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I like the H-beam.

I think they are stronger in the main cap area.

IMO
AL
 

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I dont think either of them need to be clearanced for stroke, if its not a stroked crank. I went the less expensive route at the time (in the 90s), I beams, 4340, 6" rods. Dont think they are gonna break. JR
 

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It seems like the most expensive, lightest, highest h.p. rated rods are I-beams. When it comes to cost/h.p. ratings H-beams are slightly more economical. Weights depend on whose rod and what it's made from; I have some H- beams that are in the mid 500g range, but the light ones (500g or less) are usually I-beams.
 

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It seems like the most expensive, lightest, highest h.p. rated rods are I-beams.
Not always.:no: Look at Dyers Top Rods and the old tried and true Carillo rods. Both are H-beam's.

On the flip side, 99% of the billet rods are all I-beam designs. Carillo, Lunati, Crower, Oliver, Howards, etc. all make KILLER I-beams.

As to which design is stronger?? I've seen the arguments made on both sides by some pretty sharp engine builders:yes: and the jury is still out.:D That fact of the matter is unless you are making the kind of power to put you in the top 1%, you'll never need to worry about either.:no: Because at that point you'll be needing to run aluminum rods to try and lengthen the life of the crank.:devil:

As for stroker clearance, that has more to do with the big end design. 99% of the good aftermarket rods are already a "Cap screw" design that is already clearanced for most applications.:yes:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
rods

Not always.:no: Look at Dyers Top Rods and the old tried and true Carillo rods. Both are H-beam's.

On the flip side, 99% of the billet rods are all I-beam designs. Carillo, Lunati, Crower, Oliver, Howards, etc. all make KILLER I-beams.

As to which design is stronger?? I've seen the arguments made on both sides by some pretty sharp engine builders:yes: and the jury is still out.:D That fact of the matter is unless you are making the kind of power to put you in the top 1%, you'll never need to worry about either.:no: Because at that point you'll be needing to run aluminum rods to try and lengthen the life of the crank.:devil:

As for stroker clearance, that has more to do with the big end design. 99% of the good aftermarket rods are already a "Cap screw" design that is already clearanced for most applications.:yes:
The rods I am looking at are pro series I beam and are actually heavier than scat h beams and are supposed to handle 850+ hp 4340 material with 874 arp cap screws 670 grams liteweight version weigh in at 595 g.
 

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reading this again, Understood what you mean but you meant to say rod cap area Al :Drolleyes:
yea, that thingy that holds the spacer thing-a-ma-jig!:devil:
 

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It seems like the most expensive, lightest, highest h.p. rated rods are I-beams. When it comes to cost/h.p. ratings H-beams are slightly more economical. Weights depend on whose rod and what it's made from; I have some H- beams that are in the mid 500g range, but the light ones (500g or less) are usually I-beams.
Good point!

I suppose we need to have a budget limit first with the question!:devil:

AL
 

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Good point!

I suppose we need to have a budget limit first with the question!:devil:

AL
Absolutely!!
There's some good budget rods of both designs out there!!:yes:

Like these...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
rods

Absolutely!!
There's some good budget rods of both designs out there!!:yes:

Like these...
those are the type rods i am looking at, now is there anybody out there that can post some pictures of the block where it needs to be clearanced during/after the build up?? and of course you get it to fit then get it balanced after grinding and clearancing the rods
 
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