Chevy Nova Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Banned
Joined
·
26,231 Posts
depends on how clean the crank is. sometimes the numbers can be faint, sometimes encrusted with old crusty oil. hot soapy water and a plastic or brass brush or a scotchbrite on castings only not on journals. wash journals with a rag/washcloth. small diameter barrel brushes for oil holes. a length of brake line tubing split lengthwise and a barrel brush can be brazed/crimped and used for cleaning the blocks oil galley passages. i'm figuring if you're looking at your crank you'll be soon addressing the block.

get some Dawn dishsoap and a large rubbermaid container and stick the engine parts in there and scrub the heck out of 'em. machine shops like things clean, hot tanking isn't always necessary if parts are properly cleaned... then cleaned some more after machine work then again prior to reassembly...

clean it up and carefully go over the whole crank. is the casting/forging line on the throw just below snout wide or is it sharp/narrow? take a pic of your crank, let's see it. ;)

it's not on a turned area of a counterweight... it's on the casting/forging of the crank.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
205 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
depends on how clean the crank is. sometimes the numbers can be faint, sometimes encrusted with old crusty oil. hot soapy water and a plastic or brass brush or a scotchbrite on castings only not on journals. wash journals with a rag/washcloth. small diameter barrel brushes for oil holes. a length of brake line tubing split lengthwise and a barrel brush can be brazed/crimped and used for cleaning the blocks oil galley passages. i'm figuring if you're looking at your crank you'll be soon addressing the block.

get some Dawn dishsoap and a large rubbermaid container and stick the engine parts in there and scrub the heck out of 'em. machine shops like things clean, hot tanking isn't always necessary if parts are properly cleaned... then cleaned some more after machine work then again prior to reassembly...

clean it up and carefully go over the whole crank. is the casting/forging line on the throw just below snout wide or is it sharp/narrow? take a pic of your crank, let's see it. ;)

it's not on a turned area of a counterweight... it's on the casting/forging of the crank.
haha my engine is cleaned up and freshly rebuilt with new cam and pistons bored :cool: will I still be able to see it?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
26,231 Posts
yeah, rotate it real slow and look real close... should be on 3/4 throw webbing (2nd one from snout) if it's an aftermarket crank it'll possibly be laser etched or stamped.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top