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It may not be what you are looking for but a serpentine set up from an 4.3 S10 will bolt right on a SBC. The early years had the AC on the passenger side and later years had it on the drivers side.
 

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I'm considering converting to a serpentine belt system. My car is a '69, SBC with factory A/C and power steering. I also want to keep the costs low. One big change that I would like is to move the A/C compressor from the stock driver-side mount to the passenger side, just to help clean up the plumbing of the A/C hoses. If the alternator gets moved to the driver side, that's fine, but not required.

Two sets that I have found are from March Performance. The 22037-08 March Performance - Chevy Small Block - Long Water Pump Custom | March Performance

And the 22072-08 March Performance - Chevy Small Block - Long Water Pump Ultra | March Performance

Has anyone here used either of these systems on a 3rd Gen with factory A/C?

Any other systems that you would suggest, I would be happy to hear your thoughts.

Thanks,
I would strongly suggest taking a look at the Vintage Air serpentine system. It’s available in polished or black and really looks nice.
 

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I'm considering converting to a serpentine belt system. My car is a '69, SBC with factory A/C and power steering. I also want to keep the costs low. One big change that I would like is to move the A/C compressor from the stock driver-side mount to the passenger side, just to help clean up the plumbing of the A/C hoses. If the alternator gets moved to the driver side, that's fine, but not required.

Two sets that I have found are from March Performance. The 22037-08 March Performance - Chevy Small Block - Long Water Pump Custom | March Performance

And the 22072-08 March Performance - Chevy Small Block - Long Water Pump Ultra | March Performance

Has anyone here used either of these systems on a 3rd Gen with factory A/C?

Any other systems that you would suggest, I would be happy to hear your thoughts.

Thanks,
I went the Holley mid mount, I like how compact it is. b91b9793.jpg
 

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Ironically, I'm in the process of installing a CVF 8-rib belt system on my 67 BB Camaro! questioning my decision now... I'm using a Stewart water pump - hopefully no shaft failures!
 

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If want shiny and expensive go aftermarket, for no frills look into the S10 - Blazer - Jimmy- Sonoma with the 4.3. They have had many different arrangements over the years and is the most compact for a factory GM SBC serpentine system, and parts should always be easier to find if needed to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
It may not be what you are looking for but a serpentine set up from an 4.3 S10 will bolt right on a SBC. The early years had the AC on the passenger side and later years had it on the drivers side.
Thanks NCDEERE. I've considered those, it's helpful to know what years to be looking for.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I would strongly suggest taking a look at the Vintage Air serpentine system. It’s available in polished or black and really looks nice.
Thanks, popsdeuce. A friend of mine has one of those on his 3rd Gen. You're right, it's a very nice setup. But more money than I want to spend right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Ironically, I'm in the process of installing a CVF 8-rib belt system on my 67 BB Camaro! questioning my decision now... I'm using a Stewart water pump - hopefully no shaft failures!
Let us know how you like it. Stewart water pumps are good stuff, I doubt that it would fail like the one in the earlier post.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
If want shiny and expensive go aftermarket, for no frills look into the S10 - Blazer - Jimmy- Sonoma with the 4.3. They have had many different arrangements over the years and is the most compact for a factory GM SBC serpentine system, and parts should always be easier to find if needed to replace.
Thanks, gopher. The GM serpentine set up is a popular recommendation here. Certainly worth considering.
 

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For my Nova, I am considering All American Billet and VA...

For the C10 that I am building, I bought a Craigslist set-up off a '89-91 Suburban for $75. The AC is on the Passenger side and you can use different AC units with adapters. It came complete but I powdercoated it for about $50, purchased new idlers, belt, and pulley for $70, and a new aluminum ps pulley for $25. I hope to have a factory designed, easy to get parts for, easily serviceable set-up for about $200 total when I'm done not including the Water Pump. Don't know if I'm going to reuse the stock ac compressor or not yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
For my Nova, I am considering All American Billet and VA...

For the C10 that I am building, I bought a Craigslist set-up off a '89-91 Suburban for $75. The AC is on the Passenger side and you can use different AC units with adapters. It came complete but I powdercoated it for about $50, purchased new idlers, belt, and pulley for $70, and a new aluminum ps pulley for $25. I hope to have a factory designed, easy to get parts for, easily serviceable set-up for about $200 total when I'm done not including the Water Pump. Don't know if I'm going to reuse the stock ac compressor or not yet.
The GM set up is more popular than I realized. I've seen them on a few vehicles, but not on many Novas. One thing I would like to have is the option to choose my own alternator, A/C compressor and water pump. Using the GM kit, or the March 22072-08, would allow that flexibility. A GM kit would probably be the most cost effective, even if I have to buy a conversion bracket to use a Sanden compressor (my preference) and new alternator. I was planning to replace my Stewart cast iron water pump with one of their aluminum high-flow versions, so I need to decide which way to go, as the GM kit requires a reverse rotation pump, the March kit is clockwise rotation.

Thanks for your input, Ben, I appreciate it.
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Not having a clue what is the benefit of a sanden compressor?
They (R-4 compressors) have a bad reputation for failure, for being less efficient, and noisier. The Sanden-style compressors work very well and last a long time. I converted the original Harrison to a Sanden on my car several years ago, it's great. It has never given me a problem.
But I'm no expert, I'm sure that others here who know more about A/C than I do can be more informative. Hopefully others will shed more light on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Well, my friends, I thought I might try to go with the "OEM" set up from GM, but I'm getting a little discouraged. I went to three big junk yards and didn't find a single 88-91 S10 or S15 truck or SUV. Fortunately, I'm not in a big hurry to get it done. I've wanted to do this for a while, and just got motivated again lately. So, I'll keep my eyes open for one of the GM sets. Or, maybe I'll just break down and spend a few hundred more on an aftermarket kit. After all, the March, CVF, Billet, etc., look a lot nicer and work very well.

If anyone has any other ideas or suggestions, I'd be interested to hear what you have to say.

Thanks again for everyone's help and input.
 

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Well, my friends, I thought I might try to go with the "OEM" set up from GM, but I'm getting a little discouraged. I went to three big junk yards and didn't find a single 88-91 S10 or S15 truck or SUV. Fortunately, I'm not in a big hurry to get it done. I've wanted to do this for a while, and just got motivated again lately. So, I'll keep my eyes open for one of the GM sets. Or, maybe I'll just break down and spend a few hundred more on an aftermarket kit. After all, the March, CVF, Billet, etc., look a lot nicer and work very well.

If anyone has any other ideas or suggestions, I'd be interested to hear what you have to say.

Thanks again for everyone's help and input.
Try using this web site.
Put the year, make, model and do the search for an ENGINE. This way there is a good chance they have the truck there and maybe the engine is still in it so no wasted gas and time. Most of the wrecking yards listed also have a phone number listed so you can call about the parts you need. Also if they do have what you want, I would recommend asking them if you can remove the parts yourself, instead of them, because sometimes it looks like the workers are under pressure to remove the parts quick and you can save all the nuts, bolts and anything else that could be useful.

Also those beautiful aftermarket sets sometimes use a lot of stainless steel. So if you do decide to use an aftermarket set remember to use ANTISEIZE on all the studs, acorn nuts and such because to remove those parts after they been on there a while is sometimes impossible without galling threads. Just a little bit, don't go nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Try using this web site.
Put the year, make, model and do the search for an ENGINE. This way there is a good chance they have the truck there and maybe the engine is still in it so no wasted gas and time. Most of the wrecking yards listed also have a phone number listed so you can call about the parts you need. Also if they do have what you want, I would recommend asking them if you can remove the parts yourself, instead of them, because sometimes it looks like the workers are under pressure to remove the parts quick and you can save all the nuts, bolts and anything else that could be useful.

Also those beautiful aftermarket sets sometimes use a lot of stainless steel. So if you do decide to use an aftermarket set remember to use ANTISEIZE on all the studs, acorn nuts and such because to remove those parts after they been on there a while is sometimes impossible without galling threads. Just a little bit, don't go nuts.
Thanks for the link to the car-part website, Ed. I'll give them a look. Also, thanks for the tip on the anti-seize. I have a love/hate relationship with that stuff. I use it on lots of assemblies, especially where dissimilar metals come together. I love how well it works, I just hate how messy it is.
 

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Thanks for the link to the car-part website, Ed. I'll give them a look. Also, thanks for the tip on the anti-seize. I have a love/hate relationship with that stuff. I use it on lots of assemblies, especially where dissimilar metals come together. I love how well it works, I just hate how messy it is.
HAHAHA Yeah! It can get really messy. It don't have to be Antisieze but don't use stainless threads dry. You will regret it. Don't use the brush in the bottle. Just use the tip of a pocket screwdriver. Not much is required, just not dry.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
HAHAHA Yeah! It can get really messy. It don't have to be Antisieze but don't use stainless threads dry. You will regret it. Don't use the brush in the bottle. Just use the tip of a pocket screwdriver. Not much is required, just not dry.
You're right, I only use the brush to stir it up. I usually use a Q-tip (with half of the cotton pulled off) to apply a little dab on the threads. It works well inside a nut or on a bolt. I can toss the Q-tip in the trash when I'm done.
 
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