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Discussion Starter #1
Performer RPM that a friend gave me. I was going to glass bead it and figured before I do, clean it up a bit and set it up on the heads to scope things out. As with everything in my build, I found a few surprises!

Here's the manifold on the motor



Front overhangs a bit, is this normal?



Here's where I'm having doubts.....With all bolt holes lined up, rear leaves considerable exposed block area, is this normal? I was thinking the rubber end gasket should probably do the trick. Additionally, notice that rear galley type plug under the head. The head overhangs it. cool?



Speaking of bolt holes, most of them are elongated...looks like someone went a bit crazy on them. In particular, the left rear bolt is so small, I can't even fit my new arp bolt in there.





Is this manifold ok or shoud I pass and go grab a new one at my local sped shop? thanks!
 

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I don't see anything wrong. Maybe chase the bolt holes with a 3/8 drill bit.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Al. It's only that one bolt hole in the rear that is smaller than the rest. Does that mean the guy who used this before used a different bolt at that spot????
I figured the standard sealant application on the bolts would take care of those bolts in the water jackets. And not sure about whether or not I will use the rubber end gaskets or sealant only, but didn't see that as a big deal. I got a good leasson at manifold installation with my old motor that had angle milled heads but I didn't know they were milled. Had that thing on and off a million times, finally had the intake cut....but I digress.

What struck me odd is that why would ARP make a small block manifold bolt kit and how can it not be compatable with a stock Edelbrock intake (without grinding or altering the bolt holes)? In other words, both very popular and common items....I would think it should be a bolt up and go, no mods necessary kind of thing. Also, the ARP intake bolt kit came with all the same parts except 4 washers are smaller. I am figuring they give you some smaller ones in case you run tight at certain areas. For this RPM intake, there's plenty of room around the bolt holes for the larger washers.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Sorry for the bump and hope everyone had a good weekend.

With all due respect to Al's opinion, which is good enough for me, I thought I would ask one more time if anyone else has some input on using this manifold and any potential issues it may cause. Just checking one more time before I go spend time cleaning it up. thanks!
 

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I've got a numbered drill set so I could enlarge the holes just a bit in order to get the best possible port alignment:D but otherwise Big Al's right on.:yes: Without a little work it's RARE to find an intake that will just FIT.:rolleyes: Some are better than others and some just plain SUCK!!:yes:

Be sure and get some small O.D. washers for the intake bolts.:yes: Then you'll get better clamping and less galling on the intake...

At least your intake face angles look good.:yes: That seems to be a problem with some of the Chinese stuff....
 

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I think it will be fine, just run a mill file down the sealing surfaces to check for warpage. Then hit it with testors!
 

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before you hit it with the bead blaster try aluminum wheel cleaner. Use it liberally let it soak a bit, use a soft bristle brush ahd scrub the really stained areas and then rinse. It keeps that fresh out of the box look.
 

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friend of mine said he had to work on the holes
of his because he used late model heads and the
bolts went in at a different angle. i
 

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i dont see a prob with runnin the intake but i would NOT run the ruber end gaskets. leak every time. just use a thick bead of RTV and you will be golden.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Cool. Any particular type of drill bit I should use to enlarge that one rear hole? I have a standard all purpose metal drill bit set.

I have had good success with the rubber end seals in the past. Also HAD to use RTV on my milled head / cut intake setup. For this build, I'm still on the fence.
 

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you're drilling aluminum so any style/make of bits will work. HSS (high speed steel) is the most common and will do fine. Unless you're drilling into hardened steel there's no need for anything exotic.:no: I try not to use my cobalt or tungsten bits unless I have to. They're just too dang expensive and harder to sharpen.:yes::rolleyes:
 
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