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Mine somehow came loose last week and I want to make sure its set correctly. Is it pull the cable as far as you can, and lock it in at full throttle?


Its a Lokar set up if that matters
 

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Bowtie Overdrives has the correct procedure posted on line last time I looked
 

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TCI also has the procedure posed on thier site,basicly at full throttle there should be 1/8 ish pull left in the cable
 

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so what's with the fluid pressure? i haven't yet read up on the 700's but now that i have one... the cable & fluid pressure has to be set, or what?

thought maybe you could give me a quick reply and save me a lot of reading over there. :doh: LOL! ;)
 

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Bottom line is the cable controls line pressure,if its adjusted to loose the pressure is to low and it burns itself up in a hurry:(Obvoiusly you do not want the cable to be your WOT throttle stop hence the 1/8 travel still availabe at WOT
 

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Cool... now i know E-v-e-r-y-t-h-i-n-g! :rolleyes: :doh: ;)

Thanks Brutha, i'll still read the tutorials. appreciate the quick & simple ;)
 

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With a correct GM type ratcheting adjuster, which are very common in the aftermarket and work just as well its like this.

The adjuster has a cable lock that firmly attaches to the cable. When setting up a new cable you push the barrel all the way into the housing of the adjuster (the "D" looking shiny metal is a button, press it to release the ratchet to push the barrel into the housing). Lock the cable to the adjuster with no throttle, but no slack in the cable, finger pulled tight is good. Doesnt have to be super tight, the cable. With the engine off push down on the throttle to floored. Its set! That easy.

Whats it doing? When all conditions are OFF. No engine, no throttle and the center of the ratchet barrel is fully in its at a steady state. When you depress the throttle the ratcheting cable adjuster pulls the center of the adjuster, what I call the barrel out to its maximum distance for YOUR full throttle motion. What that does is sets the low side (idle) and the high side (full throttle). The adjuster if its built from the GM design, is set.

I have played with the system some just to get an understanding. Careful to NOT drive the car under a poor condition. If you pull too much (force and disengage the automatic ratchet) on the cable you make the trans shift late (forcing it to think you are at full throttle when you are at light throttle) and will end up going no where as the torque converter spins up, the trans never shifts up.

Too much slack in the cable will make the trans stay in gear too long and again, spins the TQ converter and it will be drivable but will be a dog.

Use the specified adjustment process and it will shift just fine.

BUT!! The carb or TB linkage should be considered. I have an odd linkage so thats the only reason I was chasing the shifting.

A sure way to map the shifting is with fluid pressures off the trans. I had such a hard time I ended up routing a high pressure line to a gauge in the passengers compartment. If you do this (and I dont recommend it for the new to car guy) you need to gather up the operating pressures of the trans. I got the recommended pressures and dialed in the trans with the gauge. Now yer not supposed to keep the gauge in place but I got lazy. I need to remove it. 270 psi of trans fluid is NOT what you want in yer passengers compartment. JR
 

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thanks, read up a while back on the gauging. i'll be doing that also. interesting info, i'll go take a look at my cable and see what it is. my throttle is 1st Gen stocker mechanical. i'll be researching the proper cable retainer bracket, was thinking i saw a GM unit that member's had praised at being a quality piece. i'm not in the need for anything fancy, chrome or aluminum. this is a daily-driver/cruiser ex-manny-fied V8... :D
 

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The tranny guy that built my 700r4 stressed to me two things.

If the TV cable is not adjusted right you will burn out the transmission in no time.

Invest in a half decent transmission cooler as heat is the other enemy with a 700r4.
I went through the radiator cooler and then the stacked plate type transmission cooler mounted in fron of my radiator.
 

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Another thing to keep in mind is the location of the stud on the carb. If it isn't in the correct place to get the right travel the pressure in the transmission will not be correct. If you are using holley carb they sell a kit to locate the stud in the correct place.
 

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pressure ck route

see here if you need pressures.
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/700r4-low-pressure-problem-52687.html
Also, Im not sure about the slack at full throttle. Ive always adjusted mine so at max throttle the TV cable was tight. Also make sure there is no slack as soon as you come off idle. There should be no bunching of the cable and you should get IMMEDIATE pressure rise once you start to depress the throttle
 

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Mine somehow came loose last week and I want to make sure its set correctly. Is it pull the cable as far as you can, and lock it in at full throttle?


Its a Lokar set up if that matters
FYI My buddy had the Lokar setup on his car and the barrel nut would work itself loose. He eventually put two nuts on it and it never came loose again.
 
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