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Discussion Starter #1
After going nuts and having to use a plasma cutter to melt out the spun bolts with J nuts,
I decided a stupid design must be corrected.
not sure if anyone else had this issue, but im sure its not just me.
here is my solution, make them studs:


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I like the solution. Look, the captured J-nuts weren't for the convenience of guys like me, years and years down the road fixing one of these cars. I love this site for the solutions for the problems of age and rust in these cars so that they can be saved, preserved and driven. Dig it.
 

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1969 Nova . . 2dr . . Chino Valley,Az USA
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4,756 Posts
Well , for me - - - it's called = " Never - Seez " - - - - and, use-it ; it works . You can find out - - - - go work in
the " Copper - Mine " , we hold the "Mill together " with this stuff . We, also used this in in 'Mine Shop' . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . like on the 'Haul-Trucks' - - - - when we would install the rear beds ; or change beds , for installing the "bed pins" . . . . . . . . "by the can" (we'd get it by the pint can . . . . . wish I had bought "stock" in that back in 1981) .



later , jim
 

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1969 Nova . . 2dr . . Chino Valley,Az USA
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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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I remember what a major PIA it was to remove the front spring perches when I installed my subframe connectors several years ago. Four of the six bolts just spun around with the nuts still attached to them. Luckily for me, my front spring perch bolts still used the original "J nuts" (with a hex nut instead of a smooth cone) and I was able to jam some flat blade screw drivers thru the access holes/slots (that were in the frame) against the nuts to keep them from turning while I removed the bolts (plus a ton of PB blaster).

After seeing how the metal tabs that held the two halves of the J-nuts together had rusted, I knew that I did not want to use the replacement J-nuts with the smooth cone shaped head. My fear was if the replacement J-nut ears would break during a future R&R of the front spring perches... there would be nothing to grab on to to keep the nut portion from turning.
I like the idea of welding bolts in place as newstand did, but I went a different route and used new grade 8 bolts, nuts, and washers to reinstall the front spring perches. I also coated the bolts with anti-seize for same added insurance.

Since I was going the be using nuts and bolts to reinstall the front spring perches, I needed something to hold the nuts in place, and keep them from turning while I inserted and tightened the spring perch bolts. So I made some "custom" wrenches that could be inserted thru the holes/slots in the frame to hold the nuts (with washers) in place while the bolts were installed. I had to use a different wrench for each one of the nut locations.

I used masking take to hold the nuts and washers to the wrenches.

A couple years after I installed the subframe connectors, I installed some Caltracs... and removing an reinstalling the front spring perches was a breeze since I was able to use the custom wrenches I had previously made.
I know this might be a little overkill, but I feel better knowing that I am using grade 8 hardware to hold the front spring perches in place.
 
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