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Discussion Starter #1
well i am rethinking my build and would like some input i currently have a 350 in the car and a bare 400 on a stand i am looking for what isnt gonna put a huge dent in the pocket and will give me power i want i have 3 ideas.
1 the original plan. i wasgonna bore the 350 out to a 355 i have a set of vortec heads i was gnna have some work done to them and have the 355 with the stock crank new pistons have an agressive cam the vortec heads
2 use the same heads i have do the agressive cam but bore it and stroke it to a 383
3 use the vortec heads and build the 400 this will be the most cstly cause i will have to start from scratch

what kind of power might i be looking at with all 3?

thanks daniel
 

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Discussion Starter #2
oh i just thought the rest of the drive train specs i will have a th350 with manual valve body and the rear ends an auburn with 4.11 gears
 

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Here's what it looks like to me.

Number 1 has a rotating assembly, number 2 & 3 don't. The cost of machine work to the current rotating assembly would offset the cost of buying a new rotating assembly.

Other than that, they all need the same amount of parts, and machine work.

Number 1 will be slightly cheaper.

Number 3 (my choice) will make the most power for the money and still be dependable as long as you keep the build mild to moderate. All this assuming the block is in good shape and usable.

What are your goals and budget. Make a decision and stick with it. Budgets get blown to hell when you start changing your mind.
 

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How about a 377.. Put the 350 crank in the bottom of the 400 block?? Remember the Block and the pistons go together and the crank and the rods. So if you are building a 377 you use the 400 block and 400 pistons and the 350 crank and bearing spacers and the 350 rods.. and the same with a 383 350 block and pistons and 400 crank turned down .200 and rods. Cheap way of building a stroker..


well i am rethinking my build and would like some input i currently have a 350 in the car and a bare 400 on a stand i am looking for what isnt gonna put a huge dent in the pocket and will give me power i want i have 3 ideas.
1 the original plan. i wasgonna bore the 350 out to a 355 i have a set of vortec heads i was gnna have some work done to them and have the 355 with the stock crank new pistons have an agressive cam the vortec heads
2 use the same heads i have do the agressive cam but bore it and stroke it to a 383
3 use the vortec heads and build the 400 this will be the most cstly cause i will have to start from scratch

what kind of power might i be looking at with all 3?

thanks daniel
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Here's what it looks like to me.

Number 1 has a rotating assembly, number 2 & 3 don't. The cost of machine work to the current rotating assembly would offset the cost of buying a new rotating assembly.

Other than that, they all need the same amount of parts, and machine work.

Number 1 will be slightly cheaper.

Number 3 (my choice) will make the most power for the money and still be dependable as long as you keep the build mild to moderate. All this assuming the block is in good shape and usable.

What are your goals and budget. Make a decision and stick with it. Budgets get blown to hell when you start changing your mind.
As far as budget goes I'm saving up now for it I have been looking at machine shops most ogf them its about 6-700 around. Here so I want to have the short block done for around 2000-2500 every thing eles I have like acessories heads intake and carb
 

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Discussion Starter #6
How about a 377.. Put the 350 crank in the bottom of the 400 block?? Remember the Block and the pistons go together and the crank and the rods. So if you are building a 377 you use the 400 block and 400 pistons and the 350 crank and bearing spacers and the 350 rods.. and the same with a 383 350 block and pistons and 400 crank turned down .200 and rods. Cheap way of building a stroker..
This idea I like cause it will cut the costs cause I can use my crank what kind of power do 377 make I don't hear a lot about them I have to look into this
 

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The #1 combo is a no brainer. but using the 400 block and 350 rods and crank would be a cool build and cost effective, then you can utilize all your parts to run well with smaller cubes. Just dont forget the steam holes.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The #1 combo is a no brainer. but using the 400 block and 350 rods and crank would be a cool build and cost effective, then you can utilize all your parts to run well with smaller cubes. Just dont forget the steam holes.
The thing about the number 1 plan is it will make the least amount of power and will only be like 2-400 cheaper I am kinda aiming for the 400-450 hp number and I want to keep it decently priced
 

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My $0.02: Build a solid 400 shortblock foundation, use your current top end. Drive the crap out of it. Upgrade the top end some other year when you save up for it.
 

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X2

My $0.02: Build a solid 400 shortblock foundation, use your current top end. Drive the crap out of it. Upgrade the top end some other year when you save up for it.
I agree with Patman.
If you go here, you'll see this is what I'm planning
http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=128794

While not optimum for the 400, there still is no substitute for another 50 cubes! Go with the cubic inches and balance out the combo later.
 

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I too would build the Vortec headed 400. It would be one hell-of-a performer!! Probably surprise the hell out of a lot of people!!
 

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400 all the way. Be patient (I'm the worst for patience:rolleyes:) Like Mike said, 50 extra cubes.... It might take a little longer to make it all happen but well worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok I thin I will build the 400 so is going witht the 350 crank in it a good idea? Also I thought about getting the heads worked and getting the cam and put them in the 350 now for a little hp boost till I can save the couple thousand up and re use them when I get the bottom end in the 400? And finally when looking at it I thought about boring the 400 .10 over just to clean it up but my friend said after I bore it sleave it down to the standered bore that seams good but if I left it I would have more cubes
 

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Finding .010 over pistons may be a problem. Easier to bore the block ..020 or .030" and buy off the shelf pistons. You can find a stock 400 cast crank and save some money over buying an aftermarket crank. You can reuse the 350 rods too. BUT heres the thing: nowadays you can buy a new 400 crank kit for the cost of remachining the rods and crank. You will need a 400 specific flexplate and balancer too. Sounds like you got everything to do the 377 but again the cost the remachine the crank and rods plus balancing. You're gonna have to sit down and figure out how much the machine shop is gonna charge to recon your crank and rods, and replace the rod bolts with ARP bolts too. Just remember you cannot beat the torque that a 400 will make, especially for the street. easily conceivable. Just my .02 I'd build the 400 with the vortec heads, sell off the 350 stuff. I'd run either the Isky mega 280 or the lunati version, air gap intake, 750 holley and off you go!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Finding .010 over pistons may be a problem. Easier to bore the block ..020 or .030" and buy off the shelf pistons. You can find a stock 400 cast crank and save some money over buying an aftermarket crank. You can reuse the 350 rods too. BUT heres the thing: nowadays you can buy a new 400 crank kit for the cost of remachining the rods and crank. You will need a 400 specific flexplate and balancer too. Sounds like you got everything to do the 377 but again the cost the remachine the crank and rods plus balancing. You're gonna have to sit down and figure out how much the machine shop is gonna charge to recon your crank and rods, and replace the rod bolts with ARP bolts too. Just remember you cannot beat the torque that a 400 will make, especially for the street. easily conceivable. Just my .02 I'd build the 400 with the vortec heads, sell off the 350 stuff. I'd run either the Isky mega 280 or the lunati version, air gap intake, 750 holley and off you go!!!!
would a 650 dp carb be bad cause i just bought one of those?
 

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A 650DP carb will work fine on a street/strip 400. A 750, 850, 950hp would all work better if you're going to spin it high.
 
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