Wow, thought you fell off the face of the earth...OK, well maybe just Ohio69gofast said:I didn't like the main hoop because it curved inward at the bottom. I would have liked it to have gone straight down
Yeah...what he said. Make sure that when you are welding or grinding that none of the sparks come into contact with any of the glass, if they do then the glass will be ruined. Best to remove ALL of the interior and glass.....at least cover the glass with welding blankets if you dont want to take it out.Seattle_Mike said:In my opinion it's best to build or have one built from scratch. It's going to fit much better and you can make it like you want it. Even buying one takes a lot of fitting etc. I've heard Chassisworks makes a nice fitting kit but haven't had personal experience. Mine was built from scratch and it turned out very nice. You have to watch installing them in a car that's already finished too. I've had several friends who ended up with various "boo boos" from welding & grinding inside the car.
NIIN20 said:Definetly best to have one custom built to your car by a reputable shop. I've used some customers kit pieces and end up throwing most of it away and still being unhappy about the rest. I really steer away from using a customers supplied kit now and like to build them to fit the specific vehicle. When I get done building a cage for a car you cant fit your fingers around most of it, thats how well I fit mine.
That can really vary on the material. fit needed, and how many bars, etc., etc.. But A 6pt could be knocked out in a 4-5 hours on a decent car I would figure. I probably will have 40-80 hours in the Malibu I am doing right now. But its got alot of bells and whistles and is all moly. These are all just estimate's because I never charge by the hour, only by the job. I really dont keep track of my hours too much.akanovass said:how much time do you usually put into making it?
You will have to use .134 wall tubing if you are using electroweld tubing(welded seam). The electro weld tube has variances in the wall thickness due to manufacturing and can vary. Yes you also lose alittle in the OD of the bend. If you use DOM them you want to run I believe it is .125 wall to make up for the bending losses. Now in my opinion moly is the way to go all together. You can use material spot on for the rules. The bad thing I have found with mild steel is that its price is going up alot. DOM is even higher last I checked. If a guy has the access to a good TIG and the competent ability I would do it out of moly. Its not alot more money and myself and everyone I know prefers to use it.njciscool said:the problem with .120 wall stuff that i've heard is if sonic tested, your car will fail tech inspection, since the thickness of the walls varies somewhat in each run, and on the bends it gets thinner. maybe this isn't true with DOM
Ooops, thats right it was .120 wall DOM I used on the last MS cage I did.Real McCoy said:I have built 5 MS cages in the past 3 years using .120 DOM and they all certifed for NHRA. My car and another both are certified 7.50 plus ET which is all a MS chassis can be certified for. To go faster you must use moly. The NHRA tech inspector lives down the road so getting them checked is pretty easy for me. They do not check bends ever. Rules plainly state the tube must be .118 min. The seamed tube specs for .120 wall tube allows them to make it as thinner, I've seen .113 so it won't pass, that's why they use .134 wall which I've found to be at least .125. DOM tube has very rigid tolerances which is why it costs so much and I have yet to buy any .120 that was not .120. Check it before you use it but use a ball mic to do it. Moly is great and I just finished a 14 point moly cage in a Mustang, it will certify as well. The only problem with moly is fitting and welding it. It has to be tig welded and you can't fill gaps in the joints so you have to fit it right then you have to be able to weld it without overheating it which alot of folks can't do. MS can be wire welded and alot of loose gaps can be closed up doing that. RM