[jer66nova]

added pictures in my photo bucket link made repair tihole in driver rocker panel, not finished with it yet itneeds a little more persuading and grinding and welding then the mud work,by the way I am by no means a body man! So if you think it looks jacked up tell me I am learning and want to do it right

 

[Greg_R_63]

slideshow: http://s156.photobucket.com/albums/t33/jer66nova/?action=view&current=df684678.pbw

The welding looks okay, but while you had the rocker open, did you vacuum it out, and spray some rust preventing paint or primer inside? It's important to do as much protection as you can, when you can. There is a lot of surface rust in front of the area you just welded that needs to be wire wheeled off and primed. Hate to see you do all this work for it to rot out again.

 

[chevyii]

rear

great pics. What rear end is that you are working on?

 

[normannova64]

Looks good, watch your heat. And remember

also that you have major heat buildup when grinding too. Trust me, I've

warped some stuff before, and it can be a pain getting it back. Keep us

updated.

 

[Chucks71]

Gregs right....Did you do anything to help stop the rust before closing
it up? Looks like some pretty good flakes there. You should at least
wire wheel or wire brush it and spray some Master Series or Por to
help stop or slow down the rust.:yes:

Take the time to prep it right and now is that time before you paint it
up and it haunts you. Looking at that it will not take long before its
bubbling up on you. Its all in the prep work!

Chuck

 

[customproducts]

Take the time to prep it right and now is that time before you paint it
up and it haunts you. Looking at that it will not take long before its
bubbling up on you. Its all in the prep work!

Chuck

Agreed, the whole haunting thing is not to be underestimated, i have had it happen in the past, and what could have took you 30 or 40 minutes to do now, will take days if it comes back to bite ya in the butt...

 

[jer66nova]

rear end

great pics. What rear end is that you are working on?

Its the rear for my car, 9 inch with ford explorer brakes,35 spline axles 4-link brackets installed

 

[shaggy]

I just recieved 1 gallon of the Master Series silver primer for my subframe. Lots of people here highly recommend the stuff.

 

[jer66nova]

rust prep work

Gregs right....Did you do anything to help stop the rust before closing
it up? Looks like some pretty good flakes there. You should at least
wire wheel or wire brush it and spray some Master Series or Por to
help stop or slow down the rust.:yes:

Take the time to prep it right and now is that time before you paint it
up and it haunts you. Looking at that it will not take long before its
bubbling up on you. Its all in the prep work!

Chuck

Thanks guys for the remarks the other end needs to be boxed in as well treated it with rust convertor changes rust to iron oxide( chemical convertor) turns the metal black and ready for body filler, and primers. whole car will be primered in same yellow zinc primer that is on the roof, that primer was under water 14+- days during andafter Katrina and only slight surface rust came back compared to parts that were not sprayed! I am a believer! I ts a product by Diamont auto paint dont know the part # but I'll try to get it and post it. The paint guy swears by itfor projects like this that wont see paint for a while to preserve your work.

 

[customproducts]

Its a product by Diamont auto paint dont know the part # but I'll try to get it and post it. The paint guy swears by itfor projects like this that wont see paint for a while to preserve your work.

Diamont is made by RM, which is made by BASF, i think RM has a site with all there products, RM is good stuff, there base is spectacular...

 

[jer66nova]

rm products

Diamont is made by RM, which is made by BASF, i think RM has a site with all there products, RM is good stuff, there base is spectacular...

correct custom by the way weren't you to let me know about some fenders you had and som other stuff and prices??

 

[TerryT]

Hey I was looking through your pics and cant help to wonder if you couldnt have started with a less rusted car? Being down south, I would think a more solid start wouldnt be too hard to find. You seem to have a lot of rusted out areas on there. And especially when you mention you were no means a body man. You will be once done. I'm not knocking your efforts, but I think you might of been able to save some sweat with a different start. Either way good luck with it!

 

[Leobuff]

For being by no means a bodyman you are doing GREAT. There are always things you could have done after the fact and new products coming out all the time to help with the rust issue. I've made my living at this since 1976 and all I can say is you can never do enough to stop or prevent rust. Ask your paint supplier about wax coat and a 360 degree wand. Its good protection and he can show you and explain its use. Your patch work and welding look very good. keep up the good work.

Three things to remember.
1. Kill the rust
2. Kill the @^%)# rust
and 3. Kill the *&^$%)^$(*&^%n RUST!!!:yes:

 

[jer66nova]

rust prep work

Hey I was looking through your pics and cant help to wonder if you couldnt have started with a less rusted car? Being down south, I would think a more solid start wouldnt be too hard to find. You seem to have a lot of rusted out areas on there. And especially when you mention you were no means a body man. You will be once done. I'm not knocking your efforts, but I think you might of been able to save some sweat with a different start. Either way good luck with it!

Well before Katrina it was in better shape, remember this car was submerged in salt water for at least 10-14 days a mix of who knows what other chemicals, acid or ???? I have friends who scrapped their whole cars because they were ate up so bad from that Bioootch Katrina water! I looked at other bodies found plenty hard tops but I am a sedan man! not many around here,and for what I got into mine already its cheaper to fix mine