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Discussion Starter #1
Someone whos running a similar combo or have tips on good Hyd Roller camshaft? I will "dump" my flat tappet 274 for a Hyd roller that will match my valvesprings...

I have Comps #904 1.550 springs installed at 1.960 so they are 130 seat pressure and 360 open. Max rec lift .600

Combo:
Engine: Chevy 350 bored .030 and stroked to 383
Rotating assembly: (Internal balanced)
Crank: Scat 3.75 stroke crankshaft
Rods: Scat Premium 7/16 ARP bolts I-beam 6” bushed connecting rods
Pistons: SRP forged piston & pins (inverted dome -16cc) around 9.8-10.2 cr
Rings: Sealed power 1/16 1/16 3/16 moly piston rings
Bearings: Clevite P rod & main bearings

Heads: Brodix RR 200 Alu heads with 64cc CNCd combustion chambers & 1.550 springs.
130 seat pressure 360 open .600 max lift
Intake Manifold: Brodix dual plane intake
Carb: Holley 750 HP carb

Exhaust: 1 5/8 under chassi headers connected to 2 1/2 dual exhaust (sidepipes)

Transmission: TH350 transmission with B&M Holeshot 1900 converter
Gears: 3.55 posi

Vehicle: 1963 Chevy II/Nova 3200 pounds with driver


Note; If needed I will buy another converter with higher stall, maybe even go with bigger primaries on headers.
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Thanks
Matt
 

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Its hard to recommend a cam without knowing your concerns for manners? With your combo i would say something like a herbert 242-242 with .567-.567 on a 110 lobe center.You will need a 3000 stall and 1/34 headers could help up top.This cam will pull hard and make power to about 6000 in a 383 ,which is perfect because most lifters give up after that.
Yu cant beat a roller cam for power, but you really dont need a solid roller for 6000 rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys!

Well this is supposed to be a summertime daily/weekend driver. I will stay below 6500 RPM because I dont want to trade off all that nice bottom and midrange power.

Anyway, the Race Rites need some lift and duration to breath and perform well.
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Flow:
.050 - 34/26
.100 - 67/63
.200 - 134/114
.300 - 194/164
.400 - 243/181
.500 - 266/189
.600 - 270/193
.700 - 279/195
All tests at 28", radius inlet, 4.155 bore, no pipe
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I was thinking HYD roller instead of a solid because of less maintenance and less stress on the parts. I guess something around 230-240 dur and around .550-560 lift would be ok for a mean street car.

Maybe Im wrong here but I dont think 450 hp and a whole bunch of torque is impossible with this combo and a good cam, what do you think?

Matt
 

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I like the XR282 hyd roller I just installed. I think you could get 450 hp easy with your combo..

Here's a 383 dyno using the XR282:

Combo 8 uses the Trick Flow 23° Street heads. These heads are not the Twisted Wedge heads for which Trick Flow became known. Instead, these are direct bolt-on heads, and are marketed to compete with $750/pair to $1,000/pair heads such as the World Products Sportsman II, Dart Iron Eagle, Edelbrock Performer RPM, Holley Systemax, etc. With some help from the roller cam, this engine makes 460 HP and 451 ft-lbs of torque.
Displacement: 383 cu. in.
Carburetor: Holley 750 double pumper
Heads: Trick Flow 23° Street
Intake: Edelbrock Victor Jr.
Camshaft: Comp Cams hydraulic roller, with 230/236° of duration @ 0.050 in. lift, and 0.510/0.520 in. lift
Rockers: Trick Flow roller, 1.5:1
Headers: 1 3/4 in. primaries, with 3 in. exhaust and Flowmaster mufflers
Pistons: KB hypereutectic, 12 cc dish
Rods: Trick Flow forged, 5.7 in.
Crank: Trick Flow forged
Distributor: MSD Billet with 6AL ignition
Comp. Ratio: 10.0:1

MAX HP: 460 @ 6000
MAX Torque: 451 @ 5000
 

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I was thinking HYD roller instead of a solid because of less maintenance
I used the same excuse for not wanting a solid cam, the guys at Comp persuaded me otherwise--similar cam grinds will see up to 25 more h.p. with solids instead of hyd. I go thousands and thousands of miles without any maintenance--drives my buddies nuts! When I finally do get around to running the valves, they are barely different from when last adjusted.
 

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bowtie0069 said:
I used the same excuse for not wanting a solid cam, the guys at Comp persuaded me otherwise--similar cam grinds will see up to 25 more h.p. with solids instead of hyd. I go thousands and thousands of miles without any maintenance--drives my buddies nuts! When I finally do get around to running the valves, they are barely different from when last adjusted.
Whenever I decide to go with a roller cam, it will be a solid roller. I'm not gonna spend all that $$$ for a retro-fit roller cam and roller lifters for a hydraulic roller!!!



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Hey Nova63. Go and buy the current Chevy High Performance mag.(july 06) . They dyno test 6 different Comp Cams hyd. rollers. for the 383 chevy.It is a very good article. Hope it helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys!

Laser, thanx for the tips. I dont put much trust into those magazines these days, but I will check it out anyway... I guess there will be some good info there.

Thanks everbody for input!

Matt
 

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I used the same excuse for not wanting a solid cam, the guys at Comp persuaded me otherwise--similar cam grinds will see up to 25 more h.p. with solids instead of hyd. I go thousands and thousands of miles without any maintenance--drives my buddies nuts! When I finally do get around to running the valves, they are barely different from when last adjusted.
I ran a comp mechanical roller cam setup for years. I always drive to the nats no matter where they are, I do a lot of parades with a lot of around town idling.
With that said I switched to a hydraulic roller setup. In my application I found the longest I could run the mechanical roller lifters was two cruising seasons. I ran the comp super rollers, then switched to the comp endurex rollers then cranes best roller lifter. After the second season I would always find one or two rollers that were in the process of starting to fail. If I would spin the rollers by hand you could definetly feel it. I think the amout of idling I did played a role in the failure rate.
I switched to a Isky hydraulic roller setup, I just wanted a nastalgic cam manufacture. Been very pleased with it, seems to be much easier on the valve train.
Not sure about your valve spring pressures. I will have to pull my spec sheet, for some reason both pressures seem a little light for a roller setup.

Tg
 

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I run a solid flat tappet lifter, almost hate to say I set it and forget it. I check it a couple times a season, but rarely do I have to make an adjustment. No more than hydraulics I have run. Also when I switched from hydraulic to solid, near the same cam specs, I didn't see any change in ET.
 

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I found the longest I could run the mechanical roller lifters was two cruising seasons.
I ran my Comp 280 solid roller for about 30,000 miles until a lifter problem wiped out a lobe--then I read you should inspect them every 3000 miles..... oops!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
"Not sure about your valve spring pressures. I will have to pull my spec sheet, for some reason both pressures seem a little light for a roller setup."

Well, the tags on the springs attached by Brodix says *for HYD roller cam*

I've checked around some and it seems like there pressures is in the Hyd roller cam range as far as I can see. I was intended to run a flat tappet at first, but thought the pressure was on the high side for that in a street car...

Well, I guess its just about who ya ask ;)

Thanks
Matt
 

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Those valve springs are not acceptable regardless of the roller you run. 130 seat pressure with any roller cam is an issue. The most important aspect of your proposed change to me would be those valve springs. I would say that at a bare minimun, with a very small hydraulic roller you should have 190lbs on the seat.

Assuming you buy a cam with the same duration at 50, you can expect about 35 more hp (combination of faster ramps and reduced friction).
 

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I think your springs are fine. When in doubt check with the cam manufacture. On my hydraulic roller setup Isky recommends 135 seat / 350 open.
Tg
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah, what I have understand my spring pressure seem to be just right for an HYD roller. I dont really know what nova10sec means, but if he could explain it would be great.

Matt
 

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a bare minimun, with a very small hydraulic roller you should have 190lbs on the seat
I've run a few different solid rollers with only 175lbs. of spring--worked fine at 7600 and the occasional oops! to beyond that. 190lbs. will probably collapse the hydraulic lifter.
 

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loneagle said:
I like the XR282 hyd roller I just installed. I think you could get 450 hp easy with your combo..
That's the cam I chose, the XR282HR, for a 383 build-up fairly similar to yours. I had mine custom ground on a billet core with a small base circle and changed to a 111LSA. I chose to go with the billet core after reading far too many stories about problems with Comp cast-core roller cams. I can't yet tell you how it performed, it's built and waiting to go on the dyno. I'll post back in a couple weeks once it's been dynoed.

Here's the specs:
Displacement: 384 cu. in. (4.040" bore)
Heads: AFR 195cc with 71cc chambers (10.1:1CR)
Valvesprings: Isky (don't have specs at the moment)
Camshaft: Comp Cams hydraulic roller, with 230/236° of duration @ 0.050 in. lift, and 0.510/0.520 in. lift, 111LSA, gound on billet core
Lifters: Comp retro-roller
Rockers: Comp Pro-Magnum roller, 1.6 ratio
Pistons: SRP forged
Rods: 5.7" Scat I-beam w/ 7/16" capscrews forged
Crank: Stock cast
Carburetor: Pro-Systems Holley 4150HP double pumper
Intake: Edelbrock RPM Air Gap
Headers: 1 5/8" in. primaries, with 2.5" in. Magnaflow exhaust w/ X-pipe
Distributor: MSD Billet E-curve with Blaster SS coil

Transmission: Tremec TKO-600 5-speed
Gears: 3.42
Vehicle: 1972 Nova

I realize this doesn't do you much good without dyno results, but if your not planning to do this right away I will have results to post in about two weeks (I hope!).
 

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