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Discussion Starter #1
Fears have been realized with the LS conversion and keeping the desired truck intake results in clearance issues with stock hood. My preference for appearance is a ram design vice cowl. I'll probably have to find a custom fabrication shop to get what I really want but thought I'd ask the more educated on this forum for ideas. I have discovered Bobsnova.com, OERparts.com, Harwood, and Auto Metal Direct for hood resources. Regarding Auto Metal Direct, I see they sell a scoop which looks like it might possibly be applied to create the ram appearance as an option by cutting my hood and adding this: Hood Scoops | AMD 301-SCOOP-1

All ideas welcomed, thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
what year model car we talkin about...
It's a '70 model. Here's a view of the challenge. I took a straight edge across from the top edge of each fender where the hood meets flush and I need about 2 inches to clear the intake and alternator. The cone filter and stem leading into the throttle body can easily be fixed, and cutting the framework underside of the hood would not be enough.
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It may be only me but it looks like in your second pic that the front of the motor is a lot higher than the rear. Like on an upward slant. If it is that could be the reason the alternator and air filter will touch.
Just my 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
This is an old pic off this site Kyle 68ss
Thank you for sharing that pic. It is encouraging to go back to the drawing board (plus I'll inquire in the LSX and LS1 Tech boards) regarding lower profile brackets. In this pic you can see how high the mount bracket stands off the frame crossmember. Also, I did see a simple alternator bracket from Billet Speed which may work for lowering the alternator. I will say, after research hoods and scoops, plus looking at pics of what others have done, I have decided against changing the appearance of the car. The exterior is original with it's vinyl top and trim, and I decided not to change that. If I am forced to get a lower profile intake, so be it. There is less chance of boogering up that modification than there is in modifying the exterior appearance. Thanks for your feedback.

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Discussion Starter #11
Sorry After reading further on that pic he has a cowl hood . I know the make tall and short motor mount frame stands, which one are you using ?
I have the original stock brackets. They look new because of the recent powder coating.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
They just look so tall, how much can you lower it without interference with other parts ?
I have a 1st gen with a clip so not that familiar with 3rd gens, just tryin ti help, I’m bored!
If yer on the LS1 Tech board I posted in the LSX forum. Will be interesting to see what ideas come out. I do appreciate your comments.
 

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If fiberglass is an option for you(you mentioned Harwood), then there is also GlassTek, VFN, US Body Source, ArtFiberglass, Fiber Concepts, Stinger Fiberglass, and Unlimited Fiberglass.

Ultra-Carbo has carbon fiber hoods if you want to spend the coin. Feather Carbon does both fiberglass and carbon fiber versions.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Last night I put dabs of grease on the three highest points which are the likely causes to preventing my stock hood from closing: The bolthead which holds the MAP sensor in place in top of the intake, the stem plugging a vacuum port on top of the intake, and the top edge of the alternator. The bolt for the MAP sensor is the first object and it hits the outer edge of the underside framework where it curls downward. If I notch that point to go around the MAP, I'll gain almost an inch of clearance where I need it at that spot. The plug for the vacuum port can be replaced with a lower profile cap and/or cutting that port stem shorter and plugging it solid with JB Weld type product. Regarding the alternator, I'm told (need to verify) that an Impala alternator can be used as a replacement and it is two inches narrower in diameter, which would give that an inch more clearance to work with instead of swapping out more accessory brackets. I know the cone air filter and stem attached to the TB is an issue and there are numerous ways around that. I haven't found one yet, but I hear there is a spacer for directing the TB downward, with about 1/8" thickness at the bottom and 1/2" on the top. That would redirect the cone filter and the curved extension further down and away from the hood underside. Finally, I also need to look at the subframe-to-body mount bushings. There is word that I can get taller bushings than those I have to lift the body up another 1/2". It sounds very promising with those ideas that I'll be able to stay with my original hood and overall appearance... hopefully.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have a $100 solution... Without too many details, here is the scoop. MasterPro Strut Rod Bushing Kit K8659 to replace the body mounts gave almost 1" more height in the body away from the subframe. Holley Throttle Body Angle Adapter for the current and future air cleaner and piping. Dremel tool to cut-out where needed on the hood's underside framework for MAP sensor and alternator clearance. Even without notching the hood underside framework, the hood closed but would just touch the MAP and alternator high-points. The cutouts will provide almost an inch more clearance which will allow for the compressing from the new body mounts.

Hood Clearance #2.png
 
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