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Discussion Starter #1
Guys,

I'm looking for a simplified drawing or sketch of the engine wiring for the 69.
I just put in a new 383, mini-starter, Davis unified distributor and coil, and a 1-wire alternator. I think I'm just over-thinking things, but I'm sure this has already been done by someone, so if there's a sketch, I would really appreciate it. I am thinking about putting a Waytek 12V junction block in place and just running the Battery wire to it and using it to disperse power to starter, alternator, horn relay, etc..then put another under the dash for the radio, lights, etc..
Is it a good idea to also put a high amp fuse in-line with the ground wires in case of a crash? Like I said, could be over thinking this a tad....

I also put in Vintage Air, but just worried about the engine power wiring for now.

Any sketch or help is appreciated..Barry
 

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Guys,

I'm looking for a simplified drawing or sketch of the engine wiring for the 69.
I just put in a new 383, mini-starter, Davis unified distributor and coil, and a 1-wire alternator. I think I'm just over-thinking things, but I'm sure this has already been done by someone, so if there's a sketch, I would really appreciate it. I am thinking about putting a Waytek 12V junction block in place and just running the Battery wire to it and using it to disperse power to starter, alternator, horn relay, etc..then put another under the dash for the radio, lights, etc..
Is it a good idea to also put a high amp fuse in-line with the ground wires in case of a crash? Like I said, could be over thinking this a tad....
Are you completely rewiring the car?
Don't run your battery wire to the junction block. The battery serves only to start the car, so the battery cable should run directly to the starter. The stock wire from the battery to the junction is sufficient, and it should have a fusible link in series.
The output of the alternator should run directly to your junction block using a wire sized for the amperage. In the stock configuration the horn relay serves as the junction block, so a wire from the new junction block to the horn relay will operate the existing stock wiring system.
 

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Junction blocks are good.

Use fusible links in the charge wire and wire from battery to distribution block, not fuses in the grounds. Fuses pop quickly, whereas a fusible link can handle short spikes/surges that are otherwise beyond normal operating conditions - such as when starting the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Are you completely rewiring the car?
Don't run your battery wire to the junction block. The battery serves only to start the car, so the battery cable should run directly to the starter. The stock wire from the battery to the junction is sufficient, and it should have a fusible link in series.
The output of the alternator should run directly to your junction block using a wire sized for the amperage. In the stock configuration the horn relay serves as the junction block, so a wire from the new junction block to the horn relay will operate the existing stock wiring system.
Would I still need a 10ga wire from the mini starter to the ignition at that point or does the 12 volt wire to the horn relay take care of that?
I still have the stock wiring in place to the horn relay, it has a 12 volt feed from the battery, and a fusible link wire to the firewall connector.
I'm thinking that I just remove the battery feed and replace it with the feed from the new junction block.. Is this correct?
Thanks.
 

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Would I still need a 10ga wire from the mini starter to the ignition at that point or does the 12 volt wire to the horn relay take care of that?
I still have the stock wiring in place to the horn relay, it has a 12 volt feed from the battery, and a fusible link wire to the firewall connector.
I'm thinking that I just remove the battery feed and replace it with the feed from the new junction block.. Is this correct?
Thanks.
I would just leave the stock feed to the battery. What is the 10ga wire from the mini starter to the ignition for?
 

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I have to dig, but I have a wiring diagram stashed somewhere for our cars that I used when I re-did my '69 a few years ago.

An aside: the 1-wire alternators are okay, but 3-wire setups are better for drivers. The internal exciter setup on most 1-wire setups make them more prone to undercharging and under performing, comparatively.
 

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Guys, when looking inside a one-wire alternator what identifies it as one-wire?
When looking inside mine I don't readily see the difference.
Thx
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have to dig, but I have a wiring diagram stashed somewhere for our cars that I used when I re-did my '69 a few years ago.

An aside: the 1-wire alternators are okay, but 3-wire setups are better for drivers. The internal exciter setup on most 1-wire setups make them more prone to undercharging and under performing, comparatively.
Understood on the 3-wire, I went back and forth before deciding, mine has the 3-wire capability in case I decide to change.
I'd like to see that diagram as well for reference.
Mr. Goble has been a huge help!
 
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