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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, I am new to the Nova scene and to this forum. My '69 has surface rust in the trunk pans, nothing major to the point its eating through the pans but just surface rust, and I want to refinish them. Do I need to sand off the rust first before painting or should I just paint over it?

My plan is to paint the pans with rustoleum spray paint, put down sound deadener, then carpet, and eventually box it in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply but I have never heard of that POR15 before. Researching on their site it seems like a pretty intense process with the degreasing/cleaning solution, the metal prep solution, and then painting on the POR itself which I guess you have to apply with a paint brush. Will the Rustoleum spray paint not protect the pans as well?
 

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I myself used the por-15 and yes u use a paint brush. A quart of this stuff is 40bucks and it did all 4 of my floor pans top and bottom 2 coats on everything as well as my package tray and area's in my trunk. I dont ever want to see rust again in those areas again especially since i had to cut my floor pans out and replace them myself so i went all out i suppose.

I think either way you need to at least use a wire wheel to break up the surface rust and then clean and degrease the trunk pan before you do any painting. I cant stand by rustoluem as that I've never used it on my car in rusted areas but i can tell you that the por-15 is probably one of the best products you can use for rust neutralization and prevention and is widely used be fellow members on this site. It goes on smooth and level and is paintable. Just my 2cents though.

Here's what it looks like when applied...

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79137&highlight=floor+pans
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks so much for the info bro, I really appreciate it. It looks really good on yours! I was just worried that brushing it on it wouldnt come out all that smooth but I guess that wont really matter since it will be covered. Did you use the POR15 brand degreaser and Metal-Ready as well? I think I am gonna go this way since you are pleased with it but not sure if I should get those items as well.
 

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I sanded mine down to bare metal and painted it with a paint brush using Rust Destroyer, you can get that at Home Depot in the paint section, pretty much the same as POR-15 but alot cheaper. Just make sure that you paint over it within 24 hours or your final coat won't stick to the rust preventative.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
3M make a scrub pad style piece that fits a drill and works real well.
Where can you buy one of those?

I bought this at Autozone:



It works ok but is really slow and I have to hold the drill at an akward side angle so it will scrub the side of the pad to the metal.

I also got a wire cup like the one pictured below but it only cleans the dirt off the pans. Not course enough to get to bare metal through the paint.

 

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Sanding trunk/POR-15

I have used POR-15 on several projects over the years, the most recent was my Nova trunk pan. I think it is a great product. It holds up very well. It has evolved quite a bit since I first used it.

Originally, they didn't push the cleaner and prep, which are very effective, but a little pricey. If cost is a concern, you can buy a gallon of Metalprep at a local auto paint store which costs about $7 and mixes 3-1 with water and leaves a phos. coat that protects for about 48hrs. It will work as well as theirs. Two things that I learned that may save you some work. First, a power wire wheel is not recommended. It folds the high spots of metal over, trapping small rust pockets that may resurface later. Secondly, you need to fog the POR-15 with a primer before it dries completely. Otherwise, you will be into some tough sanding in order to get your top coat to adhere. These topics should be covered in the POR-15 instructions. Just wanted to give you a heads up before you went crazy with a wire wheel.
 

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POR-15 Rocks!!!

I did a rotissary restoration on my '64 SS and used POR-15 throughout the whole project! That stuff is the bomb and works 10 times better than Rustoleum (my opion of course)! I would strongly recommend the stuff. I was suprised when I bruched it on to how smooth it comes out after it drys...everyone thinks I sprayed it on!!! I would spend the few extra pennies and buy it over anything else out there...you won't be disappointed. Two things I would suggest if you do decide to use it though: #1 Make sure you buy a good quality brush to apply the POR-15 itself so you don't have a crap load of bristles from the brush falling off and getting embedded in your paint! #2 Definitely hit it with a primer while it's still tacky for a cover coat or else you're going to wish you had after it's too late and be doing a lot of unneccessary sanding to put your cover coat on later (I found this out the hard way and waited too long)! The stuff comes out smooth as glass and hard as slate! I also agree with one of the guys above stating not to use a wire wheel. If at all possible use one of those little touch up sandblasters that are made for isolated spots. This will get every bit of rust out of the pitting so it won't come back to haunt you later! Or you could use Rustoleum or another cheaper product if you want to repeat the process again in a couple of years =)!!! Hope this helps anyways! Good luck!
 

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I used their floor kit about 5 years ago and I was just pulling up the carpet yesterday while doing some under dash wiring and man it was still shiny and new. The Por-15 didnt show any sign of wearing out. That stuff works especially if you buy the kits and follow all the steps from the degreaser down to the metal etcher and zinc coating.
 

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After someone put it all over my L78 car and it's now peeling, I have a great dislike for it, because I can't find any way to remove it that's reasonable. Where it stuck, it's is stuck, but half of it is peeling up. If you use it do it right the first time, because it's a pain to remove if done wrong.:(
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok you have all convinced me to do it right with the POR15 :D

Last question though is: Do I HAVE To paint it? Since it will be covered with sound deadener and carpet it wont be shown. Can I just use the degreaser, metal etcher, and POR and thats it? Or do I need to paint over the POR as well?
 

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NO POR-15 is good on it's own, it's on my frame and standing up well were they applied it right.
 

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only drawback is its UV sensitive so if you apply it anywhere other than your trunk pan thats exposed to sunlight you'll need to paint over it or cover it with something, not a big deal just an FYI.:D
 

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Por 15 rocks

I have used POR/15 for alot area's on all my vehicles and it works great. The trick to it is it loves surface rust, it creates a chemical bond to the rust and is there for good. Make sure you knock off the scales of rust and then brush it on. The only down side is it cannot be exposed to the sun as it will chalk up and flake of due to the UV from the sun. I would POR/15 your floor and then lay down your sound deadner... :yes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I have used POR/15 for alot area's on all my vehicles and it works great. The trick to it is it loves surface rust, it creates a chemical bond to the rust and is there for good. Make sure you knock off the scales of rust and then brush it on. The only down side is it cannot be exposed to the sun as it will chalk up and flake of due to the UV from the sun. I would POR/15 your floor and then lay down your sound deadner... :yes:
Thanks, thats my plan. Actually I am in the process of sanding off most of the rust and the original trunk paint. I ordered all three parts of the POR15 process yesterday so hopefully have that soon and I will paint the sanded pans and then put the Dynamat down.
 
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