[nick72nova]

i have a hydraulic flat tappet cam in my car now...if i wanted to switch to a fuller roller setup would any modifications have to be done to the block to use a roller cam...

 

[chevyIIheavy]

you will need to get link bar roller lifters ( pre 80s block ) they also call it retrofiting and older motor for hydrolic roller. your going to need to check pushrod lenght and use a thrust button , block protecter as well ( torrington bearing ) between the cam sprocket and block

 

[thmpsn70]

don't forgot a brass distributor gear

 

[nick72nova]

ok thanks for the info

 

[jlowery78]

It's very pricy too. I think around $900.00.

 

[bowtie0069]

if i wanted to switch to a fuller roller setup

What's a "fuller" roller? Did you mean "full" roller? Is that different than a partial roller? You either have a roller cam, or you don't--there is no in between.

 

[veno]

I never heard of a fuller cam?... new Company?

just a dumb old question.... why do you want to change to a fuller cam from a flat tappet?...

what is the goal behind it other than spending a grand or more?

what level of performance do you wnat or is it a sound your after....

If you thinking Hyd. roller cam... I'll out run ya with a FT mechanical cam....

 

[jlowery78]

I like the sound of a solid lifter valvetrain.:yes:

 

[veno]

how does it sound any different from a solid FT cam? asuming a solid roller.... they both make the same clicking sound from the rockers taping the tops of the valve stem:yes:

a hyd roller will make no noise just like a Hyd Ft cam:yes:

If your getting more noise from a roller cam than a ft cam.. the cam has issues...

 

[D-Man]

don't forgot a brass distributor gear

That would depend on the cam core.:yes:
99% of the hydraulic rollers and probably 75% of the solid rollers sold today are either ground on cast cores or have a melonized distributor gear so a standard cast iron distributor gear can be used.:yes:

I always recommend getting a cast gear on a billet core anyway (Lunati and a couple other companies do it as standard practice:yes: so......no extra charge:no because it eliminates the problem of having to use a sacrificial (bronze or plastic) distributor gear. ESPECIALLY in big blocks or applications running a high volume or high pressure oil pump.


As for the original posters question, I'm with Veno. Why do you want to make the change? There's a lot better options for that amount of money spent.:yes: A GOOD set of cylinder heads and hydraulic cam would be one example.

Nobody's mentioned the valve spring upgrade that will most likely also be required.:yes: ESPECIALLY if the change is to a solid roller of ANY type.:yes: And they aren't recommended for street use either.:no: Some do it and run the risk of the catastrophic damage a failing lifter can cause but 99% of the time it's not worth it.:no: Especially when I can generally get more "area under the curve" with an aggressive solid flat tappet and live a nice long happy life with no worries. Unlike what Comp Cams recommends with their solid rollers......Pull and check them every few thousand miles and possibly need to send them in for a rebuild.

Let us know what you've got and what you're actually trying to accomplish and I'm sure the brains around here will lead you in the proper direction.

 

[nick72nova]

What's a "fuller" roller? Did you mean "full" roller? Is that different than a partial roller? You either have a roller cam, or you don't--there is no in between.

i have stamped rocker arms and a hydraulic cam..by full roller setup i meant roller rockers, roller cam and lifters...sorry guy

 

[firebird77clone]

If you're just wanting to spend money on your cam, then you can go the extra 'roller' mile.. and get roller bearings installed instead of the standard cam bearings. this requires the block cam journals be machined out to accept the roller bearings.

I understand the price of the roller bearings is cheap, compared to the machine bill.

 

[chevyIIheavy]

may i also recomend matching the valve springs with the cam grind that you will get i beleive www.compcams.com has some more info for you there to

 

[chevyIIheavy]

If you're just wanting to spend money on your cam, then you can go the extra 'roller' mile.. and get roller bearings installed instead of the standard cam bearings. this requires the block cam journals be machined out to accept the roller bearings.

I understand the price of the roller bearings is cheap, compared to the machine bill.

i think his motor is together though ...... i beleive he is just doing a cam swap ....... at least thats what it sounds like to me

 

[71SS454]

Unless this is a full race engine with big aftermarket heads, then I'd just run a nice solid flat tappet cam with a nice set of rockers. For a street engine only, you don't need a solid roller, and in my opinion a hydraulic roller isn't worth the expense. If this is to be a drag strip stormer, then by all means go with a solid roller, but for anythign else, solid flat tappet.

 

[The Big Al]

i have a hydraulic flat tappet cam in my car now...if i wanted to switch to a fuller roller setup would any modifications have to be done to the block to use a roller cam...

No block modifications needed.

You will need to use aftermarket lifters and cam.

OEM production roller cams & lifters will not work in flat tappet engines.

Al