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Discussion Starter #1
I just finished re-assembling my '63 SS, including re-wiring it. 350, ministarter, 4 speed, added a clutch switch, new ignition switch, I added a good used shunt for the amp gage, all new wiring and fuse box, new 10si alternator, battery in the trunk, run up to the starter, ground cable grounded to body and cable going from engine to body. I had installed a Crane XRi electronic point conversion which requires a ballast resistor. Headlights are on a relay. When I start it, the motor cranks fine, then fires, but when I let off the key it dies. I have 12 volts on the ignition ckt to one side of the ballast, and the run ckt on the other which also connects to the B+ of the coil, and goes to the starter, of course. I checked the coil, which is not new, and it has 1.8 ohms on the primary and 11K ohm on the secondary so it checks ok. I thought maybe it was the XRi module, so I put the points back in and it does the same thing, Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Dean
 

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I agree with L78steve you may have the start and run wires backwards. The start wire connected on the run position of the starter or coil will give you power/spark until you turn the key off crank. That is why it will sound like it is going when you crank motor then die once you turn off crank. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I just checked that I had power at the ballast resistor in run. Good idea to check it right at the coil. I will double check, but I think I do have power at + terminal of the coil. Thanks!
 

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Check the voltage at the coil +. You may have a resistor wire built in on your wire harness and then you wont need the ballast resistor. If you have both resistors in the circuit the run voltage will be too low.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I think I figured it out. I wired the start ckt from the ignition switch to one side of the ballast resistor, and then down to the starter solenoid switch. This is bad since there is no diode to keep current from flowing through the ballast resistor and down to the starter solenoid when in run. I didn't mention that I have a powermaster ministarter without an R circuit. My symptom is the opposite of the symptom they describe, but I now know I need a diode on that ckt. Here's a note in the instruction sheet for the starter. Hopefully this helps someone else.

WHAT DO I DO WITH THE WIRE THAT CONNECTED TO THE ‘R’ TERMINAL ON THE ORIGINAL STARTER? In early original wiring harnesses the ‘R’ circuit was a ballast resistor bypass. This terminal is ‘no connection’ when the starter is at rest and is +12VDC while cranking. This circuit provided +12VDC to the ignition coil during cranking for easier engine starting. Cars that do not have a ballast resistor (i.e. HEI, MSD or other aftermarket ignition systems) should not need this connection. In most cases this wire can be eliminated. If the engine has no ignition during cranking, then the wiring of the coil is going to require an ‘R’ terminal signal. To accomplish this, order PN 600 R-Terminal kit or, connect a 10A/250V diode in line with the MOTOR SIDE of the solenoid. The cathode or banded end of the diode goes toward the ign coil. This allows current to go from the starter to the coil and not from the coil to the starter.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yep, that was it. I pulled a diode from an old tv ckt board and added it to the circuit and it started right up and ran. I ran it about 5 minutes with revs above 2000, then checked for leaks.Then started it and ran it for another 10 minutes keeping the revs above 2000 and varying between 1900 and 2500 or so. So far so good. I have a few oil leaks. The valve cover gaskets have an extra hole on one side and it seems these need to be on the side toward the intake. When the holes are on the opposite side, the gap you see is on the outside of head causing a leak.
IMG_2393[1].JPG
 
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