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I’m really thinking about getting a rotisserie to make things easier working on the 74. I’ve already done floor pans on it so that’s done. Would I need to do any kind of bracing on the inside to have on a rotisserie, or will the body hold up since it has its own built in framing? I plan on doing work underneath and thanks to my job working on the floor isn’t as easy as it use to be.
 

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Hi there . . . maybe go here & rear this post . . . . great " Rotisserie build thread" . It's very Good Reading, anyway . (cheaper way to go) .

Also, go find member " JMark " build - - - he put his 3rd gen on a Rotisserie , with pictures . . . can't remember if he used ' inside braces ' . . . . but, that would be in he's photos .

Hope this helps . . . jim
 

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I just might pull the trigger and get one. Looking at the titan rotisserie from jmc auto equipment. And it has free shipping. I have to clean up the garage a little before I get it though.
 

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Hi there . . . maybe go here & rear this post . . . . great " Rotisserie build thread" . It's very Good Reading, anyway . (cheaper way to go) .

Also, go find member " JMark " build - - - he put his 3rd gen on a Rotisserie , with pictures . . . can't remember if he used ' inside braces ' . . . . but, that would be in he's photos .

Hope this helps . . . jim
I did not use any bracing but as livestoride said, on a convertible for sure.
 

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I’m really thinking about getting a rotisserie to make things easier working on the 74. I’ve already done floor pans on it so that’s done. Would I need to do any kind of bracing on the inside to have on a rotisserie, or will the body hold up since it has its own built in framing? I plan on doing work underneath and thanks to my job working on the floor isn’t as easy as it use to be.
I purchased a slightly used one that I found on Marketplace for $600 ($1300 new). It is quite common to see used rotisseries priced in the $600-$800 range.
 

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I did my 63 on a rotisserie and since it was a convertible I had to brace it . After taking off the rotisserie it had not moved at all. View attachment 398071 View attachment 398070 View attachment 398069 View attachment 398068 View attachment 398067
I forgot to mention that if anybody was curious in what i used for the frame to brace. This all was bought from a Lowe and is top rail fence from a chain link fence.The T brackets help hold in place and was screwed into place on the car to brace. I cut a 6 inch pipe to put in corners to stack on. When all built there is small holes in brackets I put set screws in so nothing moves .
 

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I built mine in 2018 using these plans for the same reason you mentioned. Works great. I don't know how I managed to get as far as I did without it honestly. I made a few mods. Added rollers to the primary (outer) sliders and used 3/4" threaded rod with thrust bearings for the primary (outer) height adjusters. It cost about $750 to build at the time. I ordered all the steel from a local supplier. One thing to keep in mind, It's important that the rotiss has a way to balance the car height. The inner carriage needs to be able to adjust the pivot height. The finer (and easier) the adjust-ability, the better. This will allow you to balance the car perfectly on it's axis which makes it very easy to rotate it into any position and leave it there. This balance changes as you add and remove things, I've had to adjust mine a few times as I added cage bars. The rotary locking mechanism needs to be considered. I welded the nuts and bolts onto my pivot section but never use them. It's just too little surface area for the mass of a car body IMO. I didn't want to gall up the pinion shaft or distort the pinion sleeve. I used some old brake rotors and scrap steel plate to make a mating disc assembly on both pinions. Then I use a c-clamp or large vise grip to clamp them when positioned, If I need it secure. You need a way to lock the car in position for when your doing work and leaning or climbing on it. Casters: Bigger casters are better and make it easier to move. I had to cut off my original 4" castors and replace them with heavier, 6" locking castors. They lock the castor wheel and pivot. I always use jack stands under the car when level and working inside. OCD I guess but I don't want to stress things any more than necessary.

When I sandblasted the car (made one of those too), I wheeled it outside, unlocked the pinions (covered them with old sheets) and could spin the car as I blasted.

398276
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did you use your rear bumper mounts to attach the rear of the rotisserie? Will be putting mine on one either sometime this week or next weekend. It's a 1st gen.
 

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did you use your rear bumper mounts to attach the rear of the rotisserie? Will be putting mine on one either sometime this week or next weekend. It's a 1st gen.
Yes sir we fabbed the whole back end below the trunk area so we used our holes as bumper mounts later everything is pulled in closer
 

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I just took the time to look at the pics of the underside of your car. It looks like it just rolled out of the factory. It is beautiful. What did you spray the bottom with?
 

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Thank you. Way to many hours on the underside
We sprayed U Pol Raptor on the underside and under the front fenders
 
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