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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 73 2-door nova that's knocking. The engine is a recently rebuilt (within the past year, less than 500 miles on the engine) 86 corvette engine.

Is it possible to replace the crank and rod bearings without removing the engine or transmission? Anything I should know before trying to do this?

I know it's not the best way to deal with the problem but it's a project car that'll be rarely driven, and I can't afford a new engine at the moment.
 

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you can replace all the bearings without pulling the engine, but if you find a problem with the crank you'll have have to pull it anyway to remove the crank.
 

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you can replace all the bearings without pulling the engine, but if you find a problem with the crank you'll have have to pull it anyway to remove the crank.
its a pain in the butt, just pull it and stick it on a stand. something caused you to lose the bearings and just replacing them aint gonna cure your problem
 

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its a pain in the butt, just pull it and stick it on a stand. something caused you to lose the bearings and just replacing them aint gonna cure your problem
A ton of work just to have another failure. Do it right and pull the engine, you'll be glad you did.
 

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Yes it can be done but getting the upper crank bearing halves out can be a real pita. There is a trick or two around to help you do that. However like has been said already pulling the motor and replacing them on a stand is the better option. Another advantage is that it will allow a much better inspection of your rotating assembly. PLUS it will also allow you a better opportunity to clean out the metal that is potentially in the motor.
 

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Crank may be worn and needing machined. Block may need line honed, piston rod may need to be resized.

Way easier to pull the motor out and repair.
 

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Shoottt by time you pull motor mount bolts ,dist, and jack the motor up and put the crank in the right position to let the pan come off there's not much left but tranny bolts and convertor and a cherry picker !!!

Oh yea the radiator and the hood but still
 

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If the motor just has 500 miles on a rebuild I would pull it because it sounds like theirs a problem with crank or rods? I would just pull it and see what going on
 

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I did that in my car when I first got it. Layed on my back in the driveway for a couple of nights pulling the pan and replacing the rod and main bearings to fix a knocking sound. The swap was successful, but that didn't fix the knock...turned out the converter-to-flexplate bolts were loose...
 

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I've done it, it's not really that bad. I would have to agree with the others, better to pull the motor. With only 500 miles on it, there's something way wrong.

Now if it had 100k miles, with a little noisy, low oil pressure and you wanted to limp it along another year or two, I'd go for the bearings.
 

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I did that in my car when I first got it. Layed on my back in the driveway for a couple of nights pulling the pan and replacing the rod and main bearings to fix a knocking sound. The swap was successful, but that didn't fix the knock...turned out the converter-to-flexplate bolts were loose...
First Nova I had in 1977 and it was my first car ever had the same problem. One bolt left loose and the other two gone, I got lucky and just replaced and tightened the converter bolts.
 

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If it was rebuilt in the past year and only has 500 miles on it, why not bring it back to whoever built it in the first place? Unless you didn't get a warranty with it. Dave
 

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It'll take longer to do it that way than just to pull the engine and flip it upside down on the stand.

I've done it from underneath a few times, not worth it at all. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
First Nova I had in 1977 and it was my first car ever had the same problem. One bolt left loose and the other two gone, I got lucky and just replaced and tightened the converter bolts.
What's the best/easiest way for me to check if the flexplate is tight?

I recently bought the car from a woman about 3 months. Her husband had the engine rebuilt last April 2014 and he had a heart attack and died a month later in may. The car sat on the street for a year before I bought it. There's no way for me to be certain if it was in fact rebuilt, but based on all the new components and the way it's setup lead me to believe it was.

Seems to me like the guy wanted to race it, (huge cam, long tube headers, efans, new msd ignition system, 4.10s, rebuilt trans with a shiftkit, mallory dist, slicks, holley 650 carb, a/c has been removed and the engine isn't stock). But I could be wrong.

If I had a garage this wouldn't even be a question but because I'm working on a slab of concrete in my backyard pulling the engine isn't ideal, but I may end up doing it anyway.
 

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What's the best/easiest way for me to check if the flexplate is tight?
Drive up on ramps and crawl under the car. You should easily be able to inspect the torque converter bolts. However, if the bolts that retain the flexplate to the crank are loose, you have more work ahead of ya!
 

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What's the best/easiest way for me to check if the flexplate is tight?

Drive up on ramps and crawl under the car. You should easily be able to inspect the torque converter bolts. However, if the bolts that retain the flexplate to the crank are loose, you have more work ahead of ya!
Just see if you can move or rock the flexplate back and forth. If it's loose you will need to slide the transmission back to access those bolts.

Converter bolts as menioned above are easy to access from the bottom of the car.

As far as pulling the engine on a 3rd gen, it is easiest to pull engine and tranny together.
 
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