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Discussion Starter #1
I have my 8 coats of primer on my car. have wet sanded between every coat with 240. I Just did the base/clear on my fenderwells and only scratched it with 240 and it turned out incredible. But for the actual car im thinking of going to something like 600 before i paint. But im not sure whats the best grit to end up with before paint.

Any help would be great!

Rennskii
 

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I've done a few cars and only go up to 400 wet before final color or base. I've also read the info sheets for the material I'm using as the manufacturer should know what steps or finish should be on the car before the next layer is applied.
I've not tried 600 but my opinion is that is too smooth. 400 to me would give the next layer more tooth to bite into even though most paints melt or more chemically bond.

I will say this, any paintwork is a reflection of the surface below. Spend some time if you haven't already and use long sanding boards and blocks and block sand over the gaps like the fender to door, door to quarter, fender to hood, and so on. Ideally when it's all done and polished up you want it to look like someone cut the gaps out in the reflection and there are no wiggles in the reflection from panel to panel.

Jim
 

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when i worked at a body shop we always sanded with 400 wet when spraying solid colors and 600 wet when spraying metallics. if you use too rough of a sand paper with metalic paint it will look like hell. but if you spray a couple coats of color and then color sand it you can get away with it. also make sure to guide coat while blocking the primer.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Alright, well i will be shooting a dark blue metalic. So possibly 600 novabro? And jim, i will be spraying the front fenders and hood off the car, but i will do the sanding with the door to quarter like that. But i have spent countless hours perfecting the surface of my car to get every hairline scratch out. Finally on the 8th layer or primer i think i have a incredibly straight surface all around.

Rennskii(a little nervous to say the least)
 

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1971novaSS said:
And Jim, I will be spraying the front fenders and hood off the car, but i will do the sanding with the door to quarter like that. I have spent countless hours perfecting the surface of my car to get every hairline scratch out. Finally on the 8th layer or primer i think i have a incredibly straight surface all around.

Rennskii(a little nervous to say the least)
There should not be a problem shooting the fenders and hood off of the car but it has to fit right before you take it off and spray it. The better the overall car looks when done the more a person has to assemble it all together to make sure all of the pieces fit and work together and then you take it apart for final finishing.

Here are some links I had on some cars with their panel to panel fit. Some look good and some look VERY good. It's really how much you want to put into it.

Jim


http://community.webshots.com/photo/110677636/1327920673049730488wRsHTh

http://community.webshots.com/photo/110677636/1327920712049730488RSaWPo

http://community.webshots.com/photo/110677636/1327923524049730488kZScwN

http://community.webshots.com/photo/110677636/1327923570049730488LlnrnS

http://community.webshots.com/photo/110677636/1327923685049730488BSgbIE


My car needing more work in one area:

http://community.webshots.com/photo/328498439/1334964413060464735GSvDVg

My car in primer wet sanded down with 400 and the reflection of the garage lighting in the primer (you can see how the quarter sits nice with the door):

http://community.webshots.com/photo/328498439/1334964781060464735bMScuc


A lower edge a lot of people do not address and finish off nicely:

http://community.webshots.com/photo/352164366/1371330025060464735
TmghJb

I want back over the car another time and was not totally happy with the below fit in this one area so I decided to make it better by welding in some more steel. The gap is much more even now and while I took care of the gap problem I now have to work it to where the level of the door skin is level with the area it meets against on the quarter panel:

http://community.webshots.com/photo/512271998/1516570325060464735uPzeVU

I've also used and made my own tools to use to help me get through the body work stage. Here's a shot of a modified sled on an air file. I'm no pro body man and I need all the help I can get sometimes. I used it mostly with 36, 80 and 120 grit paper to knock down the primer and fillers as the original sled had the foam backing on it that the paper layed against and it would roll up and over spots and I just had a hard time using it that way trying to get things flat:

http://community.webshots.com/photo/110677636/1110679786049730488yTibUz
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Wow, thanks a bunch jim. That is some really usefull tips and information. Im going to have to go back and get to sanding again. haha, but its always when u think you are close that u realize u still have more to do. Which is good becuase if i were to spray it without others advice i would basically have a average paint job. And i want to try to make it as good as i personally can.

Thanks again jim. much appreciated!


Rennskii
 

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wow is right. Jim I just learned maybe twice what I knew before. Seriously. Those pictures are a great help!. Now I need something to work on :)
 

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Thanks for the pics Jim they were helpful to me as well.Gives ya a better concept of what to expect before paint.

Paul
 

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1971novaSS: Yep, when you think it's close you have to switch over to looking harder for things that need to be addressed. No car is perfect but a lot come pretty close.

sixtyII: Those are some pictures I got off of the web and the older I get the more I see. Some of these cars were for sale as being "razor straight, flawless, and other words that really didn't describe things correctly. Maybe the cars were in that shape in their opinion but not in mine.

taz3: It is hard to visualize how the car will look in final paint and that's why on my car I'm knocking it down to 400 grit so the primer has a little shine to it so I can sight down it to see how I as an ametuer is progressing. I cannot feel some of the waves a seasoned body man can feel so I have to use reflections to check my work.

Jim
 

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I wet sand all with 600 wet before the base coat. Always looks like glass when I'm done. 400 might be okay on solid color but I just take the extra step.
 

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1971NovaSS make sure you paint the fenders and other parts not on the car in the position they will be mounted. In other words you want to paint the hood flat and fenders upright or your metalic will settle different than the panel it's next to went mounted on the car.
 

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It is hard to visualize how the car will look in final paint and that's why on my car I'm knocking it down to 400 grit so the primer has a little shine to it so I can sight down it to see how I as an ametuer is progressing. I cannot feel some of the waves a seasoned body man can feel so I have to use reflections to check my work.
Jim,

Between the photos and the comment above, I just learned a whole lot today. If you consider yourself an amateur, I must be a newbie. Thanks for the tip.

Jay.
 

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You show a photo of a custom sled you made for your air file. Is that made from Plexiglass? It looks like some kind of hard plastic.
Thanks
Ron
Hey Ron,
I just saw your question from a while back. Yes the sled has a section of plexiglass on it. I got another aluminum portion and removed the foam backing and then cut a piece of plexiglass to fit where the foam backing was at. The aluminum sled has carriage bolts that the heads were under the foam pad so to get the plexiglass piece to sit flat I notched it out where the bolt heads were at and then used liquid nail to glue the plexiglass piece to the aluminum sled portion.
I still have the tool and use it when I need to but the 16" long paper is a tad too long and wants to tear where it bends up towards the paper retaining clips so what I do is wrap a layer or two on the ends of the paper and then smash it tight aagainst the paper in my smooth jaw vise and then take some sizzors and trim the length down to maybe 15 to 15 1/2" long.
The reason I made this sled was I just cannot feel real well the little waves in a body panel when doing bodywork and this seemed to help me out a lot but also too just doing more bodywork I have been getting a better feel to identify high and low spots. I just don't do that kind of stuff all of the time.
Jim
 

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Jim,

Between the photos and the comment above, I just learned a whole lot today. If you consider yourself an amateur, I must be a newbie. Thanks for the tip.

Jay.
I hope they help others too. Bodywork is one of those things I've tried to learn and it just takes time. More time for some, less for others.

Jim
 

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I have just registerd here but have been reading for a long time,graet site by the way.I know the post is old but want to add my 2 cents as this is my trade for almost 30 years,Custom Jim has what we call a good eye in the trade (we don't like guys like him lol).But it not offten someone wants to pay for what you call laser straight,I have found the best way to achieve this is with a 36" block and the car has t be assembled,the secret is,is not to pannel sand which most do,I block between the quarter and door then door and fender always in a cross thatch pattern.Also I start with a spray putty finished in 180 or 240 before I prime,repeat the steps with primer but start with 240 and graduate up in grit as was stated earlier 400 for dark metalics or solid colors and 600 for mid to light metalics.Also I always give the car a good final hand sand to round none sharp corners and edges,and in my oppinion edges are just as important as any thing else they can make a hughe difference when you spend the time to sand them right.
 

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I really don't mean to bring up an old thread, but I really want to view custom Jim's photos and can't. It takes me to some website and I downloaded the software, but that didn't do anything. Any help?
 

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I really don't mean to bring up an old thread, but I really want to view custom Jim's photos and can't. It takes me to some website and I downloaded the software, but that didn't do anything. Any help?
The old webshots I was using was free and now some of the photo's are in video's on youtube ( user name stlnovas ).
I made copies of the pictures before they started charging and I'll see what I have and upload something. May be a few days though. I had a little to much Saint Patty's all day yesterday.

Jim
 

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The old webshots I was using was free and now some of the photo's are in video's on youtube ( user name stlnovas ).
I made copies of the pictures before they started charging and I'll see what I have and upload something. May be a few days though. I had a little to much Saint Patty's all day yesterday.

Jim
Hahahaha, awesome thanks for the intel! As long as the excuse is alcohol its alright by me. :D
 
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