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Discussion Starter #1
Where are you guys buying your driveshafts from? I need a replacement drive shaft for my '67. It's 52 in long center to center. I can't seem to find anything at that length on summit except for one fast shaft steel replacement drive shaft which I suppose will be fine. I was thinking about getting an aluminum one but I can't seem to find one anywhere at that length. Do you normally get them special ordered and cut the fit?
 

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Where are you guys buying your driveshafts from? I need a replacement drive shaft for my '67. It's 52 in long center to center. I can't seem to find anything at that length on summit except for one fast shaft steel replacement drive shaft which I suppose will be fine. I was thinking about getting an aluminum one but I can't seem to find one anywhere at that length. Do you normally get them special ordered and cut the fit?
Look for a local driveline company and they can make you one. If you still have the old one they can copy it or you can give them the dimensions for what you need.
 

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Denny's Driveshaft, Inland Empire Driveline, Strange Engineering, Mark Williams, DynoTech, Precision Shaft Technologies(PST), Performance Engineering(PEM) and there are some others in various parts of the country I'm not familiar with.

Watch out at a lot of your local driveline places, most cannot do a true high speed shaft. do your homework on quality if you do chose to use a local place, get some feedback from others local to you who have used them.

The FastShaft stuff is not good for road use....they are made for light racecars.....the 2.5" is way too small diameter to handle the load of a typical street car, and certainly not any strip use.
Minimum size for a steel shaft at 52" will be 3" tube, aluminum will be 3.5"
 

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Where are you guys buying your driveshafts from? I need a replacement drive shaft for my '67. It's 52 in long center to center. I can't seem to find anything at that length on summit except for one fast shaft steel replacement drive shaft which I suppose will be fine. I was thinking about getting an aluminum one but I can't seem to find one anywhere at that length. Do you normally get them special ordered and cut the fit?
i don't know were in the states your at. but the shaft in my 66 was made by D & R driveline in jenison michigan 616-667-1308.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Im surprised that summit doesn't carry a 52-in length drive shaft. I assumed it would be a pretty common length.

I'm not sure if any local shops are open. Most likely I'll reach out to one of those companies you mentioned and just have them make me one.

Thank you very much for all that information. I'm glad I reached out cause I was about to buy the fastshaft. I thought 2.5 inch was a bit small...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I talked to someone over at PST. Think I'll go with them as they seem to be the most reasonable. I don't need anything crazy. More or less a stock replacement.

Although I have the original drive shaft in front of me they still want me to measure from the surface of the tail shaft to the face of the yoke on the differential, which totally makes sense. Just sucks cause the car has been on jack stands for months and I wasn't quite ready to bring her down yet.

Anywho... It's $299 for a 3" steel shaft, balanced with u-joints and a slip yoke. 3 1/2" is like another $30 but I don't think I need that... although what's $30?? Shipping will be less than $50. They're based out of Clearwater Florida and I'm here around the Philly area so not bad. Again very reasonable for what I need.

Thanks again for the info!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Right? Seems like a no brainier. Not sure clearance is going to be an issue though. Anyone else running a 3 1/2 in a 2nd gen??
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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I would also go with the 3.5" driveshaft if there is enough clearance around the driveshaft tunnel.
PST's driveshaft prices do seem very reasonable.... and since you are just using your car for mostly cruising (no serious HP/Torque + aggressive starts from a dead stop), you should be fine.

But, when I was researching driveshafts last year (when I needed a new driveshaft for my Nova),
I found out that some of the big name companies... PST included, were installing Chinese made slip yokes, u-joints, and weld ends onto their "lower price point" driveshafts. I believe the Chinese slip yokes could be identified by the letters CAM cast into them. You could upgrade to "Spicer"... or Forged components if desired.

I had read about some of the Chinese slip yokes twisting/breaking in cars with less HP/Torque then mine, so I decided to play it safe and purchased a 3.5" Strange Engineering chrome moly driveshaft with 1350 forged chrome moly weld ends and a 1350 forged chrome moly slip yoke (included Spicer 1350 HD U-joints). I had already installed a 1350 forged chrome moly pinion yoke when I rebuilt my 12 bolt rear.
Sure... I paid more $$$ for my driveshaft then the PST price and it is probably overkill for my current needs, but it was worth it to me for my "piece of mind"... especially since I intend to do some drag racing with my car.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I hear you. I just rebuilt my 12 bolt as well. I was going to install a new pinion yoke but decided to hold off. Even if I had I probably would have ended up installing a 1310 since I really didn't know much about the other sizes until now. I'm guessing now that the crush sleeve is crushed, it's probably too late to install a bigger yoke such as a 1350. I usually go overkill as well for that same reason.
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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I'm guessing now that the crush sleeve is crushed, it's probably too late to install a bigger yoke such as a 1350.
You can still install a 1350 pinion yoke... if desired.
People replace pinion seals all the time without having to install a new crush sleeve + rebuild the rear. IIRC, it take about 200-250 ft/lbs of torque to crush the crush sleeve. If you remove the pinion nut and install a new pinion yoke, you would re-torque the pinion nut to about 150 ft/lbs of torque (... with a good dose of thread locker on the pinion threads) The bearing preload should be exactly the same as it was before.

If you go this route, be sure to also put a little RTV silicon sealant around the pinion yoke splines (but NOT on the pinion splines) to help keep the pinion from leaking gear lube thru the splines.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I like the sound of that. Thank you very much. I just may do that.

Initial torque was a son of a gun. I had the rear out of the car. You should have seen the massive bar I had on the torque wrench just to get the right amount of leverage. Hell I'll show ya ;) I'm sure most have been there done that. Thanks again!
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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I remember that I used my hydraulic floor jack's pumping arm inserted over the end of a 2 foot breaker bar to compress the crush sleeve... that was a workout!

This last time around rebuilding the 12 bolt, I used a Ratech pinion spacer instead of the crush sleeve.
Once you determine the correct shims needed for the desired pinion bearing preload, the Ratech spacer was much easier to use ... and if I ever needed to replace a pinion seal, that would also be an easier process with the spacer (no fears of over compressing the crush sleeve).

Another area to check is the pinion seal that is used. To my knowledge, the only pinion seals that are sold in most auto parts stores for the chevy 12 bolt passenger car differential is the chevy 12 bolt truck pinion seal. The truck pinion seal sits deeper within the pinion housing of the differential when installed. Sometimes the truck seal will interfere with the outer pinion bearing due to the truck seal's depth. This interference could cause the pinion seal to leak.

A way around this possible issue is to place a 1/16"- 1/8" spacer between the pinion seal and the end of the differential housing during the installation of the seal.
I used a "split" header collector gasket as a shim and it worked great.
Pinion Seal+Spacer B.jpg

Leave the shim in place while you install the pinion seal.... and when you feel the pinion seal is fully seated against the shim, remove the shim.

I also put a little RTV around the outside of the pinion seal to to help stop potential leaks.
Installed 12 Bolt Truck Seal.jpg


Now... there is a way around having to shim out the pinion seal by using a very specific 12 bolt pinion seal. The other pinion seal is the Ratech #6109 pinion seal.
The Ratech 12 bolt pinion seal is definitely shorter then the "truck" seal and would install without having to shim it out from the housing. The Ratech pinion seal would install flush up against the differential housing.

As shown in the photos below, the Ratech 6109 pinion seal (BLUE Seal) is shorter than the truck 12 bolt seal (GREEN Seal) and the seal portion of the Ratech 6109 pinion seal also sits higher in the housing than the truck 12 bolt seal.
Seal Photo #2.jpg

Seal Photo #4.jpg

If I had to do it over again, I would just install the Ratech 6109 pinion seal and not worry about spacing the shim out from the differential housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Damn. Yes i have heard of this. Cool of you to provide that info. I would definitely go that route for sure the next time...which may come sooner than expected.
 

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Danny's Drive Shaft built mine. 3" heavy duty. Fit perfect, you have to fill out extensive order form with numerous measurements, but that's why it fit perfect! Great product.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Just wanted to let everyone know that I got my drive shaft from PST. Everything looks great. I did end up going with the 3 1/2" and I even had them do 1350 u joints up front for the slip yoke and a 1350 to 1310 combo u joint in the rear. This way if I want to upgrade my pinion yoke to a 1350 at a later date I'll just have to slap in a new u-joint. Clearence looks good but I have not run the car yet. Still got some other unrelated things to sort out before she's ready.

The turnaround time was around a week and at that price you can't beat it especially for a street-driven car that may or may not run down the track at some point or another.
 

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Where are you guys buying your driveshafts from? I need a replacement drive shaft for my '67. It's 52 in long center to center. I can't seem to find anything at that length on summit except for one fast shaft steel replacement drive shaft which I suppose will be fine. I was thinking about getting an aluminum one but I can't seem to find one anywhere at that length. Do you normally get them special ordered and cut the fit?
Most large cities have driveline shop. Just be sure measuments accurate. Costs as much to do it over. I Know.
 

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I went with a PST Steel 3 1/2 1350 as well for my 67 Nova. Great shaft for the money! Strange slip yoke and rear yoke with 1350 U joints. Good luck with it!

Dave
67 Nova Boy
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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67NovaSS, Thanks for the update.
Sounds like you now have a driveshaft that will also handle potential future upgrades.
 
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