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Discussion Starter #1
I sent a cam recommendation request to CompCams yesterday, here's what I got back. It sounds interesting, other than the fact that they recommend a cam needing a 3000+ stall, when I asked for one that would keep me at my current 2500.

Anyone have any thoughts on whether this'd work OK or should I go secret squirrel instead??

Cam Spec Card Inquiry
PART NO. 08-432-8
01 INTAKE MASTER 3315S
02 EXHAUST MASTER 3316S
03 ENGINE CS XR282HR-10
04 GRIND NUMBER CS XR282HR-10
INT EXH
05 HYDRAULIC Y/N YES 14 DUR @.050 230 236
INTAKE EXHAUST 15 LOBE LIFT .3400 .3470
06 VALVE ADJUSTMENT HYD HYD 16 ROCKER RATIO .00
.00
07 MAX GROSS VALVE LIFT .510 .520
08 DUR @ .006 TAPPET LIFT 282 288 17 LOBE SEPARATI 110.0
18 ADVANCE 4
09 VALVE TIMING OPEN CLOSE 19 VALVE SPRINGS 986-16
@ .006 10 INT 35 67
11 EXH 78 30 DATE SETUP / /
12 THESE SPECS ARE FOR CAM(S) INSTALLED
@ 106.0 INTAKE CENTERLINE



Here are the specs I sent:

> VEHICLE INFORMATION
> Make: Chevrolet Model: Chevy II Year: 1967
> Must Pass Emission Standards?
> Vehicle Weight: 3100 Axle Ratio: 3.55
> Transmission Type: automatic Tire Height: 26.4"
> Torque Converter Stall Speed: 2500
>
> _____
>
> COMPUTER CONTROLLED VEHICLES
> Vehicle Computer Type? None
> Speed Density Sensor: No
> Mass Air Sensor: No
>
> _____
>
> ENGINE INFORMATION
> Engine Block Type: Chevrolet
> Engine Size: 355 How Many Cylinders: 8
> Bore: 4.030 Stroke: stock Compression Ratio: 9.4:1
> Piston Type: Forged Connecting Rod Type: OEM
> Intake Manifold Type: RPM Air Gap
> Cylinder Head(s) Year: OEM Vortec, supporting .510 lift Head
Part
> Number: 906
> Head Runner Volume: 170CC Ported Heads: No
> Intake Valve Size: 1.94 Exhaust Valve Size:
> Rocker Arm Type: Stock Rocker Arm Ratio: 1.5
> Exhaust Header(s): Yes
> Exhaust Type:
> Dual
> Exhaust Pipe Size: 2.5
> RPM Range: 1500 to 5800
> Nitrous Oxide: No
>
> _____
>
> FUEL DELIVERY
> Fuel Type: Premium Gas Fuel Octane Rating: 93
>
> Carburetor: Yes Carburetor Size: 750
> Port Injection: No
> Electronic Fuel Injection: No Oversize Injectors: No
>
> _____
>
> AIR DELIVERY
> Air Filter: Performance
> Ram Air: No
> Turbocharger: No Supercharger: No
>
> _____
>
> APPLICATION SPECIFICS
>
> How Will This Engine Be Used?
> Street Strip
> Class: Street/Heavy
>
> _____
>
> What Type Of Cam Do You Want?
> Hydraulic Roller
>
> _____
>
> What Type Camshaft Are You Currently Using?
> Brand: GM
> Part Number: ZZ4
> Specs: Camshaft: Hydraulic roller tappet (#10185071) Valve Lift
> (Intake/Exhaust): .474"/.510" Duration (Intake/Exhaust): 208?/221? @
.050"
> tappet lift
>
> _____
>
> Considering The Current Performance Of Your Vehicle, Do You Want:
> More Torque? Yes
> More RPM? No
> Is Idling Speed Important? Yes
 

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I'm a believer in custom-ground cams myself. Check my signature for CamMotion's website. The website is very lacking, but their quality is not!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
DriveWFO said:
I'm a believer in custom-ground cams myself. Check my signature for CamMotion's website. The website is very lacking, but their quality is not!
Cool, I think I'll take advantage of their cam recommendation service for another view of what would work best in my car.
 

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If you look at your combo ,you will see your limited !! i think they gave a good recommendation, you cant go with more lift because your heads, you cant go any nastier on the lobe cnter because your worried about idle quality,and you cant go much more on duration because your stall .The 2500 stall will work barely though!! TOUGH CALL ,GOOD LUCK .
 

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Discussion Starter #5
jason snyder said:
If you look at your combo ,you will see your limited !! i think they gave a good recommendation, you cant go with more lift because your heads, you cant go any nastier on the lobe cnter because your worried about idle quality,and you cant go much more on duration because your stall .The 2500 stall will work barely though!! TOUGH CALL ,GOOD LUCK .
Supposedly, the spring/retainer kit installed on my heads will support .600 lift, but I don't trust it any more than the current .510. Before I install a cam with any more lift, which is probably wasted on Vortecs anyway due to decreasing flow potential above that lift, the heads will come off to be machined to support a proper set of springs, retainers, rockers, and studs.

I'd like to retain the car's streetability and manners to some extent, which is why I am keeping the 2500RPM stall constraint. If that needs to slide in order to meet the other requirements, it could be done though.

I'm not concerned about idle "quality", idle speed is more of a concern for streetability. I'd prefer to not have to idle above 1000rpm cruising in town just to keep the beast running. :)

Thanks for the input. This is why I keep coming around.
 

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NovatoriusRex said:
I'd like to retain the car's streetability and manners to some extent, which is why I am keeping the 2500RPM stall constraint. If that needs to slide in order to meet the other requirements, it could be done though.
I was worried about driveability when I went from a stock converter to a 3000 Stall Speed. But I feel no difference whatsoever just tooling around with the higher stall speed. I know that my RPM's are little higer at cruising speed, but not enough to even worry about. So, if money is not the objection, but steetability is, then I don't think you should be worried about a higher stall speed.
 

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idling in town

i am currently running a .510 lift cam on my chevelle with a 3000 TCI street converter and drive it everyday. it will cruise just fine, yet when i get to the strip, i can leave the line a little harder. my chevelle weighs in at a hefty 3700lbs. WITH OUT OR THE BACK SEAT!!!:eek: anyway, everything they send u is the same as i am running now and i do enjoy it, it has a little bit of lope to it, but nothing where i cant keep it idling at 800 RPM. anyway, best of luck, i dont remember who i got the cam through, i can pull out cam card later and see.
 

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The Comp hydraulic rollers have a cast core which I don't like. I run a cam with the same spec as the XR282HR. It's a good cam with a wide power band. Mine idles at 800 rpm with about 10" of vacuum. My power brakes work fine without a vacuum can. I bought the cam off ebay from an outfit called Willhoite Cam grinding. Here's the link:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SB-C...33614QQitemZ8070720337QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
 

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Discussion Starter #9
loneagle said:
The Comp hydraulic rollers have a cast core which I don't like. I run a cam with the same spec as the XR282HR.
Wow, thanks for that heads up. I hadn't even considered the metal stock of the cam yet. I'd prefer not to have to replace distributor gears or fuel pump pushrods because they're not using billet stock to grind the cam with.

I'll have to add that to my future cam requests from other grinders.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
loneagle said:
Also check with Delta camshaft grinding in Tacoma. I hear they do good work and their rollers use a pressed on distributor gear. http://www.deltacam.com/

Here's another in the area: http://www.oregoncamshaft.com/
Cool, I didn't know we had any "local" cam grinders in these parts. Oregon Camshaft is looking promising, especially since I can drive over and talk with someone face to face and even take the car over with me. :)

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I got my recommendation from the Secret Squirrel folks and I'm a bit unsure about their recommendation:

RECOMMENDATION
Grind Number X2161-2122-12+4
Duration (intake/exaust) 214/217
Lift (intake/exaust) 498/494
Lobe Center Separation 112
Intake Centerline 108

This seems to be not too much different from the ZZ4 cam I'm looking to replace and maybe even a step backwards. The intake duration is only 6* more than I have now, and the exhaust is 4* less.

Am I missing something here or is this result hampered by my constraints in the original request? :confused:
 

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NovatoriusRex said:
I got my recommendation from the Secret Squirrel folks and I'm a bit unsure about their recommendation:

RECOMMENDATION
Grind Number X2161-2122-12+4
Duration (intake/exaust) 214/217
Lift (intake/exaust) 498/494
Lobe Center Separation 112
Intake Centerline 108

This seems to be not too much different from the ZZ4 cam I'm looking to replace and maybe even a step backwards. The intake duration is only 6* more than I have now, and the exhaust is 4* less.

Am I missing something here or is this result hampered by my constraints in the original request? :confused:

ahhh...I see whats going on here....Dave spoke to them before you spoke to them and told them to screw with ya and not to give you one of the "Good" grinds....wouldnt want to let the cat...errr I mean squirrel out of the bag eh?

He has enough to worry about with the blue light special...he doesnt want to have to worry about you west coasters too:)
 

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NovatoriusRex said:
I got my recommendation from the Secret Squirrel folks and I'm a bit unsure about their recommendation:

RECOMMENDATION
Grind Number X2161-2122-12+4
Duration (intake/exaust) 214/217
Lift (intake/exaust) 498/494
Lobe Center Separation 112
Intake Centerline 108

This seems to be not too much different from the ZZ4 cam I'm looking to replace and maybe even a step backwards. The intake duration is only 6* more than I have now, and the exhaust is 4* less.

Am I missing something here or is this result hampered by my constraints in the original request? :confused:
Rex, I'll give ya a tip since yer running the Vortec heads as well. Yer gonna want a 10* duration difference between intake & exhaust (either more exhaust or less intake depending on how you look at it):shh: The stock exhaust ports are WEAK on our heads and the added duration helps:shh:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
DriveWFO said:
Rex, I'll give ya a tip since yer running the Vortec heads as well. Yer gonna want a 10* duration difference between intake & exhaust.:shh:
Thanks for the tip. Doesn't that recommended profile seem kinda "small", especially when compared to what CompCams recommended. I really don't think I'm overcammed today and going this way would seem like a step backwards.
 

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NovatoriusRex said:
Thanks for the tip. Doesn't that recommended profile seem kinda "small", especially when compared to what CompCams recommended. I really don't think I'm overcammed today and going this way would seem like a step backwards.
Did you talk directly to Danny? I'm running a hydraulic tappet cam, so I don't know for sure how the hydraulic roller effects the parameters.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
DriveWFO said:
Did you talk directly to Danny? I'm running a hydraulic tappet cam, so I don't know for sure how the hydraulic roller effects the parameters.
I submitted an online request. I think I'll have to call and talk to an actual person in order to get a really good recommendation I think.
 

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I looked a at few sources and with the compression and diff gearing you have you really would not want anything more than about 230ish degrees of duration and likely less than that as 230 would be at the high end of the chart so to speak...:)

unless of course your looking for a ratty idle :rolleyes:and then you would want about 245 degrees of duration @ .050":D
 
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