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Discussion Starter #1
Good day everyone;
Cheese here asking all readers what in your opinion is the best fitting weld in six point rollbar for first gen cars. I have a '63 that is going under the knife come the first of the year and was wondering what is the best option? I'm looking for a very close fit in the main hoop behind the front seat. The rear bars will run over the rear seat and into the package tray so I can still use the rear seat. The forward bars should clear the arm rests also. :confused: Any input would be greatly appreciated. Already bought some DSE offset spring hangers and have my wheel tire combo so I'm just about ready to start cutting on the car. Just moved in so I have to finish my airline in the garage first, wanna be done with garage set-up by 12/31 so I can start the new year off right by working on the car.
Thanks for any response, Cheese.:rolleyes:
 

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From the ones i've seen, I like the alston and Morrison kits. I dont know about clearing the armrests though. I made my own cause i wanted it as close to the body as possible and i had to remove the armrests. You can always make the side bars removeable though.
 

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A couple of points from other's feedback and my own experiences. Don't put a cage in a car and try to use the back seat. First of all it's very dangerous for anyone in the backseat if there's an accident. If it's a street car it probably doesn't need a cage in the first place. It kills resale value of a car when you go to sell it unless it's a cert'd cage and you are selling it to a racer. If you try to install a cage with any of the interior or windows in it, there's a good chance one or both will end up damaged by the time it's done. (seen it many times)

If you must have a cage, the one's the fit the best are built from scratch. It's much easier than trying to make someone else's parts fit YOUR car. I'm not saying kits don't work, just that the tightest fitting, best appearing cages are built from scratch. It's not that much more work.

As for kits, I'm a big proponent of Chassisworks. I used both their front and rear clips in my 66 but the cage was built to the car. I have heard however that their roll cage kits fit well. Any kit is going to take some tweaking, cutting, grinding, welding etc. If you have fab shops in your area that build chassis, I'd check them out and then make your decision. Whatever route you go, good luck and have fun with your project!
 

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Very well put Mike. I am having a new 10 point put in and the way I want it run it's all cutsom. It has to tuck tight um in the car and close to the body on the sides.

I learned alot speaking with the guy who is installing mine. He likes what I want to do and told me about the dangers of a losse fitting cage. It allow the impact to really come in and will throw the cra round because the cage allows the body to come in to much on impact.

My car does not have a back seat for reasons as you said and the fact I want safty and racing the first use. This is why we have the 62, fun little street car to drive around.

My car will cert to 8.50 when done but it's only for sale at my estate sale and not a day before :) My late brother found me my car and it's with me for life.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for all the input!
I had a full tub 65 that just was not friendly noise wise on the street(too much nvh), so i want to stay with a mostly stock interior. I don't have a family so nobody will be riding in the back seat. The e.t. will hopefully be in the 11.00 second range so the car won't be that fast, just a strong street car. I really liked the stiffness of my '65 that's why I want to run a 6 pt bar. The chassisworks stuff is nice i agree but his prices aren't. Has anybody had any luck with a Comp. Engineering or a S&W roll bar set-up? As far as a shop working on my car I like to do all my own work. Thanks for any response.
Cheese:D
 

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Cheese- welcome to the site!
I"ve had the pleasure of installing most of the big names 'cage kits, as well as making my own for a couple. To be honest, they ALL needed some minor tweaks in one area or another. Right now, I"d say the biggest issue is how much that darned shipping cost's??? To me, it has alot to do with the car. They really are all a bit different, as they traveled down that good 'ol assembly line. I"ve also had the displeasure of removing 'cages from customers cars. I can honestly say if you do not have a REAL need for them, don't put them in. You can achieve incredible strength and rigidity through the use of a good set of frame stiffeners for our first and second generation Novas.
Thats the first I've heard about having a cage installed to far inward of the vehicle, but it does make sense. You really have to weigh the use of the car . Good luck with your decision.

Dale
 

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Here's a S&Wkit I put in a 63. As far as the arm rest go you'll have to put a bend to go under them I think or come up with some other type of rest. I also had to put a little more bend in the rear bars to get them closer to the roof.




 

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really the best way to get the cage to fit the way you want is to build it from scratch. If you do it yourself you're gonna need some equipment. check out this cage done by Mike Bolla at Enterprise Motorsports in Newark, CA

http://www.norcal1320.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18183&page=6

car is owned by a guy named eric, not sure if he's a member here. Cage was all custom bent chromoly NHRA certed to 8.50, all tig welded.

I had a 8pt cage put in my car back in '88, done by magnum force fabrication. It was an alston kit and it acutally fit pretty good. I guess it all depends on the fabricator. My new cage I did with the help and expertise of my friend Len Mullin.
 
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