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Discussion Starter #1
Should I remove the ac system on my car? I have always had A/C on my cars but never use them. Today I turned on the air conditioning on the nova and I just don't like how accelarated the engine gets with it on.

I also noticed how much space the AC system takes up with all the hoeses and wires under the hood and damn do they get hot compared to other parts of the engine!
 

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I'd keep it & adjust the idle on the solinoid on the carb with the A/C on. I removed my A/C once when I was 16 and I regretted it. I put A/C on everything I get that dosent have it now.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I tried adjusting the solenied too and I still will never use it, It also doesnt blow cold air after about ten minutes.
 

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KEEP IT!!! haha it sounds like your system just needs a charge have you tried that yet? And not to mention A/C systems in 4th gens are pretty rare mine had A/C at one time and if they reproduced the parts I'd by a system right away. Somehow mine got removed over 32 years.
 

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Keep it, since yours is a 78 it is real easy to convert to the 134A refrigerant. If it blows cold but stops after 10 minutes it sounds like the system is ok but maybe the belt is slipping or you are not getting enough air flow over the condenser.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I compared the pro's and con's.....and having the AC system will definetly make it more troublesome for when I start modify the engine.

:( I'm hoping this thread goes into a ¨how do I rip out the Ac system¨
 

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You do realize that the heat and defrost will not work if you remove the AC and the standard heat set up will not fit due to the difference in the firewall cut outs. You can purchase an AC delete cover that will allow the heat/defrost to remain functional or I can show you how to build your own from part of the existing AC box.
 

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I never understood why people want to instantly rip something out that doesn't work. Do you rip out the heat when heater core blows? Rip out the power steering when a hose pops? Tear out the power brakes when the booster craps out? No you fix them because they're niceties. Fix it, it's part of the car and keeps it's value up. How many times I've heard "I'll never sell it" only to find they want to sell it later. The entire AC system doesn't weigh THAT much that you're going to be a quarter mile King without it. Even when it's there not on it isn't using any power even with the belt on, maybe a 1/4 HP if that. OMG rip out it costing me major horsepower.

I kept my AC in my '77 and managed to install a ZZ383, the box causes some grief to work around but nothing more than working on a transverse engine mounted in a newer car. Come work on my '95 Monte Z34 and I'll show you what grief is, the box on the '77 is nothing, even a laugh after working on that POS many times.

The folks that have been there done that enough aren't going to lead you down the "how to rip out" road. We've done it and looked back and kicked ourselves for it. Unless you're building a drag only car without pipe dreams keep the system and make it functional.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It's a PAIN. It was so tough to put in the Spark plug #8 because of the damn AC box. It leaks Coolant from the AC box. The AC was recharged, it sucks. I know because of IT, the underhood temps are high. It looks ugly...AND I assume it will be a pain for the Headers Installation.
 

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Removing a/c?

If you decide to rip it out, I'll be glad to take some of those "unwanted parts" to repair the a/c in my 76. However, I do hope you'll reconsider your position on the a/c elimination. If not, send me a pm. Thanks, David
 

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The A/C quits after a while because it's just low on freon. you can buy a convertion valve to R134-a for under 5 bucks and the freon is cheap. What we do at the shop is put some dye in the system and give it a full charge, then check in a week or 2 to see where the leak is and go from there. The most likely cause of the leak is either the front seal in the compressor or the o-rings on the hose connections, all of which can be replaced without much trouble. Fixing it would save you a lot of time and headaches!
 

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It's a PAIN. It was so tough to put in the Spark plug #8 because of the damn AC box. It leaks Coolant from the AC box. The AC was recharged, it sucks. I know because of IT, the underhood temps are high. It looks ugly...AND I assume it will be a pain for the Headers Installation.
Slow down a bit and consider the frequency of A/C use versus the frequency of tune ups. A/C almost everyday from around April through November; tune ups on average no more than once a year and maybe not that often. Changing spark plugs with stock manifolds is really easy if you use the right tools; Headers do not make it much harder to change the plugs, but getting that back bolt tightened is going to be a pain. but it will only need done once.

Your 78 actually has the best A/C system used in the Nova, prior to 77 it was different. Yours and mine is an easy conversion to 134A and will work well when done properly.

You really do need to stop by, let me answer any questions about your car, show you some ways to make working on it easier and while you are here you can take a look at mine and see how the headers and AC fit and difficulty level of changing the spark plugs.

And your coolant leak may just be a hose, if it is the heater core that is removed from inside the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Slow down a bit and consider the frequency of A/C use versus the frequency of tune ups. A/C almost everyday from around April through November; tune ups on average no more than once a year and maybe not that often. Changing spark plugs with stock manifolds is really easy if you use the right tools; Headers do not make it much harder to change the plugs, but getting that back bolt tightened is going to be a pain. but it will only need done once.

Your 78 actually has the best A/C system used in the Nova, prior to 77 it was different. Yours and mine is an easy conversion to 134A and will work well when done properly.

You really do need to stop by, let me answer any questions about your car, show you some ways to make working on it easier and while you are here you can take a look at mine and see how the headers and AC fit and difficulty level of changing the spark plugs.

And your coolant leak may just be a hose, if it is the heater core that is removed from inside the car.
Phillip, I have never used AC so I don't think I'm missing out on this luxury.

I do need to stop by.
 

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What's an A/C ?:devil::D
 

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You do realize that the heat and defrost will not work if you remove the AC and the standard heat set up will not fit due to the difference in the firewall cut outs. You can purchase an AC delete cover that will allow the heat/defrost to remain functional or I can show you how to build your own from part of the existing AC box.
This is the nightmare 77Concours and I are having with his ’77. The fan will run on low and medium but nothing when set to high (relay problem?). We do get air through defrost and dash vents but noting on the floor vent. We need heat for the winter months and don’t have the money to get parts and put ac back into working order. Once we fix the high fan speed issue is there any way to “prop open” the floor vent?

We didn't know about the AC delete cover. Could this help solve our problems?
 

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High speed is controlled by a relay that is turned on/off with the fan switch. The power source is the large red wire on the firewall that is hot all the time.
The delete cover allows all the heat/defrost functions to continue to work with the A/C controls. The control needs a vacuum source to change the air flow to the desired vents. If you have a good vacuum source the switch may be bad. I'll go get some photos of the relay and vacuum switch and post them.
 

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Here is the fan relay and wiring. The power wire is in the upper right, the rectangular silver box is the relay and the gray plug above it is the speed resistor for the lower speeds.



This is the control assembly, the yellow box ports the incoming vacuum to the correct actuator to open/close doors to allow air movement through the desired chambers and exit from the proper outlets. The problem can be in the supply vacuum, vacuum switch, the hoses or the actuator for that particular function that is not working.

 
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