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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I am installing a 8-point cage in my 73 and I need to know how you guys connected/welded the cage to the body. I will be racing in NHRA and need to follow their guidlines. The rulebook says I can weld it to the rocker sill with a slag of 6"x6"x1/4" metal. Can you guys give me suggestions, pictures, insight, and more information on your whole roll cage setups? I plan on buying a Comp Engineering kit from Summit Racing specifcally for our Novas.

thanks alot!
-wes
 

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The kit should have the 6x6 plates included. On my 69 we cut holes and attached the main hoop to the subframe connectors. The plates were heated and bent to conform to the floor in front, and bent over the "frame" in the trunk above the shock mount area.
 

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I have several decent photos of a NHRA, IHRA legal cage in my Nova on my website if you want to see it. Just go to the Top Stock project section. I used chrome moly for this but the construction is the same as mild steel. RM
http://www.hotrodder.com/realmccoy/
 

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Make sure that you install the cage to NHRA specs.What I mean is the hoop needs to be 6 inches from the back of your head in a helmet,the door bars must pass through a point between your shoulder and your elbow.I think there are a few more,but you may get 'dinged' by the track officials for these things.
They should all be in the rule book.
Brandon
 

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67Chevelleguy said:
Real Macoy, I like what you did with the frame rails and I think I will do it but did it get in the way of the drivers seat, as far as mounting it? Is it NHRA legal?

thanks
wes
Wes, if you are referring to his subframe connectors, you gotta cut the floor for the weld-in connectors to fit. You can use bolt-in connectors and still weld them in, but they don't pass through the floor.



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That car is is legal to run 8.25 ETs or slower. I don't have any seats yet but see no reason why they won't fit. If you haven't installed a roll cage you do need to be cautious about what you do. There are very specific rules on design and tubing sizes you have to follow for it to get certified. These are SFI standards and not in the NHRA or IHRA rules books exactly. I ordered the specifications from SFI for all the different certifications so I could build legal stuff. I can't build a cage or chassis and it not pass or have someone get hurt in something I built due to something incorrect or illegal and live with that. The specs for a 8.25 chassis are 14 pages long so they are rather specific as to what can be done. Hope that helps. RM
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Real Macoy,

so you are saying that the subframe connectors and the frame/main hoop connectors have to follow certain NHRA guidlines? And do the front/rear subframes have the save dimensions, and they line up, so I can just weld a straight peice of rectangular tubing in?

thanks alot! Much appreciated! :D
-wes
 

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I'm saying the frame connectors need to be legal in size. Several sizes and types are legal for different certifications. The subframe and rear frame are not even with each other, they have different widths. For you the best deal maybe a kit. You can buy a frame connector and roll cage kit for your car. All you'd have to do is notch the tubes and weld the kit in. Hope that helps, RM
 

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67Chevelleguy said:
Real Macoy,

so you are saying that the subframe connectors and the frame/main hoop connectors have to follow certain NHRA guidlines? And do the front/rear subframes have the save dimensions, and they line up, so I can just weld a straight peice of rectangular tubing in?

thanks alot! Much appreciated! :D
-wes
well it is a straight piece of retangular tubing however it is angled inwards (I believe) as it goes from front to back so it will line up with the rear subframe which happens to be narrower than the front subframe. PLUS the floor boards will need to be notched so the subframe connectors will fit properly.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
:D First off, I really apperciate everyones help! You guys have been a great savours in a time where I am confused :D :D :D

For you guys who have bolt on subframe connectors, how did you connect the main hoop, and the front bar that runs across the door, to the subframe connectors? I might go the bolt-on connector route and make the roll bar strong and everything connected.
And the NHRA rules are to have a peice of 6"x6", does it matter where the bar is welded to on it?

thanks!
wes

More pics are kindly welcomed:beer:
 

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The 6X6 plate can be 1/8 thick and you want to be sort of centered but close is all that's needed. Look at my bars and most people run the main hoop to the rocker boxes then add the diagonal bars from the hoop to the connectors. If you do a 6 point it has to be 1 3/4 tubing .118 wall and if you do more then 6 points you can use 1 5/8 tubing with .118 wall. If you use the welded seam tubing buy the .134 wall because it can be as thin as .125 and still be in spec. If any of it is less than .118 it will not pass tech and be certified. Best of luck to you. RM
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)

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I bought a bender some years ago so I am not real familiar with the kits offered today. The last kit I did buy was an Alston kit and it was good and came with detailed instructions. I still like Alstons stuff and if I was going to but a kit I'd buy theirs. The C/E would be legal as long as you don't go too fast for that cage.
 

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67Chevelleguy said:
So if I buy this kit, It should fit together and weld right in and pass the NHRA rules?
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...925074+4294925234+4294865395+115&autoview=sku

thanks again and having patience with my questions!
-wes
Well, in theory, that's how it's supposed to work. But, you will have to do A LOT of trial fitting, grinding and cutting before you ever pick up the welder.



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8 PT Cage in a GEN 1

On a Gen 1, you cant weld the main hoop to the subframe connectors,would be too narrow.You have to form the supplied plates to bend up and capture the edge of your rocker plate,as well as the floor,than cut holes thru the floor to expose your sub frame connectors. than the smaller diagonals attach to your subframe connectors from the the intersection of your Hoop and its cross tube .Basicly just follow the directions,in my case ,they were Chassis Works.
 

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I bought a Jig A Joint notcher 15 or 16 yrs ago. Still have it and use it a good amount on various things. I paid alot for this thing but have seen them for less than $50. in some sale catalogs. They are probably not as good as this one but for a small job you can't really beat the simple design for fitting bars. They have some limitations on the angle they will cut and the bushings need replaced once in awhile but I'd recommend one if you plan to do any notching. Sure beats the saw, grinder and file method I use to use when I did my first few cages. RM
 
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