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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just installed a Wilwood 15/16" bore master cylinder and adjustable proportional valve on my 1972 Nova. It has 4 wheel discs on it without a vacuum booster. The rod is connected in the top hole of the brake pedal. I bled the master cylinder before hooking the brake lines. So far, I believe that I have done everything correctly. I have bled the brakes three times but the pedal keeps going down. I test drove it but it will not come close to stopping properly. What could I have done wrong? I'm stumped!
 

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how did you bleed them
when I changed my 63 to front disc and added a tandem master (no booster) , I bled so many times and just could not get the pedal pressure to increase

bought what I have always wanted in a bleeder that pressurizes at the master....not trying to suck at the wheel

did all wheels again was getting bubbles for quite a while

brakes have been great since
 

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Air or possible bad MC or the wrong size bore? ..you have the caliper bleeders on the top i would call Wilwood support they should be able to help

I have a Phoenix Reveres inject bleeder tool not cheap but pushes fluid from wheel to master works great, they make a cheaper version
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Bleed them good and let them sit for a few days. While in the shop every once in a while pump them up. It would be great if you could actually move the car around a little bit. Eventually if there is air it will gravitate towards the calipers allowing you to bleed it out. May take a few times but eventually it will come out.
 

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Who makes the brake calipers? If wilwood are you bleeding the top caliper bleeder screw?
Sometimes chasing air in the system I will clamp the rear rubber brake hose to see if the soft pedal is coming from the front.
keep us posted. I do recall wilwood having a recall on one of the MC’s I had to send back to be addressed- don’t know if mine actually had a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
how did you bleed them
when I changed my 63 to front disc and added a tandem master (no booster) , I bled so many times and just could not get the pedal pressure to increase

bought what I have always wanted in a bleeder that pressurizes at the master....not trying to suck at the wheel

did all wheels again was getting bubbles for quite a while

brakes have been great since
Thank you for this info!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks to all who have replied. I called Wilwood today, for the 3rd time. A little history first. I called them the first time and was told to get their 1-1/8" master cylinder. I tried installing it but had a few issues getting the correct rod length. Called them again, 2nd time, and was told I have the incorrect master cylinder and I need a 7/8" or 15/16" bore. So, I bought a 15/16 and installed it. That leads us to now, where I can't get a good pedal. I called Wilwood today and was told, once again, that I have the wrong master cylinder and I need a 1-1/8". I was quite aggravated, as you can imagine. The company I purchased from is trying to help me with my situation, thank goodness. My question to everyone is, what's the right master cylinder and what would you do from here?
 

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2 things, as a young man, many moons ago, i had the front calipers reversed, the bleeders were on the down side, duh! and, i always bench bleed the master cylinder, ok, then i have gravity bled , always worked for me. takes a few days.
 

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I have same set up on my 63, I bleed with air , to each brake cylinder, had off and on many times, never no issues, I think I go over your system again, and tighten, and re tighten again, good luck, bet its simply and out of frustration your over looking it, good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Who makes the brake calipers? If wilwood are you bleeding the top caliper bleeder screw?
Sometimes chasing air in the system I will clamp the rear rubber brake hose to see if the soft pedal is coming from the front.
keep us posted. I do recall wilwood having a recall on one of the MC’s I had to send back to be addressed- don’t know if mine actually had a problem.
They are a factory type of caliper. All the bleeders are "up". Good idea on clamping the lines to evaluate. I will try that. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
2 things, as a young man, many moons ago, i had the front calipers reversed, the bleeders were on the down side, duh! and, i always bench bleed the master cylinder, ok, then i have gravity bled , always worked for me. takes a few days.
Bleeders are in the "up" position. They are factory calipers. I will try to bleed again and see what happens. I think I have the correct master cylinder?! Thanks for replying!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have same set up on my 63, I bleed with air , to each brake cylinder, had off and on many times, never no issues, I think I go over your system again, and tighten, and re tighten again, good luck, bet its simply and out of frustration your over looking it, good luck
Thanks! Will try bleeding again. If still spongy, I will purchase one of the force fed bleeding systems everyone is talking about.
 

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I find it quite concerning wilwood gives you different answers
did you tell them you are running manual brakes
I read somewhere to keep master cyl bore below 1" if running manual.....probably others know more here
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I find it quite concerning wilwood gives you different answers
did you tell them you are running manual brakes
I read somewhere to keep master cyl bore below 1" if running manual.....probably others know more here
Yes, Wilwood knows they are manual brakes. A big part of my concern is the different recommendations. Makes me wonder about their sales staff competence on the product. The last conversation with them was this 15/16" MC is creating a spongy pedal. Seems like many others run this size without an issue. I'm waiting to hear from one of their sales reps now.
 
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