Chevy Nova Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,046 Posts
Spot putty is more like a really thick primer in a tube. It's more used for filling in sand scratches after all the filler is used and a small imperfection is found in the final primer. When I worked in a body shops years ago we really used it if ever. It was more like a quick fix at the last second before paint in the old lacquer primer/paint. Spot putty is normally really soft and crumbly when it's very thick and dry.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,554 Posts
I'd 3M spot putty the car over then sand down and prime if I were doing a lacquer job "back in the day" Lotsa work.

Fills in all the scratches and imperfections in the bodywork that were missed-not the huge ones.


Then came the prime coat, the scuff, tack rag, sealer and paint coats.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
putty

i am currently a body man at two custom shops. i use bondo for the big stuff. especially if i need to build up. putty is a lot thinner and is not for filling. only for perfecting things such as pinholes before prime or small dings or scratches where bondo would be overkill. another thing to kno is that metal glaze (putty) is the same price as rage extreme(my bondo of choice) but the glaze is a quart and bodo is a gallon so its a little more expensive.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
5,130 Posts
Let's clear up what is meant by spot putty.
If you are talking about the 1K product that is in a tube and you apply it without hardener, DON'T use it. Old, way outdated product.

The new version is very similar to a body filler and has a hardener like body filler
which makes it a 2K product, MUCH better.
I always call these products finishing filler to reduce the confusion.
They are a more finely ground and creamier version of filler.
As sosick posted, they are for filling sand scratches and pinholes left in the regular filler. It is not designed for filling dents, it should only have a skim coat to fill scratches. I finish regular filler out with 80 grit and use finishing filler to
fill the 80 scratches and sand down to 240 or finer.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
558 Posts
I agree with TechNova. The red stuff that comes in a tube with no hardner is no good. It will shrink back and after you paint the car you will be able to see the scratches, pinholes, etc.

Polyester putty is the way to go for filling minor imperfections like pinholes in bodyfiller and sanding scratches. I would not use it for filling chips, I would sand chips out. This putty is designed to be used a very thin coat over bodyfiller or metal but only if the imperfection is very shallow. Do not use this product as a bodyfiller, use "bondo".

Body filler, "bondo" is designed for imperfections that are larger in size and slightly deeper but again is not to cover a dent and should not be more than about 1/8 of an inch or you will have big problems later on or when she leans up against your ride. Spend the extra time and straiten the sheetmetal, don't be lazy anyone can do it if they put in the effort. Buy a book, go to school for it, or get a job as a bodyman's helper.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,849 Posts
Yup, the putty is just for pin holes, its really thin and does a good job of getting in the tight holes. I used evercoat metal glaze on my car. Good stuff, but watch it, its fast. JR
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
5,130 Posts
i am currently a body man at two custom shops. i use bondo for the big stuff. especially if i need to build up. putty is a lot thinner and is not for filling. only for perfecting things such as pinholes before prime or small dings or scratches where bondo would be overkill. another thing to kno is that metal glaze (putty) is the same price as rage extreme(my bondo of choice) but the glaze is a quart and bodo is a gallon so its a little more expensive.
A couple people have posted about Metal Glaze, I used it a few years ago and it was VERY hard to sand, has it changed??

I use Dynatron Putty Cote and UPOL Dolphin glaze.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,849 Posts
A couple people have posted about Metal Glaze, I used it a few years ago and it was VERY hard to sand, has it changed??

I use Dynatron Putty Cote and UPOL Dolphin glaze.
I used it late last year and it wasnt as easy to sand as the rage gold filler but I laid it on so thin that the blocking was not too bad. I did like how thin it was, easy to work in. But yeah, its pretty darn hard, I wouldnt wanna sand much of it. Kinda pricey too. JR

Oh, and I wouldnt recommend it for scratches, just way to thin, hard to level out so you end up using more than you should, then yeah, some sanding work. But for pin holes it was ok.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
I skim all my work with metal glaze. Use it pretty much everyday. I think it works great but maybe I'm just used to it. I usually cut it with 180 and finish it off with 220-320.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,488 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
how many of you lay a skim coat on the whole car and sand it off and the only thing left is where there was some sort of low spot that way every low spot is fixed
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
859 Posts
You Rage users might try Marson's Platinum Plus by 3M. It sand like butter
and is cheaper than rage. I was a rage gold & extreme user until a guy on
another site turned me on to this stuff. A very high quality filler for sure:yes:

Chuck
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,045 Posts
So I thought about taking the side and rocker trim off my 66...What's the best way to fill the holes ?????
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
So I thought about taking the side and rocker trim off my 66...What's the best way to fill the holes ?????
welding them up is the only "right" way to do fill holes. Weld em up, grind it down and skim it with some metal glaze.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,045 Posts
welding them up is the only "right" way to do fill holes. Weld em up, grind it down and skim it with some metal glaze.
My neighbor has 17 year under his belt at welding...He owe's me too...HOw lucky is that? Thanks
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top