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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, I am looking at refreshing the suspension on my 1970 Nova. As with everyone id like to keep things on a tight budget but still do it right. So i am looking for recommendations of parts i missed or usually shouldn't bother replacing.


Here is the list of parts i am looking at replacing:

Moog:
ball joints upper
ball joints lower
pitman arm
tierod inner
tierod outer
adjusting sleeve
front coil springs 5536 cut or 6320 possibly cut? (see below)

Energy suspension bushing kit:
upper control arm bushings
lower control arm bushings

Hotchkis:
2407C 1.5 inch dropleaf kit

Bilstein:
front shocks
rear shocks

Background: The car is a 1970 250 I6 car with a 350 in it now, I intend to primarily highway drive the car, but would like it setup for the occasional autocross or spirited drive or evasive maneuver. I'm not shooting for a hard racecar, but that said my current daily is an old Miata with a pretty bone shattering ride and i can put up with that. The car currently has monoleafs so naturally id like to move away from those and get something safer/stiffer. Currently the car has 215 tires on all 4 corners, Id like to see it on some summer 235s all the way around.

Front Spring question:
I know Mr Pozzi recommends the 6308 springs for a mostly stocker like what i have, but being that that is supposedly the equivalent to what is in the car now (6308 is the stock replacement of a 250 I6 with no ac) I wouldn't mind a bit harsher/tighter ride. I was considering the 6320 and cutting just a hint off to get the extra lb/in and my current ride height (sagged 6308's) or doing the 5536 and cutting it down to 14 inches like Mr Pozzi mentions.

Rear Spring question:
With rear springs the only answer i see recommended here are the Hotchkis setup or Detroit speed (third gen, so to my knowledge CBR doesn't have a spring for me.) Being that i would like it a little rougher i wouldn't mind the lowering and the Hotchkis comes with bushings and shackles. I'd also be interested if anyone has used any lower buck alternatives they didn't hate? The Hotchkis setup is defiantly a budget stretch.

Camber change?
Other side mentions would be if anyone has done the Guldstrand mod on a street car and not regretted it, or the proforged taller balljoints... Worth it on a primarily street car? Does anyone have any good alignment specs for a street car

The list:
Did i miss any suspension parts to replace?
Front moog springs, 5536 cut? 6320 maybe cut? or 6308?
Rear springs, Hotchkis vs Detroit speed vs anyone got a better idea?
Guildstrand vs tall balljoints vs don't bother?

Thanks guys, I know this has been covered a million times, why i tried to condense this to one thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Shameful bump,

but i also am struggling looking at the rear shocks. Bilstein lists two part numbers for mono and multi leaf setups. It is hard to tell what the differences are. I have already asked Summit, but i figure its worth mentioning here for posterity.

For reference the shocks in question are AK2071 and 24009294 for mono and multi respectively. Considering i am looking at jumping to the Hotchkis setup on the rear i'd like to only buy shocks once.

Help?
 

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the Hotchkis dropleaf kit is a multi-leaf one, so you would need order Bilstein 24-009294 if you want to go with the performance line.
 

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I went with caltracs on my green nova and the ride nice and absolutely make the car hook up and go straight on the street

Just my 2 cents

Mike
 

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I would do that Hellwig front sway bar, QA1 double adjustable coil overs (front) so you can adjust ride height, drop spindles to get the front geometry right, Eaton multileafs (they will build you whatever rate you want), Moog rebuild parts, and Qa1 or similar double adjustable rear shocks. Make sure you grease the heck out of the eurethane bushings or they will squeak. I ran Mopar SuperStock leaf springs on mine (only because they were on it when I bought it). I clamped the front of the spring to eliminate wheel hop. I'm sure Caltracs improve traction, but I didn't like having something hanging down that made people think my car might be fast.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I forgot to mention i was looking at doing a sway bar in a future upgrade (why i don't list any of the bushings for it.) I was thinking a 1.125 inch solid just because they are cheap from Summit CPP POL or others.

The Caltracs are pretty cool id never seen those before, Would they help a car that isn't intended for drag racing though? My WC T5 transmission will grenade long before i have trouble launching i'm afraid. (Looking at building one in the stronger case... but that's for a later date. I kinda like the T5 though.)

I actually just started thinking of the QA1 coilovers right before you guys mentioned them. Was thinking the GE401-10550A just because i don't particularly trust my ability to tune shocks. I've had adjustables before and they just always seemed to be wrong. Adjustable ride height is a nice benefit though and i could avoid cutting. I will do more homework on QA1 and see if thats a better route than the stock setup with Moog/Hotchkis springs and Bilsteins.

I've been reading on spindles aswell, figure ill address those when i address the brakes as the car currently has drums up front. Perhaps someone cut the springs in the past or they have sagged but i am afraid of going any lower. Supposedly the stock I6 springs lower other cars an inch.

As for my rear Bilstein question i gave Hotchkis a call about it, he mentioned that for their branded shocks they only have one part. But the difference for the others is likely as Pragmatist mentioned the lower mount differs. The Hotchkis guy said if i am reusing the old mono perch i should probably stick with the mono part number on shocks. That said it looks like alot of the shocks just have the little bolt as a separate piece, so maybe i could reuse the one that came off my car.

I'm about ready to pull the trigger on all the Moog parts because that's pretty universally needed no matter which route i go. I figure i can Guildstrand mod it later if i want the tall ball joint geometry, and id like to keep most of the "consumable" suspension components normal part numbers.

Thanks for the responses guys.
 
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