keep it there after making it square is the issue.I have Ford/mopar type spring pads on mine and on an alignment rack the rear is not square and I have been pondering how to resolve this myself.I have not found any place to get a good measurement from.
 

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well if you want to square your rear pick a point somewhere forward ( like trans crossmember ) to measure from then messure from the left side of crossmember to left wheel and then measure from the right side of crossmember to right wheel then from the right side of crossmember to left wheel and left side of crossmember to right wheel this should square up things you also what to do a wheel base measurement as well ( center of front hub to center of rear axle shaft ) just to make sure things arent ascue i dont know what the wheelbase is on second gens but its 110" on first gens
 

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DONT ASSUME that they got it square back in the day when these things were built!!!

Meaning not to use mounting holes as reference points. I speak from experience. I use the front spring holes on my 67 and now that ive truly squared the rear end my passenger side four link bars are 1/4" longer than the drivers side.
The best way is to run a string from front of the car to the rear using 'center' points you pick as center and go perpendicular from there. My car hasnt been hit and you'd be suprised how far out of square things are. I ended up using a center line and placing the rear where I wanted it, square to the center line of the car. If your off a little its not the end of the world, these things were off from the factory and with the spongy suspension bushing things moved a bit anyway.
From the door jamb back to the tip of the opposite rear quarter panel measurement was 3/4" different from side to side. No wonder the trunk gaps were off!
 

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Springs

The lower pin in the leaf[Mono] springs ,lines up with the lower shock plate hole
,in Multi-Leaf Springs, lines up with the bolt and nut that goes holds the leafs togeter. The bolt comes dowm from the top and the nut on the lower and holds the leafs togeter. The head of the bolt lines up with the center of the spring perch, the lower nut lines up with the lower shock plate. Paul​
 

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Springs

If the aligment is off, on rear of a Nova,it is the bolt broken and or lower shock plate not lined up right. Also a twist rear axle housing. Paul
 

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if you don't have the rubber in between the spring & the lower plate the hole for the locator pin will be way too big and allow too much slop and the rearend can be off alot. Also is true if the rubber piece is all worn out.

Miles
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It doesn't say anything about reusing the rubber piece when installing the Caltracts. It comes with a drawing showing just the steel plate (size of the rubber piece) in between the leaf spring and the perch.
 

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Get rid of the rubber if you can, especially with lowering blocks.

I like to do a cross measurement when trying to square up. Pick a frame point on one side and measure to the opposing side at a reference along with a front to rear. This will give you the best side to side and front to rear alignment. Front spring bolt center to rearend mount corner, x pattern and front to rear etc...
 

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Get rid of the rubber if you can, especially with lowering blocks.
Really?

I was planning to use poly pads between the spring and lower shock mount (under spring) and "sandwich" the lowering blocks with poly pads (above spring). What's the disadvantage to this? Is it s stability issue?
 

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I had the poly pads after the rubber was worn, then when I added the pinion wedges I also added a slight lowering block and ditched the pads.

Really! It was a pain in the arse, so I ditched them. :yes:
 
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