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critical speed of driveshaft depends on length, diameter and RPM? Geeze, I just need a driveshaft. I have visited Mark Williams, Strange, Denny's, and Inland Empire. I had no idea a 500~600 dollar driveshaft was required. I knew some things about 1350 joints and forged pinion and trans yolks. The stock shaft is 2 3/4" diam. or there abouts and rated critical speed of 4,000 RPM. In high gear at the big end I'm @ 7300 RPM. Seems to me (T/C slipage excluded) the shaft RPM would be the same as engine RPM.
At this RPM they have me into a 3 1/2" 4130 tube with 4130 weld yolks and they can't build it without a trans yolk. (they need it to balance) So the trans yolk to match everything else is of course 179.85 extra.
This is a big hit and I did not see it coming.
 

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Drive shafts

I feel ya pain. :eek:$$$$$$$$$I just bought a Dennys with a billet yoke. I ran a 4 inch diameter aluminum shaft for a while, but after ditchin the 12 bolt and going to a aluminum 9 inch rear I felt the next weak link would be the aluminum shaft.
 

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I dont know what trans/pinion yoke your running, but I bought my driveshaft from Muscle Motorsports. They sell used Nascar stuff for cheap. I got a complete used 4" steel driveshaft, with 1350 U joints on both ends and trans slip yoke for 75.00 plus shipping. The shaft looked like new when I got it....saved me alot of cash.....heres the link for ya.
http://www.musclemotorsports.com/drivetrain-driveshaft-driveshafts-steel--used.html
 

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definitely check out a local shop. when i got mine in omaha (2 years ago?) i think i paid 210 or so. steel shaft. i wanna say 3 1/2"? got a yoke on ebay and sent it in for the new shaft. 1350 joints on both ends (still need a 1350 diff yoke, but my local auto parts retailer got me a 1310x1350)
 

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critical speed of driveshaft depends on length, diameter and RPM? Geeze, I just need a driveshaft. I have visited Mark Williams, Strange, Denny's, and Inland Empire. I had no idea a 500~600 dollar driveshaft was required. I knew some things about 1350 joints and forged pinion and trans yolks. The stock shaft is 2 3/4" diam. or there abouts and rated critical speed of 4,000 RPM. In high gear at the big end I'm @ 7300 RPM. Seems to me (T/C slipage excluded) the shaft RPM would be the same as engine RPM.
At this RPM they have me into a 3 1/2" 4130 tube with 4130 weld yolks and they can't build it without a trans yolk. (they need it to balance) So the trans yolk to match everything else is of course 179.85 extra.
This is a big hit and I did not see it coming.
Your location says NY...If you're on, or anywhere near Long Island check out Nassau Driveshaft..
 

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I just ordered my 3 1/2" driveshaft with front yoke and 1350 cryo joints on both ends and it cost me $345.00 to my door! It is good for 1000hp and is dom steel. I ordered it from PST ( precision shaft technoligies) I found there advertisement in the national dragster, called them up and talked with them, they were very cool to deal with so I ordered it!:yes:
 

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Stock 1969 6 cylinder Nova 2-3/4" shaft here--thousands of passes, 9 second nitrous runs, wheelstand contest winner, 60 fts. in the mid 1.3's. Finally switched to a 1350 because it was free with the Moser 12-bolt. My buddy had over 275 9 second runs on his stocker before he sold the car-no problems ever.
 

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stock shaft? OK, what's going on here?
Some guys live a charmed life, not mentioning any names here. Some guys, everything they touch turns to sh**. Decide which one you are and respond accordingly.

I'm happy with my nitrous ready from Denny's. Peace of mind.
 

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i just got mine done at the local shop . They said to use dom .091 instead of the .083 because the hp i am running (700) . When i got it back it was HEAVY !!! i WISH I HAD GONE WITH THE ALUMINUM ! or at least the .083 .....
Anyway it cost me 312.00 with new 1350 ends and joints . I supplied the trans yoke .
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yes indeed, body parts. Arm neck head,etc. I thought about this stock shaft stuff all day today. If stock shafting was acceptable, then all the specialty driveshaft shops would turn off the light switch one last time and close the door. I've also seen some rumors flying around about NHRA considering an SFI spec driveshaft in certain classes.
As mlda posted, live a charmed life? Heck, I'm not even charming.

On a happier note, I am so relieved to see so many of you find a way around the steep price of a safe shaft. It's a part of hot rodding some don't see. In my rod budget I initially forcasted $300 for the shaft, and I am thankful to see you guys in that arena. That $500~600 stuff was heavy.
Thanks, Al
 

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i just got mine done at the local shop . They said to use dom .091 instead of the .083 because the hp i am running (700) . When i got it back it was HEAVY !!! i WISH I HAD GONE WITH THE ALUMINUM ! or at least the .083 .....
Anyway it cost me 312.00 with new 1350 ends and joints . I supplied the trans yoke .
the good news is that the relatively small diameter of most driveshafts makes the weight difference negligable. i'm sure there's a thousand opinions on this as well but heavier is not necessarily worse. it's like a flywheel, advantages and disadvantes to lighter and heavier. i think my new shaft is almost double the weight of my old one and it cost me NOTHING in E/T, reaction time, 60ft, NO difference whatsoever.
 
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