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Hey guys, getting ready to stitch weld my new tubs and trunck sheetmetal. I know I have seen a thread with some info in seam sealer but I cant find it. Please help me out, where can I find some, how well does it work, and any tips on use would be great. I plan on priming and splatter painting when done.
 

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I have a extra case (12) tubes of Dow 732 black

This is the stuff!!! Used by NASCAR teams.
Dow Corning 732 Multi-Purpose Sealant
Part #: 732
Description:
Dow Corning® 732 Multi-Purpose Sealant is a one-part silicone rubber; adheres to a variety of surfaces, has good resistance to weathering, moisture and temperature extremes and is non-flowable. Cures to form a tough and flexible rubber.

I paid 50.00 a case (12). (got in on quantity buy)
10.1oz tubes used in a caulking gun.



Al
 

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ive used 3M 8308,

OR 3M 8115

8308 is a true 3M seal sealer and works real good, 8115 is an expoy, but will work as a sealer if you can affford it

you have to use a special gun for these 3M products
 

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Hey guys, getting ready to stitch weld my new tubs and trunck sheetmetal. I know I have seen a thread with some info in seam sealer but I cant find it. Please help me out, where can I find some, how well does it work, and any tips on use would be great. I plan on priming and splatter painting when done.
Just curious.. Why not fully weld the panels? JR
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just curious.. Why not fully weld the panels? JR
In most spots I will if I can. The main area I need it is where the new wheel tubs will meet the quarter pannel and maybe where the new tubs meet the frame rails on the inside of the trunk. The 18 guage gets tought to weld and have it look good on long seams.
 

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Can it be painted and how big of a gap can it fill?
yes it can be painted.

NASCAR uses it to fill gaps in panels. I have used it on 1/8 gaps and some bigger gaps in boats.

It's not very liquid, it's firm sealant.

Al
 

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3M Ultrapro URETHANE seam sealer is tough to beat! very good stuff! There are copies of it out there made by Rubberseal, Transtar, Fusor, and others. Make sure you use the urethane type and not the old style solvent based stuff that dries up,shrinks, and cracks. Also, very important to prime all of your bare metal with a quality epoxy primer first before applying the seamsealer. If you do this right and apply the seam sealer over the epoxy within it's recoat window the stuff will almost fuse together with the epoxy primer. Never apply seamsealers to bare metal.
 

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3M Ultrapro is great! Also Fusor makes their type which is the 800. Stay away from the old solvent based ultrapro and fast and firm, etc they will dry up, shrink, and crack over time. Also make sure you have the primer down before any seamsealer applications. Epoxy primed surface within it's recoat window will give the best adhesion.
There is also what they call MSP which a lot of companies copy like Fuzor, Rubberseal, Transtar, etc. MSP is one you can spray while wet and it also will give you the factory looking brush marks.
What I think is funny is a guy named Bob on Southern Polyurethanes told me about this and now that I looked above there is a Bob that seems to know his stuff and he was from Champion MI... Is that you or just a coincidence?
 

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3M Ultrapro is great! Also Fusor makes their type which is the 800. Stay away from the old solvent based ultrapro and fast and firm, etc they will dry up, shrink, and crack over time. Also make sure you have the primer down before any seamsealer applications. Epoxy primed surface within it's recoat window will give the best adhesion.
There is also what they call MSP which a lot of companies copy like Fuzor, Rubberseal, Transtar, etc. MSP is one you can spray while wet and it also will give you the factory looking brush marks.
What I think is funny is a guy named Bob on Southern Polyurethanes told me about this and now that I looked above there is a Bob that seems to know his stuff and he was from Champion MI... Is that you or just a coincidence?
Yeah, that's me..... hope I helped you out with some useful tips. My home computer needs some upgrades-I can't post on the SPI forum the way it is now as it bumps me off.
 

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Haha that's funny. Small... well not world but internet I guess haha. Yeah I have not been over there on those forums too much. I check up on it here and there since I am a mod in a section or two. I will be over there more soon, especially when I get the body work and welding started on my wagon, I will post my progress.
 

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just make sure you use etching primer on the bare metal before you apply the 1 part seam sealer. otherwise it will rust under the sealer if its applied directly to bare metal.......
 

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In most spots I will if I can. The main area I need it is where the new wheel tubs will meet the quarter pannel and maybe where the new tubs meet the frame rails on the inside of the trunk. The 18 guage gets tought to weld and have it look good on long seams.
Gottcha... And yeah, prolly dont want to be putting too much heat at the quarter anyway huh?? Will be strong enough too. Pics are always good, drooollll... I love seeing all the pics from the builds. I like to steal, um, borrow ideas :) JR
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Gottcha... And yeah, prolly dont want to be putting too much heat at the quarter anyway huh?? Will be strong enough too. Pics are always good, drooollll... I love seeing all the pics from the builds. I like to steal, um, borrow ideas :) JR
Already have a thread started for the frame rails. Sheetmetal will be up after this weekends work.:D
 

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A body guy i know did a 64 and the guy who built it welded the tubs SOLID to the outer quarters, even buring through the body in several spots. Body guy said he took one look at it and said he would spend a week on the quarters alone for 2500 bucks and keep in mind this was side work between friends! I saw picks and it came out good and they said the car was solid as could be. He also said he would NEVER do it again.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
A body guy i know did a 64 and the guy who built it welded the tubs SOLID to the outer quarters, even buring through the body in several spots. Body guy said he took one look at it and said he would spend a week on the quarters alone for 2500 bucks and keep in mind this was side work between friends! I saw picks and it came out good and they said the car was solid as could be. He also said he would NEVER do it again.

Yea I have seen huge problems doing that. I want to use the seam sealer for around the quarter areas.
 
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